Replacing my ignition in 2004 gt convertible with SOHC
12-13-2009, 02:41 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 8
Replacing my ignition in 2004 gt convertible with SOHC
I'm gonna replace my ignition. Do I also need to replace my distributor ignition pickup and or ignition control module and or coil connectors?
thnx in advance
mike in addison texas usa north america earth milky way galaxy
thnx in advance
mike in addison texas usa north america earth milky way galaxy
12-13-2009, 03:00 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 8
i do have a Hayne's and thnx dude. my goal is not to upgrade my ignition,merely to replace it with a Motorcraft replacment part. When i did a search for 'ignition' on http://www.rockauto.com and http://www.motorcraft.com in addition to the ignition,it spit out those other items I mentioned-had no fn clue if my stang had or needed those thangs too.
thnx again
mIkE
thnx again
mIkE
12-13-2009, 08:46 AM
#8
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Why do you wish to "replace" your ignition, are you having problems?
If you have fewer than 90k miles on the car, and are not having any problems, then there's nothing that needs to be replaced. The spark plugs will need to be changed at 100k miles (60k if severe service) per the published maintenance schedule (click here).
12-15-2009, 09:47 AM
#10
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
All that said, I have to admit that changed my plugs at 55k...
Make sure you have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, like this one from HF¹. The torque spec is 11-13 lbft (132-156 lbin). which places the desired torque within 60% to 70% of a typical 1/4" wrench's range--where it will be most accurate.
A typical 3/8" drive wrench could be used with acceptable loss of accuracy but you'll be in the lower 15% of its range which is not optimal.
However using a 1/2" drive wrench is not recommended and is likely not even better than nothing, as you'll be in the lower 8% of its range and could easily be off by +/- 3-4 lbft--not good for tapered seat plugs in an aluminum head.
There will be those who insist "You don't need no stinkin' torque wrench"--you need to ask yourself "Do I feel lucky today?"...
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¹ - At one time I would not have trusted an Asian import torque wrench enough to use it on a lawn mower, but those days are gone. As with many other Asian products the quality of the imported "clicker" torque wrenches is more than adequate for shade-tree use, and not far from being acceptable for professional use.
Make sure you have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, like this one from HF¹. The torque spec is 11-13 lbft (132-156 lbin). which places the desired torque within 60% to 70% of a typical 1/4" wrench's range--where it will be most accurate.
A typical 3/8" drive wrench could be used with acceptable loss of accuracy but you'll be in the lower 15% of its range which is not optimal.
However using a 1/2" drive wrench is not recommended and is likely not even better than nothing, as you'll be in the lower 8% of its range and could easily be off by +/- 3-4 lbft--not good for tapered seat plugs in an aluminum head.
There will be those who insist "You don't need no stinkin' torque wrench"--you need to ask yourself "Do I feel lucky today?"...
------------------------------------------
¹ - At one time I would not have trusted an Asian import torque wrench enough to use it on a lawn mower, but those days are gone. As with many other Asian products the quality of the imported "clicker" torque wrenches is more than adequate for shade-tree use, and not far from being acceptable for professional use.