rebuild on 2v - stay na or sc pros and cons
10-13-2009, 08:03 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 1,956
OP
400RWHP with NA=$8,000 at a minimum.
Cons - Obnoxious street drivability. Absolutely no room to grow, your engine is already tapped for all its power. You have to rev your engine to the moon to see that power. Costs twice as much.
Pros - A really nice cammed up exhaust note(achievable with an S/C). You can say "I'm cool because my engine doesn't use compressed air"
400RWHP with FI=$3000 at a minimum.
Cons - None
Pros - Room go grow another 50-100RWHP depending on what SC you get, some have even more than 100RWHP over 400 to be gotten(with forged internals). Full boost at anywhere from 1/4th the RPMS to 1/2 the RPMs that a N/A engine needs to see to match that power. Way more street friendly. Costs half of an N/A build. Supercharger sounds badass, especially so with a Kenne Bell.
Choice is yours.
Last edited by Hangwire; 10-13-2009 at 08:05 PM.
10-13-2009, 08:16 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,700
Then you'll want more. Trust me.. you will.
10-13-2009, 08:21 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location:
Posts: 3,189
if this is a DD stay away from NA. when you get into heads and cams and all that stuff, your daily driving goes down the toilet. you have zero power down low and end up burning alot of gas just to get moving. you will spend thousands of dollars and probably wont even hit 400 engine hp.
you can sc your car for half of what your thinking. a used centri blower kit can be had for 2 grand or less. it will have little affect on your daily driving (some hp is robbed by the extra pulley on your accessory belt but not much). if you want a KB plan on 5-6 grand but it will be alot more fun to drive with a KB over a centri blower.
and around 450 engine horsepower (not wheel hp) is the breaking point on the rods, no where near 600. rods are the weakest point on our motors. our cranks arent bad but the rods are like pencils.
you can sc your car for half of what your thinking. a used centri blower kit can be had for 2 grand or less. it will have little affect on your daily driving (some hp is robbed by the extra pulley on your accessory belt but not much). if you want a KB plan on 5-6 grand but it will be alot more fun to drive with a KB over a centri blower.
and around 450 engine horsepower (not wheel hp) is the breaking point on the rods, no where near 600. rods are the weakest point on our motors. our cranks arent bad but the rods are like pencils.
Last edited by MU71L4710N; 10-13-2009 at 08:23 PM.
10-13-2009, 09:22 PM
#16
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Yadkin, Nc
Posts: 5,183
i have a feeling this is gonna turn into a na vs sc thread.
But IMO Trevors and 01GT's cars are much cooler than and no offense, the sc'ed guys car. i just like how they are the "underdogs" and with like 300rwhp they run low 12's. but yea im not denying that your gonna dump alot of money into the na route vs sc. but what it boils down too in almost every thread in this forum is WHAT YOU WANT OUT OF YOUR CAR. most of us just tell you the best way to get the most hp per $$..and thats a supercharger or Nitrous.
/rant hahaha
But IMO Trevors and 01GT's cars are much cooler than and no offense, the sc'ed guys car. i just like how they are the "underdogs" and with like 300rwhp they run low 12's. but yea im not denying that your gonna dump alot of money into the na route vs sc. but what it boils down too in almost every thread in this forum is WHAT YOU WANT OUT OF YOUR CAR. most of us just tell you the best way to get the most hp per $$..and thats a supercharger or Nitrous.
/rant hahaha
10-13-2009, 09:39 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Memphis
Posts: 2,377
Haha definitely. There is always nitrous if he did a crazy N/A build and wanted more. The 2v is a pig unfortunately and it's just hard to make motor power. I think a 4v head swap would be more cost effective but that's a whole nother game!
Get the trick flow heads, some nice but not to aggressive cams, and a 10 : 1 or so compression and run her to 8000 and enjoy it.
To those that say N/A isn't streetable I DD mine.
Get the trick flow heads, some nice but not to aggressive cams, and a 10 : 1 or so compression and run her to 8000 and enjoy it.
To those that say N/A isn't streetable I DD mine.
10-14-2009, 07:51 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 130
Talk about peer pressure! Somehow I was trying to convince myself I could get enough power NA and supercharger would just leave me spinning anyway. What was I thinking?
Another day gone by and KB is in the lead. Really want that low end torque. Like they say no replacement for displacement......even if its artificial.
I'm thinking the 600 hp breaking point I heard about was the crank. I guess I'll shell out extra for quality rods and pistons.
Bonus is I can move fwd with my rebuild before I have to save for all the NA goodies!
Another day gone by and KB is in the lead. Really want that low end torque. Like they say no replacement for displacement......even if its artificial.
I'm thinking the 600 hp breaking point I heard about was the crank. I guess I'll shell out extra for quality rods and pistons.
Bonus is I can move fwd with my rebuild before I have to save for all the NA goodies!
10-14-2009, 08:25 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 2,402
well our rods are actually the weakest part. they go at 450. i tihnk our pistons start to go around 500.
I personally am staying naturally aspirated. i just like the thought of a high reving motor going down the strip and maybe suprising a few people. Im gonna rework my bottom end and get some TF head friendly cams and see if she wont make 380rwhp+. and still be a DD.
I personally am staying naturally aspirated. i just like the thought of a high reving motor going down the strip and maybe suprising a few people. Im gonna rework my bottom end and get some TF head friendly cams and see if she wont make 380rwhp+. and still be a DD.
You will hear from people on the board that they are running 10 psi or 12 psi on stock bottom end but don't recommend it. In terms of what the correct power level is depends on the tune but also how you drive your car. So, 370-380 rwhp with a good tune you can drive the **** off of your car.
