Running Like Crap even after new engine install???
12-15-2005, 12:06 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 49
Running Like Crap even after new engine install???
I have a 99 GT, that recently spun a wrist pin, so I had a used engine installed. The old engine was running horrible until I had it swapped. I attributed this to the engine knock, and expected it to go away with the new engine.
After the install, It drove pretty good for the first day or two, then started running exactly the same, minus the knock. It acts like it can't get out of it's own way when I get on the gas, and will sort of stutter or hesitate all the way through the RPM like it's choking, taking longer than usual to rev through the gears. I also hear a fast tickticktick that sounds like exhaust coming from under the shifter anytime the engine is under load (one gear too high or RPM too low) and i give it more than 1/4 throttle.
The new engine is a 2002 31,000 mile stock GT engine, complete with all accessories from the intake/coils/injectors to the oilpan. The only thing re-used was my old engine harness, and anything left in the engine compartment or attached to the chassis(fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, etc...). I have the 02 harness and ECM, but did not want to install these unless required, due to the dealer fee to reprogram the PATS system. The Chassis has about 78,000 miles on it.
With a new engine I was hoping to have a car that ran like new, and with only 31k it really should. The engine install turned out well, and I have no check engine light, or stored codes. The Chassis has about 78,000 miles on it. The fuel filter was changed around 3,000 miles ago. I tested the resistance of the coils according to the Haynes manual I have, and all tested around 5 ohms. Injectors tested 16-18ohms on the passenger side, and 19-21 ohms on the drivers side (no idea why). I tested the fuel pressure at the shrader valve the ghetto way, with a tire pressure gauge and it was at 44psi with the engine running. Vacuum tested about 21 in/hg from the sensor that attaches to the fuel rail. Front o2's were at 3% vs the fuel trims after idling until warm, and rears were at 99%. I have tried 3 different sets of plugs, which made no difference. I even changed the EGR gasket since it had started flaking away when I took it off to check for leaks.
The only thing that I may suspect is that the MAF isnt sealed right around where the filter housing attaches. I used to have an aftermarket CAI, and had to take out the fitted screws in the MAF housing to screw into the Intake. I went back to my stock type K&N Cone filter due to the PITA of changing the aftermarket filter. I had to use the CAI screws to mount it and some are stripped, so theres a gap. The MAF also doesen't sit straight up and down (I've read it should) and is sort of turned.
I have a ELMSCAN PWM Interface and some free OBD2 software. I can get sensor readings any of you might need to help me figure this out.
Any ideas what could be causing my problem?
How would I tell if the exhaust is partially clogged? I have an aftermarket catted X-pipe, and I had Hooker Maxflows installed about 1 1/2 months before the knock started in my old engine.
After the install, It drove pretty good for the first day or two, then started running exactly the same, minus the knock. It acts like it can't get out of it's own way when I get on the gas, and will sort of stutter or hesitate all the way through the RPM like it's choking, taking longer than usual to rev through the gears. I also hear a fast tickticktick that sounds like exhaust coming from under the shifter anytime the engine is under load (one gear too high or RPM too low) and i give it more than 1/4 throttle.
The new engine is a 2002 31,000 mile stock GT engine, complete with all accessories from the intake/coils/injectors to the oilpan. The only thing re-used was my old engine harness, and anything left in the engine compartment or attached to the chassis(fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, etc...). I have the 02 harness and ECM, but did not want to install these unless required, due to the dealer fee to reprogram the PATS system. The Chassis has about 78,000 miles on it.
With a new engine I was hoping to have a car that ran like new, and with only 31k it really should. The engine install turned out well, and I have no check engine light, or stored codes. The Chassis has about 78,000 miles on it. The fuel filter was changed around 3,000 miles ago. I tested the resistance of the coils according to the Haynes manual I have, and all tested around 5 ohms. Injectors tested 16-18ohms on the passenger side, and 19-21 ohms on the drivers side (no idea why). I tested the fuel pressure at the shrader valve the ghetto way, with a tire pressure gauge and it was at 44psi with the engine running. Vacuum tested about 21 in/hg from the sensor that attaches to the fuel rail. Front o2's were at 3% vs the fuel trims after idling until warm, and rears were at 99%. I have tried 3 different sets of plugs, which made no difference. I even changed the EGR gasket since it had started flaking away when I took it off to check for leaks.
The only thing that I may suspect is that the MAF isnt sealed right around where the filter housing attaches. I used to have an aftermarket CAI, and had to take out the fitted screws in the MAF housing to screw into the Intake. I went back to my stock type K&N Cone filter due to the PITA of changing the aftermarket filter. I had to use the CAI screws to mount it and some are stripped, so theres a gap. The MAF also doesen't sit straight up and down (I've read it should) and is sort of turned.
I have a ELMSCAN PWM Interface and some free OBD2 software. I can get sensor readings any of you might need to help me figure this out.
Any ideas what could be causing my problem?
How would I tell if the exhaust is partially clogged? I have an aftermarket catted X-pipe, and I had Hooker Maxflows installed about 1 1/2 months before the knock started in my old engine.
12-15-2005, 12:46 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 488
RE: Running Like Crap even after new engine install???
I'm not a mechanic, but the tickticktick sound you are talking about sounds like the lifters, maybe a valve train problem? A ford dealership should be able to check your exhaust system for leaks and back pressure. Good Luck.
12-15-2005, 01:57 AM
#4
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location:
Posts: 14,917
RE: Running Like Crap even after new engine install???
Do you have an automatic or 5 speed?
If you have an automatic, your torque converter could be fawked, they will make a nasty tick and really bog the car down and make it useless.
If you have an automatic, your torque converter could be fawked, they will make a nasty tick and really bog the car down and make it useless.
12-15-2005, 11:40 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 49
RE: Running Like Crap even after new engine install???
Dan04Cobra,
It's a 5spd, I should have mentioned that in the original post. Since I can't mount the factory filter housing any more with the MAF straight up and down, I'll put my CAI kit back on and see what happens.
n/a_threat,
I don't think it's the lifters, It's an airy exhaust type sound, not a tap. I can't hear any type of exhaust leak with the car idling, it's only under load when I'm on the gas and the engine isn't revving fast enough.
Tonight it's running even worse, almost no throttle response. Theres nearly no difference between half throttle and full throttle in 3rd gear or above.
It's a 5spd, I should have mentioned that in the original post. Since I can't mount the factory filter housing any more with the MAF straight up and down, I'll put my CAI kit back on and see what happens.
n/a_threat,
I don't think it's the lifters, It's an airy exhaust type sound, not a tap. I can't hear any type of exhaust leak with the car idling, it's only under load when I'm on the gas and the engine isn't revving fast enough.
Tonight it's running even worse, almost no throttle response. Theres nearly no difference between half throttle and full throttle in 3rd gear or above.
