4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

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Old 02-15-2006, 01:04 AM
  #31  
czwalga00gt
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

The best question is... if you changed your brakes and rotors WHY is there a break fluid puddle on the ground?????
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Old 02-15-2006, 01:05 AM
  #32  
beheivjer
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

if you are not paying attention when pressing in the calipers they will push fluid back through the lines and out of the master
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Old 02-15-2006, 02:03 AM
  #33  
rbstang
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake


ORIGINAL: rbstang

ORIGINAL: Tim37


ORIGINAL: rbstang


with the car off? because with the car off if you pump the brakes it should build up pressure like you said. If yours doesnt, sounds like your vacuum booster is leaking.
there is no vacume booster on his car.
what assists the brakes then??
Power steering pump provides the vacuum for the brake booster.
Makes sense... I was so sure of my self that stangs had vacuum boosters. went outside proped the hood up didnt see a vacuum booster. Opened up my other car vacuum booster !! i got the 2 car mixxed up too many cars !!
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:12 AM
  #34  
70 MACH I
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

One more thing, the brake fluid on the floor, it is possible that when you retracted your caliper pistons you cocked a cup seal on the master cylinder piston, also if the car has miles on it, as was mentioned earlier (and by the numerous bleedings) the seal in the master could be damaged due to over-extension (the piston seal goes past a worn or gummed up spot in the bore). I too had a low mile Chevy lumina do this to me, the key was low mile, the MC piston had taken a set, and bleeding the car destroyed it. (when bleeding, work the pedal only an inch or two when cycling it to avoid this) Whenever I change pads I bleed/flush the system WITHOUT EXCEPTION, brake fluid and coolant, are the two most overlooked fluids in a car. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it attracts water ( by design) so if it becomes saturated, it starts rusting parts in the system. BTW, ABS units cost $800-$1500 1 quart of fluid, $6. No brainer, eh. In your case, if there is no air in the system, you need a master cylinder. I don't believe they are that bad in price, although I've never priced one on a stang. You just reminded me though, I need to bleed the wife's Bullitt, 2001 model year, 8,000 miles YEOOOW! That's an accident waiting to happen!
John
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:23 PM
  #35  
GTnAZ
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ORIGINAL: beheivjer

It sounds like your rotors might have been turned past there limits and now the calipers are extened past what they should be causing a soft peddle. This means the rotors are too thin to work properly
No they were not turned past the legal limit... the person at the part store (Checkers) used one of those mic's to measure it... the front had plenty of meat left on them... the rears can be turned only one more time after this turn. So the rotors are ok.

I have put about 40 miles on the new pads and the peddle still goes to the floor... under normal driving conditions when I step on the brake peddle it has to be pushed down as far as the gas peddle if not further to come to a complete stop.. I know that isn’t right!!!

Now I was thinking about all this on my way home yesterday... I could understand the peddle feeling a little soft while coming to a stop b/c the new pads being a little slick or not broke in, but once I am stopped the peddle should not be able to be pushed to the floor... it should build up pressure and hold tight. So I think I will take the car to the other Ford dealership here in town and see what they say... its not owned by the same person so hopefully I wont get the run around.

Thanks for all the help guys... it gives me a little more confidence while facing the dealer!!
Ill keep you all updated to what happens.
Thanks again!
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:39 PM
  #36  
GTnAZ
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!

Oh and also, they are not trying to save me money b/c i asked them to... i told them flat out.. i dont care what it is or what it costs.. i want it fixed.
Also i bought a extended warranty for the car that states clear as day as follows:
Non ABS and ABS systmes
All internally lubricated parts of the hydraulic system including the Master cylinder, vacume power assis booster and valve and so on... so its fully covered also... no reason why they should not replace the master cylinder.
I'm going back and telling them to REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER. END OF STORY!
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Old 02-15-2006, 01:26 PM
  #37  
Tim37
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Default RE: ***PLEASE READ*** Brake Help!!


ORIGINAL: beheivjer
It sounds like your rotors might have been turned past there limits and now the calipers are extened past what they should be causing a soft peddle. This means the rotors are too thin to work properly
they would have to be turnd really thin to cause any thing like that with new pads the pads then selves will take up quiet a bit of room in the caliper it wouldnt start showing any thing until the new pads where worn out.


Brake fluid on the floor is honesly normal when doing a break job its form the oil change monkey's filling your master cylinder every time you get a oil change when you do a break job and compress your calipers all the fluid in the calipers has to go some where if you have a full resivoir it will spill out and hit the floor. usualy i don't add fluid when it gets low it means its about time to change either the fornt or reare pads.
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