Header saga continued
#1
Header saga continued
Began install of RS header, engine jacked, motor mount removed, strut bar across K -member removed. It became apparent that there was no way I could reuse the factory studs/nuts, just not enough clearance w/ BBK shorties. (would have been a lot more solid and loosen resistant) So, header bolts it is, First thing I discovered, cover up starter opening with duct tape, yes I lost a bolt in there, DOH! (murphy was helping last night) I retrieved the lost bolt with a magnet though the clutch fork opening. 2nd hint, tack your gasket to the head by using a small dab of 3M weatherstrip adhesive near the bolt holes in the gasket, sets up quick. Set a couple of bolts in place at the top that line up with the "U" shaped cutouts, and slide header into place. (BTW, the BBK shortie is a b**ch to get up inside under the head, that damn starter spot in the bell housing). Stuff a rag in the gap between the tubes of the header on top. Dropped a bolt down in there, lost time trying to retrieve that. (I told you, Murphy was busy). The major problem of the install (I quit for the evening with 5 bolts started) is accessing the top bolts, even with the engine jacked.
Tonight, I'm going to modify an old Ford distributor wrench with the torch to gain me tightening room, the two bolts by the shock tower, are the worst. The right side is the worst, I'll conquer that first, then save the LS for dessert. I'm not sure if long tubes would be easier or worse, might be more room around where the collector on the shorties is, but you will definitely have fun lining them up with the head. Ok, more info tomorrow.
John
Tonight, I'm going to modify an old Ford distributor wrench with the torch to gain me tightening room, the two bolts by the shock tower, are the worst. The right side is the worst, I'll conquer that first, then save the LS for dessert. I'm not sure if long tubes would be easier or worse, might be more room around where the collector on the shorties is, but you will definitely have fun lining them up with the head. Ok, more info tomorrow.
John
#2
RE: Header saga continued
Good luck
I know this doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but how did you disconnect the exhaust manifold from the stock h-pipe? I can't even see the bolts from the top, and I can't reach from the bottom.
I know this doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but how did you disconnect the exhaust manifold from the stock h-pipe? I can't even see the bolts from the top, and I can't reach from the bottom.
#3
RE: Header saga continued
Not a problem, cake part of the job. You must be referring to the RS upper manifold to pipe flange bolt. I used a 8" straight extension and a 8" wobble extension, and a 15mm deep socket. You can sneak this setup in, and end up square to the fastener. Be sure to use a 6 point socket, and pulse loosening torque with your arm on the fastener. Not too tight from factory, but I had an over zealous Ford Tech that kept tightening the S**T out of mine, to cover up the gasket he screwed up. Be patient, just don't strip it. I think the other one isn't that bad. You do need a droplight to see them though.
John
John
#5
RE: Header saga continued
A wobble extension has a slightly curved tip where you stick it in the socket, allowing the socket to tip about 15 degrees in each direction, and still put out decent torque. Wheras a universal tends to kink, av wobble is capable of almost withstanding the torque of a straight extension.
john
john
#6
RE: Header saga continued
the bbk shorties designe didn't take in to acout installation. two hints you will need to trim the driver side for the dip stick tube just a bit off of it it will mak install a lot easier and check the airconditioning hose on the passanger side i thougth it was clear then a week later it blew i melted it.
and the bad news is i had more problems getting the drivers side than the passanger side bolts started.[] i think that was the most time consuming part of the engire job just getting the bolts started.
and the bad news is i had more problems getting the drivers side than the passanger side bolts started.[] i think that was the most time consuming part of the engire job just getting the bolts started.
#7
RE: Header saga continued
I'm not sure what you're using... but i used about a 4-5 inch long cresant wrench. It worked pretty well; I jsut dropped the motor down as low as it could go before the long tubes started hitting on the frame.
#8
RE: Header saga continued
Thanks Tim for the hints, I picked up on The AC line from JBA's installation instructions. FRPP and BBK don't mention it. How do you like the headers? Nice grumble under the floor boards? Lose much low end torque?
John
John
#9
RE: Header saga continued
well i did the headers and x pipe at the same time so i dont' know what did the most. but i did lose a little low end but the top end theres a noticble diffence its like theres a power band form a 2 stroke when you hit about 4500 rpm. as far as sound headers off road x pipe and super 40 flows dumped out of the muffler. wow i finaly heard it for the first time the other night every body kept telling me how loud it is so i tossed a freind of mine the keys and told him to take it down the road. [] its louder than his 408 in his dakota rt i was like wtf.
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junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-28-2015 10:53 AM