New shock set-up, Jazzer might get angry.
09-19-2009, 06:34 AM
#21
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Yup 
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 09-19-2009 at 06:36 AM.
09-19-2009, 02:27 PM
#22
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
Yup
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
09-19-2009, 06:18 PM
#23
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
^ doesn't make sense on either issue, I'm afraid 
Take your rear wheel off and measure the back-space, so go ***HERE*** for instructions. Then, head over to AM and check the back-space measurements listed for each wheel and see how they compare.
As for CC plates NOT making up for 1.5" drop, something is wrong here. You can nearly make the adjustment with stock plates. What brand did you get and confirm they were installed correctly. Back when I had CC plates, they were originally installed 90° crooked! When I noticed, I brought it back and asked for a warranty repair for something un-related, but wanted to see if it would get noticed. Got my car back and noticed they were now correct. I said to the owner.... "The CC plates were installed incorrectly, huh?" "Yup... sorry 'bout that". Had a rookie on the job that day and was all fixed up.
Anyway, you can likely install camber bolts, but I think your plates are installed incorrectly or the shoppe is smokin' sumthin'.
Jazzer
Take your rear wheel off and measure the back-space, so go ***HERE*** for instructions. Then, head over to AM and check the back-space measurements listed for each wheel and see how they compare.
As for CC plates NOT making up for 1.5" drop, something is wrong here. You can nearly make the adjustment with stock plates. What brand did you get and confirm they were installed correctly. Back when I had CC plates, they were originally installed 90° crooked! When I noticed, I brought it back and asked for a warranty repair for something un-related, but wanted to see if it would get noticed. Got my car back and noticed they were now correct. I said to the owner.... "The CC plates were installed incorrectly, huh?" "Yup... sorry 'bout that". Had a rookie on the job that day and was all fixed up.
Anyway, you can likely install camber bolts, but I think your plates are installed incorrectly or the shoppe is smokin' sumthin'.
Jazzer
09-19-2009, 07:18 PM
#24
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
^ doesn't make sense on either issue, I'm afraid
Take your rear wheel off and measure the back-space, so go ***HERE*** for instructions. Then, head over to AM and check the back-space measurements listed for each wheel and see how they compare.
As for CC plates NOT making up for 1.5" drop, something is wrong here. You can nearly make the adjustment with stock plates. What brand did you get and confirm they were installed correctly. Back when I had CC plates, they were originally installed 90° crooked! When I noticed, I brought it back and asked for a warranty repair for something un-related, but wanted to see if it would get noticed. Got my car back and noticed they were now correct. I said to the owner.... "The CC plates were installed incorrectly, huh?" "Yup... sorry 'bout that". Had a rookie on the job that day and was all fixed up.
Anyway, you can likely install camber bolts, but I think your plates are installed incorrectly or the shoppe is smokin' sumthin'.
Jazzer
Take your rear wheel off and measure the back-space, so go ***HERE*** for instructions. Then, head over to AM and check the back-space measurements listed for each wheel and see how they compare.
As for CC plates NOT making up for 1.5" drop, something is wrong here. You can nearly make the adjustment with stock plates. What brand did you get and confirm they were installed correctly. Back when I had CC plates, they were originally installed 90° crooked! When I noticed, I brought it back and asked for a warranty repair for something un-related, but wanted to see if it would get noticed. Got my car back and noticed they were now correct. I said to the owner.... "The CC plates were installed incorrectly, huh?" "Yup... sorry 'bout that". Had a rookie on the job that day and was all fixed up.
Anyway, you can likely install camber bolts, but I think your plates are installed incorrectly or the shoppe is smokin' sumthin'.
Jazzer
These are the ones I have.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...plates-94.html
09-19-2009, 09:28 PM
#25
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
I've rolled Dozens of fenders over the years and not once have I EVER used a bat. That's ridiculous. I know lots of old people that were building hotrods in the 50's and they've all told me no one ever actually used a bat.
If Someone doesn't have the actual tool and want to do it themself, Here's how.
(This will not ruin your paint unless it's already in bad shape.)
Cover the outer side of the wheel well with blue painters tape.
Use a black marker to mark off the outer most points that you think that wont hit. (There's No reason to go any further than that.)
You'll need a 4x4 wooden block or suitable piece of wood. To act as a counter weight and to absorb the blows.
On the inner side lip you'll be using a dead blow/rubber mallet to hit the lip (IN SMALL INCREMENTS) Start in the center and work your way down in either direction. Only fold in as far as you have to. Nothins worse then seeing a wheel well lip look like a hare lip.
If Someone doesn't have the actual tool and want to do it themself, Here's how.
(This will not ruin your paint unless it's already in bad shape.)
Cover the outer side of the wheel well with blue painters tape.
Use a black marker to mark off the outer most points that you think that wont hit. (There's No reason to go any further than that.)
You'll need a 4x4 wooden block or suitable piece of wood. To act as a counter weight and to absorb the blows.
On the inner side lip you'll be using a dead blow/rubber mallet to hit the lip (IN SMALL INCREMENTS) Start in the center and work your way down in either direction. Only fold in as far as you have to. Nothins worse then seeing a wheel well lip look like a hare lip.
Yup
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
The idea is to put the bat between the tire and fender and have someone roll the car forward very slowly and the bat will push against the tire and gently roll the fender as it moves along. Of course, one has to be very carefull that the section of the bat is not too fat and push the fender outward. I have never done this, but many others have.
As for new wheels and being even wider than your current... not necessarily
One has to consider the back-space of the wheels in question. A proper BS for an SN95/New Edge Stang is going to be 6.8" (give/take a bit) so use this measurement to compare to existing wheels to confirm proper fitment. I run a 10.5" wheel (since widened to 11") and run a 1/2" spacer and have no rubbing. I have MAJOR fender rollin' goin' on in front/back though. I actually used tin-snips to cut much of the fender lip out of the way up front. My fronts are nearly as rolled as an S197 is from the factory.
Jazzer
Last edited by Sxynerd; 09-19-2009 at 09:32 PM.
09-19-2009, 11:12 PM
#26
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
I've rolled Dozens of fenders over the years and not once have I EVER used a bat. That's ridiculous. I know lots of old people that were building hotrods in the 50's and they've all told me no one ever actually used a bat.
If Someone doesn't have the actual tool and want to do it themself, Here's how.
(This will not ruin your paint unless it's already in bad shape.)
Cover the outer side of the wheel well with blue painters tape.
Use a black marker to mark off the outer most points that you think that wont hit. (There's No reason to go any further than that.)
You'll need a 4x4 wooden block or suitable piece of wood. To act as a counter weight and to absorb the blows.
On the inner side lip you'll be using a dead blow/rubber mallet to hit the lip (IN SMALL INCREMENTS) Start in the center and work your way down in either direction. Only fold in as far as you have to. Nothins worse then seeing a wheel well lip look like a hare lip.
If Someone doesn't have the actual tool and want to do it themself, Here's how.
(This will not ruin your paint unless it's already in bad shape.)
Cover the outer side of the wheel well with blue painters tape.
Use a black marker to mark off the outer most points that you think that wont hit. (There's No reason to go any further than that.)
You'll need a 4x4 wooden block or suitable piece of wood. To act as a counter weight and to absorb the blows.
On the inner side lip you'll be using a dead blow/rubber mallet to hit the lip (IN SMALL INCREMENTS) Start in the center and work your way down in either direction. Only fold in as far as you have to. Nothins worse then seeing a wheel well lip look like a hare lip.
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