Operating temp ranges
 

Hi everyone I am new to this forum page,I have a 1996 SVT Cobra with a little over 95k on it.I bought it almost 2 months ago mods include a welded diff,1 piece driveshaft,exhaust and a stage 3 unsprung clutch.Continuing to my topic I am new to the SN95 chassis.I had to replace the water pump & radiator,I also am running without a thermostat due to overheating.I bought it that way where it would leak coolant and overheat when driving,it no longer overheats when driving even when under stress but does when I am sitting at a light.I am convinced it is my fan shroud (yes my fan does work I have tested with and without A/C) but I am a tad bit confused on the temp gauge where it says “NORMAL” it sometimes will reach the “L” in normal and I become worried due to it being aluminum but I was told that it can run In that temp range because it is in the normal range and I’d only have to worry if it reaches the “H” but I’m not entirely sure on that.Can someone tell me if it is ok you run in the “NORMAL” range by the L while sitting or is that overheating?Thanks everyone-Nick

Why do you think it is your shroud? What kind of shape is your radiator in?

It’s a brand new mishimoto radiator replacement I have about 3500 miles on that..I just wanted to know if when the needs moves past the middle part is it overheating or is that normal

What isn't normal is having to run without a thermostat. Their is definitely a fly in the ointment somewhere that bears further investigation.

+1^, put that thermostat back in.

When you say the fan "works", does it work on both low and high speeds? Your symptoms sound suspiciously like the fan may not be running on low speed, and you might only be getting high speed fan operation once the temperature gets hot enough to trigger it.

I have a '96 GT, and I can tell you my temp gauge needle typically sits right about on the "A" in "normal" when fully warm during summer driving. I had the same concern when I bought the car last year, but I am now convinced it is a combination of the thermostat, and the gauge calibration. I have a IR thermometer, and with the engine idling after a full warm up, the t-stat housing temperature seems to correspond with the operating temperature of the stock (195°) t-stat.

I am going to be doing a flush and fill on my cooling system in the next couple of weeks, and I am planning on swapping in a 180° t-stat at that time. I know they make even cooler t-stats, but I have heard that running too cool can cause the computer to throw codes, and engine to run too rich.