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-   -   going to look at 99 gt (https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-general-discussion/564303-going-to-look-at-99-gt.html)

paintball1 09-24-2009 12:35 AM

going to look at 99 gt
 
going to look at a 99 gt auto, how can i tell if the auto is going bad? see if its slipping or doesn't shift right? also he told me that it has a superchip and programmer and i told him to put it back to stock settings so i could run 87. if he used a programmer and its set to 93 or 91 and i put 87 in am i hurting the engine or just will get ****ty mpg. He told me he gets 180 a tank, that seems real low for a basically stock GT with stock gears. It has a off road H pipe so its throwing a cel code maybe thats why its so low. beacuse my 00 GT manual gets at least 255 a tank

MJH78 09-24-2009 06:51 AM

yes you can damage the engine running 87 when it's tuned for higher octane.

mustangdad 09-24-2009 07:10 AM

As for checking the trans you can still get fooled but heres the best way without pulling the pan and/or taking it to a trans shop. First of all when you see the car request that it be completely cold not warmed up or prior driven when you get there. From cold check fluid level should be lower than full hot then start minimum warm up drive off listen and feel shift timing and firmness at various speeds and engine loads. Continue until warmed up. After warm up check fluid level again. drive and compare shift patterns and feel from cold. Get the car up to over 45-50 mph and watch the tach for torque converter lock up- about a 200 mph decrease in rpms after 4th gear- while holding the throttle and speed steady lightly tap the brake pedal- the rpms should rise about 200 rpm's indicating the torque converter clutch is disengaging. let go of the brake and maintain speed and the clutch should eventually lock up again decreasing the rpms by about 200. No shudder or rumble strip effect should occur or the car needs a converter. These are pulse width modulated converters and do not simply go on and off like older AOD's. The converters engage in electrical stages to avoid the chug felt on older AOD's thats why these are AODE's the E is electrical. good luck.

reznap 09-24-2009 10:42 AM


Originally Posted by mustangdad (Post 6520551)
As for checking the trans.....

Really great post, thanks for the info mustangdad

Xemeth 09-24-2009 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by mustangdad (Post 6520551)
As for checking the trans you can still get fooled but heres the best way without pulling the pan and/or taking it to a trans shop. First of all when you see the car request that it be completely cold not warmed up or prior driven when you get there. From cold check fluid level should be lower than full hot then start minimum warm up drive off listen and feel shift timing and firmness at various speeds and engine loads. Continue until warmed up. After warm up check fluid level again. drive and compare shift patterns and feel from cold. Get the car up to over 45-50 mph and watch the tach for torque converter lock up- about a 200 mph decrease in rpms after 4th gear- while holding the throttle and speed steady lightly tap the brake pedal- the rpms should rise about 200 rpm's indicating the torque converter clutch is disengaging. let go of the brake and maintain speed and the clutch should eventually lock up again decreasing the rpms by about 200. No shudder or rumble strip effect should occur or the car needs a converter. These are pulse width modulated converters and do not simply go on and off like older AOD's. The converters engage in electrical stages to avoid the chug felt on older AOD's thats why these are AODE's the E is electrical. good luck.

Good post, but the AODE isn't used in these cars. It's the 4R70W.

cliffyk 09-24-2009 01:13 PM

In 2002 Ford switched to the 4R75W (4-speed, RWD, number assigned by Ford, Wide ratio gears. The "75" has a higher torque capacity.

SVTeeshirt 09-24-2009 02:54 PM

i wouldn't touch if its getting 10mpg, not to mention in MD you know that CEL isn't gonna pass emissions and neither is the O/R pipe so i hope u have a catted pipe.

Why don't you just shell out the extra money once and buy a cobra or a mach, or a really clean GT, stop buying and selling cars.

99BlackPonyGT 09-24-2009 02:57 PM


Originally Posted by SVTeeshirt (Post 6521539)
i wouldn't touch if its getting 10mpg, not to mention in MD you know that CEL isn't gonna pass emissions and neither is the O/R pipe so i hope u have a catted pipe.

Why don't you just shell out the extra money once and buy a cobra or a mach, or a really clean GT, stop buying and selling cars.

hes shelling out the extra already...9k for a 99gt, only 80k...it must be good right?

and he wont be buying and selling this one...its the one he wants...its a phat tight whip dawg, stalker kit is up in dis thread

SVTeeshirt 09-24-2009 03:10 PM

lulz.

lilcrate 09-24-2009 03:12 PM


Originally Posted by 99BlackPonyGT (Post 6521546)
hes shelling out the extra already...9k for a 99gt, only 80k...it must be good right?

and he wont be buying and selling this one...its the one he wants...its a phat tight whip dawg, stalker kit is up in dis thread

Now he can get gansgta.


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