4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

LCA mystery?

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Old 02-16-2016, 06:42 PM
  #11  
school boy
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Let us know man. I actually plan on doing this later myself.
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Old 02-16-2016, 11:39 PM
  #12  
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I will post a pic tomorrow. I have the passenger side done. I'm not completely happy. But there are in there. Btw you can't press them from the inside due to the sleeve, it would cut thru the flange side. It appears the a-arm sits towards the back a bit. Maybe after driving it a while it may center up. I just don't like the fact that I had to move the front bushing out almost 1/2" to fit. As of now on the front bushing (non flange side) has only about 1/8" of poly showing
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Old 02-17-2016, 09:59 AM
  #13  
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they are free floating , so guess this is what they are supposed to look like
look in by photos under 03 project to see the bigger pic
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:12 PM
  #14  
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where is "03 project" located?
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:34 PM
  #15  
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Click on my user name and it will take u to my page , on the right side you will see my photo albums. If your on your phone you will have to click on full site. The best way to see the pics is on CPU
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:06 PM
  #16  
WJL
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You shouldn't have to drive the car to center anything in fact don't drive the car until you get it figured out

Google mustang control arms and start comparing

Youtube has vids

Last edited by WJL; 02-17-2016 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:24 PM
  #17  
67STANGX2
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Originally Posted by school boy
After looking, I think you bought the early style only bushings. Heres the ones you need:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Fr...2-04-P410.aspx
well, after battling this. Ive talked to tech guys from different companies. They all agree that the 2 different types of bushing are not explained in fully.
So I what gathered , if you have hydro bushings; remove the cage w/ the bushing ( and do not use the cage ) you then need to purchase the 6-217-bl, not the 6-207-bl. the main difference between the 2 is the new hydro bushing has a thicker flange that is notched ( so it doesn't cut into the sleeve). when you remove the "cage" you are also removing the smooth surface. if you use the 207 your a-arm will NOT be center giving it too much forward to rear movement. NOT GOOD!! you also do NOT need to put your car at "Curb" height when torqueing down the bushings. My new bushings will be here tomorrow and I WIll be done on Saturday!!
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Old 02-18-2016, 12:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by WJL
You shouldn't have to drive the car to center anything in fact don't drive the car until you get it figured out

Google mustang control arms and start comparing

Youtube has vids


I agree with You... read my last post.
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Old 02-18-2016, 05:45 PM
  #19  
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I disagree the control arms should be at curb height when tightened, just my opinion. Glad you figured it out, not to beat this thread to no end, but you should consider new ball joints while you have it a part.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by WJL
I disagree the control arms should be at curb height when tightened, just my opinion. Glad you figured it out, not to beat this thread to no end, but you should consider new ball joints while you have it a part.
The only reason for not being at height is the center pins are smooth. And the originals have teeth on the ends , which doesn't allow them to move. And the rubber is connected to the pin. On the poly ones they are free floating. You're right tho. I should do the ball joints. After I get it together I'll see if there's any movement. It looks to me they may be newer. Without these forum discussions some people can become lost , due to the lack of info these companies provide
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