A/C PARTS NEEDED
05-24-2016, 05:45 PM
#12
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
got it, now I know, I thought a vacuum would pull everything out. but was wrong. my shop guy said the exact same as you. I looked up black death earlier today. an A/c system is the only thing I have never worked on, I just want to get it right. plus , better safe than sorry later, thank you
I've made my share of mistakes on cars when I first started doing my own work. The mistakes were my own fault from either not doing my research or trying to cut corners to try and save a few bucks or time. It ended up costing me more money, time, and frustration later on for the same problem or a related problem because I cut corners.
562 sounds a little high? Compressor+Clutch, orifice tube, receiver drier and..? Are these the shop prices?
05-25-2016, 10:38 AM
#13
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: california
Posts: 100
No worries, you gotta learn one way or another and at least you are asking questions and heeding sage advice. Working on cars can be fun and a great way to save money but, only if it's done the right way.
I've made my share of mistakes on cars when I first started doing my own work. The mistakes were my own fault from either not doing my research or trying to cut corners to try and save a few bucks or time. It ended up costing me more money, time, and frustration later on for the same problem or a related problem because I cut corners.
562 sounds a little high? Compressor+Clutch, orifice tube, receiver drier and..? Are these the shop prices?
I've made my share of mistakes on cars when I first started doing my own work. The mistakes were my own fault from either not doing my research or trying to cut corners to try and save a few bucks or time. It ended up costing me more money, time, and frustration later on for the same problem or a related problem because I cut corners.
562 sounds a little high? Compressor+Clutch, orifice tube, receiver drier and..? Are these the shop prices?
I ended up getting a new oem condenser and a condenser to compressor hose. that's why it went up to 562. I got all the parts from rockauto
05-25-2016, 02:11 PM
#14
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Yeah, put the parts in but be sure to drain and measure the amount of oil that you drain out of the old condenser and compressor. Then, Drain whatever was shipped in the new ones into a clean container like a measuring cup and replace only the volume of oil you drained out of each of the old parts. Double check the oiling instructions that came with the compressor. As long as you're in the Min-MAX range for whatever they state don't add any. If you drained out less than the suggested minimum amount from the compressor, put in whatever default value the instructions give you.
Instructions will come with both components so this is just to give you a heads-up
This makes sure you're not over/under oiling the system. Too much oil you can either pop a leak or decrease your efficiency. Too little oil and you'll burn out the compressor.
05-25-2016, 02:21 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: california
Posts: 100
Okay, that's why.
Yeah, put the parts in but be sure to drain and measure the amount of oil that you drain out of the old condenser and compressor. Then, Drain whatever was shipped in the new ones into a clean container like a measuring cup and replace only the volume of oil you drained out of each of the old parts. Double check the oiling instructions that came with the compressor. As long as you're in the Min-MAX range for whatever they state don't add any. If you drained out less than the suggested minimum amount from the compressor, put in whatever default value the instructions give you.
Instructions will come with both components so this is just to give you a heads-up
This makes sure you're not over/under oiling the system. Too much oil you can either pop a leak or decrease your efficiency. Too little oil and you'll burn out the compressor.
Yeah, put the parts in but be sure to drain and measure the amount of oil that you drain out of the old condenser and compressor. Then, Drain whatever was shipped in the new ones into a clean container like a measuring cup and replace only the volume of oil you drained out of each of the old parts. Double check the oiling instructions that came with the compressor. As long as you're in the Min-MAX range for whatever they state don't add any. If you drained out less than the suggested minimum amount from the compressor, put in whatever default value the instructions give you.
Instructions will come with both components so this is just to give you a heads-up
This makes sure you're not over/under oiling the system. Too much oil you can either pop a leak or decrease your efficiency. Too little oil and you'll burn out the compressor.
my compressor, drier and orifice hose came in today. being that the hose is sealed I hope they put the orifice filter in
05-25-2016, 03:10 PM
#16
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Even if the old compressor is damaged, it should still have oil in it. Only leaks like a bad seal or really messed up bearing will typically cause you to lose oil.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
Last edited by Derf00; 05-25-2016 at 03:17 PM.
05-25-2016, 04:04 PM
#17
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: california
Posts: 100
Even if the old compressor is damaged, it should still have oil in it. Only leaks like a bad seal or really messed up bearing will typically cause you to lose oil.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
06-13-2016, 03:36 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: california
Posts: 100
Even if the old compressor is damaged, it should still have oil in it. Only leaks like a bad seal or really messed up bearing will typically cause you to lose oil.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
The condenser should also come with some type of instructions to clarify oil capacity. Generally speaking, yes, you will need to verify what's in the old condenser and place an equal amount of oil into the new one. Usually it's only an ounce or two though. Most of the oil will be in the compressor as well as an ounce or two in the receiver/drier.
If you bought a new hose the orifice tube should already be in it. If that's not clear in the part description you ordered from or with any papers that may have come with it, it wouldn't hurt to be extra certain and crack open the hose to check for yourself.
This would also allow you to see which one they put in there anyways . Ford orifice tubes come in different colors that indicate orifice size or have a variable orifice size. Some work better than others depending on your system and needs.
When I worked on my Escape's A/C system, I opted for a variable opening orifice tube. They are more efficient at keeping a consistent output at idle, city, and highway driving (comfort in general). Since I live in AZ, it just made sense. The down side to the variable orifice tubes is their piston can fail by sticking open or closed. This just means they lose the ability to change their size.
finally got all the parts removed, and getting ready to assemble. my manual tells me how much pag oil to add to all the parts. whole system =8.6 oz. 3 oz in the evaporator, 2 oz in the drier, 1 oz in the condenser, I guess the rest in the compressor. I've also read the compressor needs at least 3 oz. My question. I have no idea how much oil is in my evaporator. I was thinking I could flush it ( with? ) and compressed air. to get it all out. is this a good idea??
06-14-2016, 01:23 PM
#19
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
finally got all the parts removed, and getting ready to assemble. my manual tells me how much pag oil to add to all the parts. whole system =8.6 oz. 3 oz in the evaporator, 2 oz in the drier, 1 oz in the condenser, I guess the rest in the compressor. I've also read the compressor needs at least 3 oz. My question. I have no idea how much oil is in my evaporator. I was thinking I could flush it ( with? ) and compressed air. to get it all out. is this a good idea??
06-20-2016, 12:03 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: california
Posts: 100
UPDATE!!!! Job finished!! Took to shop this morning. First they vacuumed system for 45 min, then they did a leak test for 30 min. All was good , then he put the 134-A in. My compressor at first was cycling. The low pressure started at 40 then dropped to 20.. on the high side it would start at 215 and top off at 300. after about 30 minutes or so. the low side stabled at 30 and the high at 240. the compressor now does not cycle. the tech told me that the pag oil more than likely hadn't spread through the whole system yet. obviously it has now. And I saved over 700 dollars. Thanks all of you who helped!!!
