Texas_Hot_Rods

Yes it would, but this was with an old motorsport clutch that had seen better days so it was slipping a bit and softening the impact of the lauch. With a better clutch, the car would have more impact on the axles and trans.

If you are planning to frequent the track, plan on axles and a posi to make sure you're not walking home. As for the transmision, the 10 spline set up is good to about 500 HP with a full weight car. If you dump some weight, it will handle even more.

Weight is the enemy that produces broken parts and poor timeslips. It is the initial stress of resistance to moving the weight of a vehicle that produces copious amounts of torque and loads to the trans/axles and other parts.

More HP & TQ without upgrading these parts or losing weight along the way, and you're asking for failure. That is one reason weight reduction is such a big factor when running on a budget. Less weight means less stress so you can get better times with the same HP and not break parts as easlily.

Brian
Texas Hot Rods

mikev08826

Man, you are soooo gellin.

geetee03

hey Brian, i'll be getting the stang on the dyno soon with the juice to see what it'll put down.

how many tenths can you score with upper/lower control arms? i've neglected my suspension!

my goalis torun 12's at our elevation, 12.99 is fine with me!

Texas_Hot_Rods

Bring it down this week, I have some time open TH or Fri and we are planning to head to the track on Friday with one of our shop cars for R&D and times.

I would go with the uppers/lowers I mentioned in the thread...$199 for all 4!

P.S. We'll put your GT in the bottom 12's at elevation, just bring it for the tune!

Brian
Texas Hot Rods

mylongvictor

Awwwwww gawd..... The anticipation factor is KILLING me Brian........ When can I see my baby! lol

Yall start working again this week? I may be down in El Paso on the 11th visting some friends. Deffinately stopping by the shop to see some of the other beasts yall got.

nonojoe66

after reading this thread ive pretty much decided to go without the nitrous for a while and concentrate on getting the car to hook like this, so far ive bought upper and lower control arms, the strange10 way adjustable shocks all around, ebach drag springs with the air bag, and kenny brown subframe connectors. next im planning on buying slicks and skinnys, what wheels and tires do u guys sugjest? whats the rim and tiresize and backspacing on that car? im looking to keep the price down as much as possible. also, how much slower do you think the car would have been without the cams? oh and one more question, how manylauncheslike that have that stocktrans and rear held together for?

2000GT4.6

Good luck with the stock 8.8 and a 60 foot of 1.6 with slicks... its only a matter of time.

With the stock manifolds that seems like a pretty optimistic dyno number. That should have you around 295 with a set of LTs...

Texas_Hot_Rods

That you are correct! It actually snapped an axle on the second pass at Baytown for the FFW about 20 passes after that video. Now it sports 31's and a real posi as well as some Long Tubes and 1.59 60 fts.

As for the dyno numbers, it's in the tune. All of our heads cams cars run over 300 rwhp on stock 2v bottom ends with Long Tubes and the basic bolt ons. With this one, it didn't have the long tubes for this pull, but had an aggressive tune with the cams. Usually we pick up another 15 rwhp with the heads and the same with Long Tubes, which would put this in the usual 300 + range for what we've tuned in the past.

Again, I am pulling from memory so this may be off by a few points, but either way, Dyno numbers are just tuning tools and braggin rights for bench racing. The results at the track are what we count on. This one ran 12.40'son 3back to back passesthat day as well as a couple 12.50's and has been a best of 12.05 with the long tubes. Irregardless of the dyno numbers, it ran solid 12's every pass. That's why we appreciate the 2v's so much. Bang for the buck baby!

Brian
Texas Hot Rods

Texas_Hot_Rods

As for the wheel/tire fitment, here you guys go:

94+ GT's or Live Axle cobra's
15 x 10's with 6.5 of backspacing on a 5 lug 4.5 bolt circle
15 x 3.5 or 4 front runners with 1 3/4 or 2 1/4 backspacing will work with minor mods to the caliper and a 3/8 billet spacer we carry for $45/pair. These are hub centric so they are not the cheapies like pep boys, autozone, etc sell.

On a budget you can run the new summit/jegs star wheels in the following:
15 x 8 rear
15 x 4 fronts
You can get these for under $500 for all 4 wheels with lugs.

As for tires, here's some choices:

15 x 10 wheels can run M/T 26 x 10 slicks, M/T 28 x 10 slicks, M/T 26 x 12.5 ET streets or M/T 28 x 12.5 ET streets. Good rule of thumb, run the 26 inch tires with 400 or less rwhp, 28's with 400+.

As for the front tires, most run a 165 R 15 street radial, you can also run M/T 26 x 7.5 sportsmans or ET Fronts. The 26 inch tall M/T's on the front are worth a better reaction time and trap speeds if you are shallow or deep staging as it gives a little more roll out on breaking the beams.

Call or PM if you have any other questions. We're always here to help.


P.S. Without cams, expect high 12's on the same set up, we generally pick up 3-4 tenths with the cams.

Brian
Texas Hot Rods

2000GT4.6

Edit: Just deleted the post