Fan quit working. Ccrm and fan is new. Help - Page 2 - MustangForums.com


4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

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Old 05-09-2018, 06:46 PM   #11  
08'MustangDude
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What about the engine coolant temperature sensor? If it doesn't work, it won't
tell the ECU the engine is hot to turn the fan on.

Where so start? Turn the motor on, and run the A/C, the fan should turn
on. Since it's not, you check for voltage at the high current 30A fuse, which
should have power for the fan to be on high. If not, the PCM is not commanding
it, or a bad ground.

IF you hook power up to the fan for working, is that with a separate power and ground, or just applying
power to the harness red/org wire with the plug left in, thus using the factory ground? You can
do it this way, the circuit is protected, the relays will be off. This will tell you if the harness ground
is good. So, with the car off, run a jumper wire from the battery, to the red/org wire while still
plugged in to the fan. If the fan turns on, then you're back to the CCRM, or PCM...
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:05 PM   #12  
Urambo Tauro
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That diagram doesn't include the ECT sensor, but it does show the entire power side of the cooling circuit (well, except for the battery and its connections to the fuse panel & ground). If you trace power according to the diagram, you'll find where the voltage stops, somewhere between the fuse and the fan motor. If it stops somewhere inside the CCRM, then you'll know that it's either the CCRM or something else in the control side of the circuit.

I was afraid that if I shared the diagram for my car that it might be different that the one for your car. And sure enough, this one is indeed slightly different than what I've got. So as long as this diagram matches your car's model year, you should be able to narrow it down quite a bit from here.
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Old 05-10-2018, 06:44 AM   #13  
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diagram is for a 2001 gt, the ECT is a 2 wire, one is a shared 5v vref and the other is an output that goes straight to the PCM. Cooling fan control is straight from PCM which will ground relays in the CCRM to control fan operation. Lets stick with the diagram I originally provided and make sure everything is there before jumping on to anything else

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Old 05-10-2018, 06:56 AM   #14  
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Its pretty much a power flow chart. Pin 14 and 17 at the CCRM are the grounds from the PCM. When PCM commands CCRM to turn fan on, one or both of those wires (pin 14/17) are grounded. If all powers are present going into the CCRM at pins 3 and 4 (at the CCRM connector) then he can manually backprobe ground pins 14 or 17 (at CCRM) connector and fans should operate. If they dont operate then suspect a power problem between CCRM output and fan itself. If both hi/low fans work if pins 14 or 17 are grounded then suspect a problem either internal PCM or wires from PCM to CCRM
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:52 AM   #15  
Jeremy Porter
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Okay, so I'll have power going to my fan now. I did find a not so good ground and redone the wires. All the fuses and relays are now working. The fan still wouldn't kick on. I have a new fan but I went ahead and jumped the cooling temp season on the side of my shroud. Looks like it's bad. If I jump it it'll kick on when the a.c. is on. I let the car warm up but still didn't kick on when it got hit. I'm getting that replaced and I'll know soon if it's back to normal.
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:11 AM   #16  
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I'm confused. You say you have power to the fan now, after cleaning up a poor ground connection, but then you say that the fan won't kick on? So that should be a bad fan motor, except that you tested the fan by itself earlier, and it works when you hook up power directly. Did I misread something?
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:48 AM   #17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Porter View Post
Okay, so I'll have power going to my fan now. I did find a not so good ground and redone the wires. All the fuses and relays are now working. The fan still wouldn't kick on. I have a new fan but I went ahead and jumped the cooling temp season on the side of my shroud. Looks like it's bad. If I jump it it'll kick on when the a.c. is on. I let the car warm up but still didn't kick on when it got hit. I'm getting that replaced and I'll know soon if it's back to normal.
you talking about the fan resistor that clips into the fan itself? that doesnt come with a new fan? have you been reusing that with new fans?
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Old 05-10-2018, 12:02 PM   #18  
Jeremy Porter
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Yes the resister. It's new. It come built into the fan. Not sure how it's bad already.
Sorry I have power going to the ccrm and appears my ground for the pcm is good. The fuses are all working and good. When the a.c. is on I have power going to the resister. When the car got hot I didn't have power to the resister ( when the a.c. was off). I jumped the resister and the fan kicked in when the ac was on. When it was hot and a.c.off the fan didn't kick on when I jumped the resister. Only when the a.c. was on. Would that be just the resister? Maybe a temp sensor? How could I test the temp sensor? I unplugged it when the car was warm and my gauge dropped to cold. Then jumped back up to warm when I plugged it back in making me think that's good.
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Old 05-10-2018, 01:04 PM   #19  
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how did you tell the car was "hot".. by the dash? Id compare scanner data for ECT vs what a temp gun tells you. The fans only come on when they need to... you might think the car is "hot" but in reality its normal operating temp. only time the fan should continuously run is when the AC compressor is engaged
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:53 PM   #20  
Jeremy Porter
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I had a external gauge attached to the radiator and it showed 245. The gauge in the car also almost hit the "H". The steam coming from the cap. It definitly was hot.
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