Drastang

got my whole mmr motor together it take's my whole body weight to turn crank... this normal for a completely rebuilt motor?

jwog666

no, not if the heads are off or spark plugs are removed so that you arent fighting compression. you have something put together incorrectly, did you plastigauge the bearings? did you use ARP fasteners for the main caps? if so you may have to have the block align bored while using those fasteners, the difference in torque may distort the block differently then the stock bolts did. are the main caps in the correct places and oriented correctly? did you install a main journal girdle? this will also cause distortion of the mains.

oxfordgt

Need more info on what you did during the build. Did everthing go back where it came off? Which bolts and which torque specs did you use? Did you gap the rings correctly? What assembly lube did you use?

No need to align hone for ARP studs but all mains should be checked by a machinist. Never ever ever use plasti gauge on a performance engine, probably the first thing you learn in engine building. That **** will **** up the bearings. Measure always before installing.

jwog666

plasti gauge is wax, and will never damage bearings. were you born full of chit or have you honed that skill over time?

and ARP recommends align honing and measuring with new fasteners

stop giving out bad info, some people come here for help, not BS

oxfordgt

You are some kid that knows nothing about engines. I am an engine builder. Go to any engine builders shop and ask if they use plasti gauge. Not a single one will even have that crap in their shop. Plasti gauge is nowhere near as accurate as a snap and mic. Trust a plasti gauge and it's wrong and you just starved the bearing of oil and destroyed the bearing. I could have predicted your response which is why I wrote it the way I did. Really who in their right mind would think something softer than metal would damage it? LOL I know someone who doesn't build engines LMAO.

Last 15 engines that I installed main studs not a single one needed align honed. I really can't even remember the last time I needed to align hone main bearings. Yes ARP recommends checking and align hone if needed but you also check with stock TTY bolts also.

jwog666

plasti gauge is absolutely accurate enough to indicate if the clearances are too tight, its funny that every time you are proven incorrect you make it seem like you posted that way as a joke. any your statement about never needing an align hone means nothingm, as it could very well be the cause of his concern

Drastang

everything is lubed properly I started having a a lot of resistance after 7th pistion and by 8th it took about 50lb force to turn it, now with all the heads and timing chains on it takes my whole body weight to turn it. the crank was free spinning fine before pistons I did check gab on rings they where ok I believe it was .015 or .15.. plugs are out of heads.

jwog666

what was the clearance on the rod journals? if the crank spun free before the pistons, i would suspect you have a piston/rod concern for sure.

Drastang

I just broke it down to bare block, every piston I took off made it easier so I'm going to go through and re check every piston ring and assign them to a cylinder/pston after checking the clearances. crank is free spinning by 6 inches (1/3 turn) after removed all the pistons.

Drastang

rings filed down and made perfect for each cylinder, I can turn it at the crank with both hands about 20lb effort =) way better.

just broke down complete motor and rebuilt short block in 2 hours solo =) I'm getting good at this.