BULDING A MONSTER!
09-21-2009, 04:01 PM
#21
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
According to MMR it is, rather easy actually. Full Long Block for about 7k, blower friendly compression, TF heads, Comp Cams, they quoted me at 375-400 rwhp. This is with a setup that I can SAFELY add a KB to after its in. Imagine if they upp the compression a bit more and changed the cams to prepare it for just N/A. We are talkin 400-425rwhp...thats sexy.
09-21-2009, 05:29 PM
#22
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Yadkin, Nc
Posts: 5,183
please guys lets not get started on the n/a 2v thing again. we've seen 355 with unmatched heads and cams. i think 375 is reasonable or a nicely built n/a 2v. i dont see why a well built 11.1 or 12.1 compression and a bottom end capable of reving to 7k+ couldnt hit 400rwhp.
im sick, i'll type more later
im sick, i'll type more later
09-21-2009, 05:40 PM
#23
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 1,956
please guys lets not get started on the n/a 2v thing again. we've seen 355 with unmatched heads and cams. i think 375 is reasonable or a nicely built n/a 2v. i dont see why a well built 11.1 or 12.1 compression and a bottom end capable of reving to 7k+ couldnt hit 400rwhp.
im sick, i'll type more later
im sick, i'll type more later
09-21-2009, 06:44 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 2,402
put it back together and supercharge it
first step is send the block to the hot tank
once its back paint it to prevent rust
buy all new bearings and put them in *cam bearing requires a special tool...machine shop can install the bearings for you*
get forged rods and pistions and have your rotating assembly balanced
set ring gap accordingly based on your FI plans, if you have any
i would buy new timing components, sans chains *they should work fine*
trickflow heads and cms stage 4 cams
p51 intake manifold, or a kenne bell
theres so many options....how much do you have to spend? you could drop $1500 in that motor and have it running or you could drop 15 grand into it and have it running...its all up to you...but for 400hp, you can leave the stock rotating assembly in it to save a lot of money, and then supercharge or spray it
first step is send the block to the hot tank
once its back paint it to prevent rust
buy all new bearings and put them in *cam bearing requires a special tool...machine shop can install the bearings for you*
get forged rods and pistions and have your rotating assembly balanced
set ring gap accordingly based on your FI plans, if you have any
i would buy new timing components, sans chains *they should work fine*
trickflow heads and cms stage 4 cams
p51 intake manifold, or a kenne bell
theres so many options....how much do you have to spend? you could drop $1500 in that motor and have it running or you could drop 15 grand into it and have it running...its all up to you...but for 400hp, you can leave the stock rotating assembly in it to save a lot of money, and then supercharge or spray it
09-21-2009, 07:34 PM
#25
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
One of our new additions to the CMS camshaft lineup! CMS Stage 4 N/A cams are designed for the new Trick Flow 2V heads. These cams offer aggressive N/A race only performance. Aggressive idle. 3500-7500+ rpm. Likes 4.10 gear or better and 3800+ stall in auto's. PTV clearance must be checked and pistons MUST have valve reliefs. MUST BE TUNED AFTER INSTALL.
.590"/.600" lift, 244/249 .050 duration, 109 LSA
.590"/.600" lift, 244/249 .050 duration, 109 LSA
they make power at 3500...sure you will lose some off the bottom, but if youre revving to 7500 on a built motor, once you shift youre right back into your powerband around 3-4k
Last edited by 99BlackPonyGT; 09-21-2009 at 07:37 PM.
09-21-2009, 08:52 PM
#26
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 154
You should buy the Ford maintenance manual. I did exactly the same thing you're doing now, and it took me about a year; that was just working whenever I had a chance to come home from college. Read a lot, ask as many questions as you could. I'll rather ask silly questions that have my engine blow on me. The ford manual will help you with the basics, but for installation look up step by step on google and youtube. Don't rush, and the most important thing enjoy the process. I spend about $2500 on engine parts along.
09-21-2009, 09:15 PM
#27
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Yadkin, Nc
Posts: 5,183
me. my dream is 11's n/a in a 2v. and still be DD'able. call me crazy but thats my goal for this car.( next car with be a sc'ed mach 1 ) and when i bust someones anus who just threw a KB on and called it a day..well, i wont brag. haha but yea i have a ways to go before i can say anything.
09-22-2009, 08:01 AM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
Well, considering that "totally stock" GT with a KB would be making any more power than the N/A motor...stomped is not the word I would use. Plus, this was WITH blower friendly compression AND cams, specifically for the addition of a KB after the motor is installed.
09-22-2009, 08:52 AM
#29
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 615
me. my dream is 11's n/a in a 2v. and still be DD'able. call me crazy but thats my goal for this car.( next car with be a sc'ed mach 1 ) and when i bust someones anus who just threw a KB on and called it a day..well, i wont brag. haha but yea i have a ways to go before i can say anything.
09-22-2009, 09:09 AM
#30
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,797
400rwhp in a well setup car would embarrass alot of cars here that make more power. It would be fun, but why wouldn't you want to spend that same 7-10K and make 600 with FI?
I can assure you FI will make the car alot more streetable.
I can assure you FI will make the car alot more streetable.