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WJL, I thought the same thing. I one larger vacuum hose that extends from the passenger side intake pipe, to the top header drivers side was off...but after reconnecting, I still heard the metal-to-metal grinding sounds. I'm also still struggling with the H-pipe. Penetrating oil and elbow grease is not working. I'm becoming very frustrated with this car. I may try heat next, it's just upsetting knowing someone placed the wrong style nut/fastener to the last bolt I need to remove the H-pipe.
So, I got the stock nut off, I applied heat two different times. Got it just before she started to strip so bad I could not get the fastener off. Super lucky! Now I’ve got every bolt off except that top bolt off the starter. They say come in through the front, but it’s such a weird angle and I’m trying with two swivel sockets with no luck. Any suggestions on that top starter bolt to remove?
Last time I did one of those starters, I used a couple feet of extensions and turned my ratchet from the pulley area. But when the new starter went in, I realized that all I needed was about 6 inches or so of extension to clear the starter. It went back together great; I don't know why it seemed so difficult at first.
Urambo Tauro is right on spot, i did the exact same thing the first time i took it out, also try using a magnet on the extension to hold the fastener in the socket
Well, great news! My son and I got the tranny out, and guess what...seized throw out bearing! So, I snapped some pics, thought I'd share with the group, and I'll plan out the cover plate, clutch, disc and flywheel next. Along with some inspections etc...I feel a major accomplishment. Thank you all for the insights, support and knowledge. More to follow!Seized throw out bearing Clutch cover plate, etc,....
torsiondrummer, very scary. Glad you are the point of installing all needed components. Let us know how things are getting along.
Thanks Buck, Very scary indeed, I was a little worried about removing the transmission (taking it off), and having enough support with two jacks strategically placed. I was also wondering - because I think you mentioned different proper Heights and adjustments on the new components. Everything seems very straightforward, aside from torque specifications- are there any PDFs or manuals out there I need to review on installation? I’ve seen about 3 to 4 very good videos on showing Installation, but no mention of proper Heights and adjustments - thanks!
Thanks to jrichker. With the "stock plastic quadrant and cable," pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works.
Clutch pedal adjustment with "aftermarket quadrant and cable:" I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.
The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.
Thank you Buck, very interesting, and very detailed! In summary, the two methods should work either way, however if I'm adjusting more than one click, on the small ratchet mechanism, there's bound to be an issue. Of course, I am concerned with the binding common to adjustable cables - and misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable - which I will strictly pay attention to during assembly. I plan to keep the stock cable, unless I run into issues.
And here is the old release bearing - both sides. Unbelievable. I'm also ordering a new Clutch fork pivot ball stud from LMR. I noticed slight wear on the existing stock ball stud, and said, why take the chance with the clutch fork?
Bearing side one Bearing side two Old clutch disc and cover plate Flywheel (currently getting it resurfaced at a machine shop)
Last time I did one of those starters, I used a couple feet of extensions and turned my ratchet from the pulley area. But when the new starter went in, I realized that all I needed was about 6 inches or so of extension to clear the starter. It went back together great; I don't know why it seemed so difficult at first.
Thanks UT! - I meant to thank you a few days ago...I did the same thing trying to remove that third bolt up top of the starter housing, and ended up switching to two small extensions getting just enough clearance for a small ratchet.
01-20-2018, 09:52 AM
Got the stuck bolt off! Now what?!
