4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

help me put my stang into low 13s.

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Old 10-31-2005, 05:18 PM
  #21  
Bob99GTConv
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Default RE: help me put my stang into low 13s.

the T-45 is not a solid tranny, neither is the T-5, if you dont power shift you may be ok for a while. But I power shift at the track(6000rpm) and street racing and Im on my second T-45. It simply wears the gears and syncros faster. If you let off the gas and push the clutch each time, it will hold up until you start pushing 400 or so RWHP. My 2 cents. And yes, I tried shifting at lower rpm's(in the alledged power band around 5400-5700) and my ET sucked(13.90). Then I shifted at 6000(6400 in first, yes I raised my rev limiter) and put down a 13.65, but that is with my mods, gears, blah blah.
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:33 PM
  #22  
jdaniel
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Default RE: help me put my stang into low 13s.

The Mac LT headers started to rust around the collectors after about three months of the installation. I will never in my life buy another Mac product. I make sure I tell everyone that! THEY SUCK!

My rearend took a beating like no other. I was launching it at 5000+ rpms on one of the best tracks in the U.S. with 275/60/15's. The tires wrinkled like a drag slick and hooked everytime with absolutly NO spinning! I let the pressure down to 16 psi and popped the clutch every time and never once had any trouble out of the rear end. Now... if you buy a power added and making anything over 350 to the wheels then its only a matter of time that you break the spider gears or bend an axle.

JD1969 is right about the Nitto's. They are good for running around the street, but if you are serious at the track then get some BFG's or MT Drag radials!
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