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So, having issues with the engine, this time, I think it's a clutch issue, but I'm not sure. 2002 4.6 L Mustang GT. Any thoughts? Here's the video of me starting it. If I rev it up past 3-5K rpm's, she stays on, with all the check engine lights on, loud squeeling - but below 2k rpm, she dies and barely shifts into gear, and dies. I tried to put her in reverse and sounded like it was grindging with the clutch fully depressed.
torsiondrummer, it's me again. Glad you started a new blog. OK, the grinding sound sounds like a throw out bearing, but, from your past posts I think it might either be a bad clutch finger adjustment or a issue in the transmission. I sent you the clutch finger adjustment on another blog. You also stated that everything concerning the clutch was changed by the dealership. This is why I am leaning towards the clutch finger adjustment. Mention this adjustment to the Ford dealer. If everything with the clutch checks out, I would suspect the tranny as being the culprit. The stalling issue is another problem which could be caused by to much friction/resistance being applied by the tranny. Keep me posted as to your progress.
torsiondrummer, in case it got lost, here is the information on the "finger height variation adjustment." The problem might be finger height variation on the clutch pressure plate. This causes premature wear on all other clutch components (TO bearing, etc.) Greasing up the TO bearing will increase its life, but it doesn't fix the problem. What this means is. The problem is, the fork is not pushing the throwout bearing far enough into the pressure plate. The fork is hitting on the bellhouse before it disengages the clutch, like it does not have enough travel. Tell this to the Ford tech, he will evaluate your problem accordingly. Also, try this first. Sounds like it could also be a simple clutch adjustment. There is no adjustable pivot ball on the mustang, it's all in the cable. Rule of thumb is a 1/4" between the face of the bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate when the pedal is up at the rest position. Take the cover off the fork hole opening in the bell housing and see how much distance you have between the bearing and the fingers. A lot of times, when replacing flywheel and clutch, the stackup height is different between the new ones and the original ones that were replaced.
Buck, excellent post, and I appreciate the detailed information and technical guidance. So, in theory, would a new clutch kit (which I bought a Duralast from Autozone) do the trick, as in correct stock distance for finger height variation, between the fork pushing the new throw out bearing far enough into the pressure plate?
What's the BEST grease folks are using on the TOB shaft by the way?
I'm still struggling with interference removal, my son and I got the drive shaft off, most of the starter bolts (one I can't get to because of the H-pipe), and tarted working on the H-pipe. I've got one very tough bolt that we're struggling with. Spraying a silicone lubricant (and wait) did not help, and it appears it's a different style flanged bolt, different from the other 7 we removed.
Stuck H-pipe (exhaust) bolt). starting to strip
*Update*...I've heard to remove such a fastener to use everything from Kroil (penetrating oil), PB Blaster, 50/50 ATF/Acetone mixture, blowtorch, or cut it off (can't get to it -
Last edited by torsiondrummer; 01-17-2018 at 11:57 AM.
torsiondrummer, even when a new clutch, pressure plate,throwout bearing, and pilot bearing are installed, proper adjustments/clearances must be set. This is what a lot of clutch installers miss out on. They assume because everything is new, the clearances must automatically be correct as soon as everything is buttoned up. Check all adjustments. As for the throw out bearing grease, a "thin" layer of quality wheel bearing grease should be fine. I use AMSOIL synthetic wheel bearing grease,but, back in the day when I was running oval cars, I loved the Kendall blue wheel bearing grease. You choose. If that exhaust nut is that difficult, you might have to put some heat to it. My pit crew won't let me use the torch because I catch everything on fire. That flange bolt has a square tipped end, that usually means high torque. Be careful. Sorry if I left anything out.
Buck, AWESOME! I will pay close attention to the proper adjustments and clearances - that makes a lot of sense! I read someone slam Duralast parts, but I wonder if they installed them properly?
And, I'll be looking for either Kroil or a torch in my near future....not both at the same time LOL
What's interesting, is 6 of the bolts were stand 15mm exhaust bolts. The two on the passenger FWD end were the flange )(problem) and a 12 mm. Weird. Someone else must have took a short cut, leaving me to hang....
I'll look for the AMSOIL synthetic wheel bearing grease as well. You've given super great tips so far, and I'm trusting your advice -
From watching the video the motor is acting the way you would expect if there is a large vacuum leak, not saying you don't have a clutch issue , but i'm thinking you have two different things going on.
WJL, I thought the same thing. I one larger vacuum hose that extends from the passenger side intake pipe, to the top header drivers side was off...but after reconnecting, I still heard the metal-to-metal grinding sounds. I'm also still struggling with the H-pipe. Penetrating oil and elbow grease is not working. I'm becoming very frustrated with this car. I may try heat next, it's just upsetting knowing someone placed the wrong style nut/fastener to the last bolt I need to remove the H-pipe.
01-12-2018, 07:51 PM
Clutch or Engine?
Clutch or Engine?
