Subotai_95

LOL.. I wasn't sure if it would even get answered so for any of you guys on the mach page, sorry for the double post here.. But question regarding safety equipment..

I was looking up the new 08 rules in the NHRA rule book, and it looks like to track my new mods at Kennedale in TX (which is an NHRA sanctioned track that uses their rules..), I'd need to have a roll bar, a five-point harness with a quick release, and a helmet before they'd let me run in any sanctioned events..

My question is, does anybody know how much it would cost to buy/install a roll-bar and a harness?? The helmet I can handle because I know where I can get good ones, but I have NO clue where to look for a sanctioned roll bar set up, or what it would cost, or the same for the harness for that matter.. I'm still digging here, but any nuggets of knowledge that might help are welcome..

Subotai_95

Hrmmm.. does nobody know where I could findsome of this stuff? ^^^

Dilireus

I've heard that S&W Race Cars makes good ones. Maximum Motorsports also has some that are NHRA/NMRA approved.

JayC

Post the rules you're getting this from. As far as I know a 13 sec car needs a helmet and that about it

Subotai_95

This came from the Texas Motor Speedway website, and they're pretty much sticklers for following the NHRA safety guidelines. I'm thinking I might need one because I haven't had a chance to track my new mods yet.. Yeah stock the mach was a 13 sec car, I've seen put about 17k into the car so I"m HOPING that once I get my driver mod dialed in I can run mid-11's, though we'll see how well that goes.. LOL

Anyway, here's an excerpt of the TMS rulebook that they're saying caming from the 08 NHRA rulebook:

I bolded the stuff I was talking about.. The D/S loop I already have ordered..
[*]
Valid driver's license beyond a learner’s permit level.[*]
Must be 16 years or older.[*]
Seat belts required.[*]
Long pants and full T-Shirt (no tank tops) and shoes (no sandals). [*]
Helmets are required in all classes. 14.00 seconds or slower must wear a minimum of DOT certified helmet. 13.99 and quicker must have Snell M2000, M2005, K98, K2005, SA2000,Sa2005,SFI 31.1A, 31.1/2005,31.2A, 41.1A, 41.1/2005, or 41.2A helmet with or without shield.[*]
Doors must be functional from both inside and outside.[*]
All cars must be self starting.[*]
Good tires.[*]
Hub caps and trim rings removed.[*]
Safe windshields.[*]
Brakes in good working order.[*]
Must have one functional tail light. No flashing or blinking lights permitted.[*]
Must have neutral safety switch and reverse lock out device.[*]
Radiator catch can overflow, at least one pint.[*]
Carburetor inlet must not be openly exposed.[*]
Roll bar mandatory in all cars running 11.00-11.49 seconds.[*]
Roll cage mandatory in all vehicles running 10.99 and quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph.[*]
If car has T-tops or is a convertible, the driver must have Snell M2000, M2005, K98, K2005, SA2000,Sa2005,SFI 31.1A, 31.1/2005,31.2A, 41.1A, 41.1/2005, or 41.2A helmet with or without shield.[*]
Neck collar mandatory in all cars running 9.99 and quicker or exceeding 135 mph.[*]
Convertibles must have roll bar if running 13.49 and quicker.[*]
Automatic transmission lines must be high pressure type.[*]
Pressurized containers (for example, air bottles) must be DOT approved.[*]
Hood scoops may not extend more than 11 inches above original hood surface.[*]
Mechanical throttle linkage, if altered, must have toe loop on pedal.[*]
Dual carb return springs.[*]
All holes in floor, firewall, and rear must be plugged with .024 steel or 032 aluminum.[*]
Fuel block or regulator must be 6 inches from firewall.[*]
No more than 12 inches of rubber hose in fuel system from tank to carb.[*]
No fuel lines in drivers compartment.[*]
Retention strap mandatory with traction bars and ladder bars.[*]
Drive shaft loop required 13.99 and quicker and all cars using slicks, including DOT slicks.[*]
Three inch driver restraint system (seat harness) SFI Spec 16.1 mandatory in any car required to have roll bar or roll cage.[*]
Batteries must be securely mounted and may not be located in the driver compartment. If battery is relocated, vehicle must have master cutoff switch at rear of car clearly marked on/off.[*]
Master cutoff mandatory on any car running 9.99 and quicker or exceeding 135 mph.[*]
Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/I required at 10.00 to 11.49.[*]
Jacket and pants meeting SFI Spec 3.2 A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1 required at 7.50 to 9.99 or any vehicle exceeding 135 mph.[*]
Only factory tint on windows.[*]
Must have metal valve stems 11.99 and quicker.[*]
9.99 and quicker cars must be chassis certified and have NHRA license.[*]
If using nitrous oxide system: All bottles must be securely mounted, stamped with minimum DOT 1800 lb. rating and identified as nitrous oxide. If bottle is in driver's compartment, it must be equipped with a relief valve vented outside of driver's compartment. System must be commercially available and installed per manufacturer's recommendation.[*]
Parachute required on cars 9.99 and quicker and all cars exceeding 150 mph.

JayC

I got ya. So what's your set-up now? I wouldn't put a bar in a street driven car until the track officials made. Those things are very dangerous in a street accident[8D]

Subotai_95

I was thinking about that too.. so I might just go to the track when I get back and see how I do the first time out.It's gonna take me a few passes to get everything dialed in so I can pull good 60's, etc..

As for what I'm running right now, I've got the 04 mach in my sig with a P1S/C-2 pushing 8-psi, requisite 42#r's with in-tank pump, TKO 600 tranny w/ lightweight aluminum D/S, 13" brembo slotted rotors w/6 piston calipers and braidedlines, SLPceramic coatedLT's with a high-flow cat'd H going through theloudmouth II's,still have the stocker 3:55 gears, steeda UCA's, just ordered the LCA's from them along with the forged rods/rings/hypereutectics, and all that going to the ground on 275/40/17 Nitto DR's mounted on Steeda Ultralights.. IF I can afford it before I come home, I'm looking at a 12-psi pulley for the P1, and a KB boost-a-pump..

I'm HOPING all of that will put me in the low to mid 11's or better, but that'll all depend on my driver mod.. Still, what I was looking at for bar's isn't really a bar, it's a 7-pt roll-cage from MM that looks pretty darn good for around 400-ish, though that doesn't include the install.. Everybody's been saying MM's a good place to get cages so I'm checking them out..

Still, I would think that a roll-cage would be a little more useful in a street accident as far as prevently damage to the driver than just a straight roll bar would be..

Forgot the Ram HD 6-puck clutch and the billet flywheel.. lol It's been a lllllloooooonnnnnnggggggg day..

Subotai_95

Bump

Dilireus

The real benefit of a cage in an accident is if you roll over. To be legal, the harness bar must be welded in, which makes it about impossible to put anyone in the back (that may or may not be an issue for you). If you get one with removable door bars it's a little more livable, but you'll still bang your head on it every now and then. Remember, they are made for racing with a helmet. I'm going to be in the same boat as you, so I've been trying to decide bar vs cage because my car should be capable of mid-9s. Everyone I've spoken to who has a cage says they absolutely suck on the street. Personally, I think I'll live with ten second time slips and a roll bar with removable door bars since mine will primarily be a street car.

That part you quoted about cages being required for 10.99 or quicker caught my attention since that's not what the NHRA requires. Here's what the NHRA says:

Subotai_95

+1.. Ahhh.. I wasn't sure of that part, and I suppose if I'd actually read the rest of the rulebook page I would've seen that, because it does have that on there now that I've re-read it.. LOL I seriously doubt I'll being seeing 9's in the mach though.. When I get done with what I'm doing, if I can afford it all, I should have between 550 and 575 RWHP, maybe a little more. Which I figure, once I get some practice passes in with the new mods to get my driver mod dialed inshould be good for MAYBE mid to high 10's, but that's all I'm going to want or really need in the car, plus that's going to take a bit of seat time to accomplish. I'm certainly not expecting it the first time on the track with these mods. A year or two down the road when everything's paid for, the house is set up, the marriage is over and done with, then maybe I"ll look into swaping into a D1 or an F1 head unit and beefing up the rear end a little.

I figured I might hit my head on it every now and then, but seriously, as fast and idiotic as Texas driver's are on the road, I might WANT that cage.. as for the weld in bars, I saw that part on MM's page.. I was looking at the 7-pt cages MM is selling with the hinged door bars and the welded harness bars.. Not that bad of a deal really..