Which engine should I go with??
07-20-2008, 04:45 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,236
Which engine should I go with??
Over the next few years, I'd like to build a car capable of 10s or lower. It probably won't be a daily driver by that point, but I want it to have the reliability of a DD. For reliabilty and power, there are three engines I'm looking at. Do I build the 2V 4.6 that's already in my GT, swap in a Termi. 4V, or swap in a 5.0 pushrod? Whichever of the options I go with is going to get a full build and forced induction.
07-20-2008, 08:52 PM
#4
RE: Which engine should I go with??
just get a built 2v with crazy heads and cams and run a hefty shot of nitrous. thats my vote. or just put on a hellion turbo kit. that will be your least expensive route.
07-20-2008, 09:13 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2006
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Posts: 936
RE: Which engine should I go with??
My plan is once my 2V gets well into the 100K mile range Ill look into swapping a termi motor in as the stock motor gets tired. Im basically starting with a GT but hopefully when all is said and done Ill have a cobra minus the SVT certificate.
07-20-2008, 11:49 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,731
RE: Which engine should I go with??
ORIGINAL: ddmsgtr1
Over the next few years, I'd like to build a car capable of 10s or lower. It probably won't be a daily driver by that point, but I want it to have the reliability of a DD. For reliabilty and power, there are three engines I'm looking at. Do I build the 2V 4.6 that's already in my GT, swap in a Termi. 4V, or swap in a 5.0 pushrod? Whichever of the options I go with is going to get a full build and forced induction.
Over the next few years, I'd like to build a car capable of 10s or lower. It probably won't be a daily driver by that point, but I want it to have the reliability of a DD. For reliabilty and power, there are three engines I'm looking at. Do I build the 2V 4.6 that's already in my GT, swap in a Termi. 4V, or swap in a 5.0 pushrod? Whichever of the options I go with is going to get a full build and forced induction.
all you need is:
k member from 1994-1995 mustang gt
351w (you can source from junkyard)
transmission (again sourceable from junkyard)
07-21-2008, 12:33 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,955
RE: Which engine should I go with??
ORIGINAL: DS002
My plan is once my 2V gets well into the 100K mile range Ill look into swapping a termi motor in as the stock motor gets tired. Im basically starting with a GT but hopefully when all is said and done Ill have a cobra minus the SVT certificate.
My plan is once my 2V gets well into the 100K mile range Ill look into swapping a termi motor in as the stock motor gets tired. Im basically starting with a GT but hopefully when all is said and done Ill have a cobra minus the SVT certificate.
anywhoo, the aluminator is capable of 700whp safely, this should get you into the 10s easily, but the half the battle is suspension and tires, you would actually be better off with the SRA in the GT (solid rear Axel) which is better for the track, IRS get damaged quite frequently but on the road IRS is 100x better.Back to the aluminator, it comes at 10.0:1 compression( for non super charged applications) and 8.5:1 for applications where you plan to supercharge. The N/A (Naturally Aspirated) one is 5400 or 5600, which is everything, minus the intake? the S/C ready one(8.5:1) is 6200-6400, either of them are great deals, and they come with sweet blue valve covers.
07-21-2008, 01:40 AM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,731
RE: Which engine should I go with??
ORIGINAL: SVTeeshirt
WRONG! you would also have to throw in a new tranny ofc IRS( independent Rear suspension) and New brakes the whole way around, the engine isn't the only thing thats different from the GTs and Termis.. theres a few more little things you would also have to swap. My suggestion is the Aluminator, it is basically the Termi engine but with an aluminum block and no S/c. they sell them on E-bay with free shipping through an ebay store located in Flordia, he has over 300 sales all are positive ive looked though the items and he has sold quite a few complete engines and a bunch of other car parts.
anywhoo, the aluminator is capable of 700whp safely, this should get you into the 10s easily, but the half the battle is suspension and tires, you would actually be better off with the SRA in the GT (solid rear Axel) which is better for the track, IRS get damaged quite frequently but on the road IRS is 100x better.Back to the aluminator, it comes at 10.0:1 compression( for non super charged applications) and 8.5:1 for applications where you plan to supercharge. The N/A (Naturally Aspirated) one is 5400 or 5600, which is everything, minus the intake? the S/C ready one(8.5:1) is 6200-6400, either of them are great deals, and they come with sweet blue valve covers.
ORIGINAL: DS002
My plan is once my 2V gets well into the 100K mile range Ill look into swapping a termi motor in as the stock motor gets tired. Im basically starting with a GT but hopefully when all is said and done Ill have a cobra minus the SVT certificate.
My plan is once my 2V gets well into the 100K mile range Ill look into swapping a termi motor in as the stock motor gets tired. Im basically starting with a GT but hopefully when all is said and done Ill have a cobra minus the SVT certificate.
anywhoo, the aluminator is capable of 700whp safely, this should get you into the 10s easily, but the half the battle is suspension and tires, you would actually be better off with the SRA in the GT (solid rear Axel) which is better for the track, IRS get damaged quite frequently but on the road IRS is 100x better.Back to the aluminator, it comes at 10.0:1 compression( for non super charged applications) and 8.5:1 for applications where you plan to supercharge. The N/A (Naturally Aspirated) one is 5400 or 5600, which is everything, minus the intake? the S/C ready one(8.5:1) is 6200-6400, either of them are great deals, and they come with sweet blue valve covers.
Why would you have to swap in an IRS? you wouldn't need to swap in an IRS, the only thing he would have to get is the correct stuff to line up his transmission, he doesn't need to completely revamp the whole car. Hell if he had the time, he could just buy the heads and stuff, the ecu, the rotating assembly, and all the little crap, and he would have a termi engine.
I want to know where on earth you would think that you have to change brakes just because you swapped engines. This isn't a FWD car, there is no transaxle, and no reason to do such a thing.
oh, and by the way, the alluminator is capable of well over 1000rwhp, but great information there bud.