Aftermarket Upgrades and Check engine light
#11
ya i am in cali thats why I created this post. Not only does it need to be smogged every other year but It must pass inspection witch includes checking if the c.e.l. is tripped. and dont even get me started on the gun laws here
Last edited by Steeduh46gt; 01-06-2010 at 02:39 AM.
#12
You kno I think is would be a better choice to just go with the steeda underdrive pulleys first, then Il worry about the CAI. Ive seen the steeda intakes that include the MAF sensor connection.
Last edited by Steeduh46gt; 01-06-2010 at 02:42 AM.
#13
Here in CA, if you do end up doing a midpipe, save the money and get an o/r one and switch the factory piece back on for emissions. It's not a bad job to do, only maybe an hour of rolling around on the garage floor (including the 10 minutes that you just stare at it before actually getting started), or about 25 minutes if you have a lift (also includes that 10 minutes as previously mentioned). And I think the differences the above posts are saying, in relation to hp gains on catted vs. o/r pipes, apply to the aftermarket versions of both. I think that regardless of which one you get, there will be a noticeable (not dramatic, but still noticeable) gain in power over the stock piece.
#14
While I have never done back-to-back cat/no-cat tests on a 4.5L 2V, I did do such tests on a 1.6L supercharged Miata using a "test pipe" and the cheapest FLAPS cat we could find--there was no discernible difference in power right up to 7500 rpm. This was done with a 4-2-1 header, and 2-1/4" exhaust.
If anyone has dyno proof of power gained by cats vs. no-cats (back-to-back, cat/no-cat only--not going from an OEM catted pipe to a 2-1/2" o/r pipe) I'd enjoy seeing them.
As to buying a tuner¹, opening up the exhaust is the only thing I would recommend be done before getting a tuner. The OEM tune is pathetic, built to meet EPA emissions standards while running 87 octane fuel, and make sure you cannot damage the motor while it's under warranty.
This is why the first thing every 87 octane canned tune I've ever seen immediately adds 2° to the Global Spark Adder, another 2° across the upper end of the Spark Borderline table, and leans out the Stabilised Open Loop Fuel table by 3-4% at the higher load/rpm ranges. If you think changes like that do not make more power you need to study up on engine management.
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¹ - Note I said buying a tuner, and obviously learning how to use it--not having a tune done at a shop. I agree that if you do not have the tools and knowledge to tune it yourself then it probably makes sense to drive about hobbled by the OEM tune until such time as you feel the time has come...
If anyone has dyno proof of power gained by cats vs. no-cats (back-to-back, cat/no-cat only--not going from an OEM catted pipe to a 2-1/2" o/r pipe) I'd enjoy seeing them.
As to buying a tuner¹, opening up the exhaust is the only thing I would recommend be done before getting a tuner. The OEM tune is pathetic, built to meet EPA emissions standards while running 87 octane fuel, and make sure you cannot damage the motor while it's under warranty.
This is why the first thing every 87 octane canned tune I've ever seen immediately adds 2° to the Global Spark Adder, another 2° across the upper end of the Spark Borderline table, and leans out the Stabilised Open Loop Fuel table by 3-4% at the higher load/rpm ranges. If you think changes like that do not make more power you need to study up on engine management.
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¹ - Note I said buying a tuner, and obviously learning how to use it--not having a tune done at a shop. I agree that if you do not have the tools and knowledge to tune it yourself then it probably makes sense to drive about hobbled by the OEM tune until such time as you feel the time has come...
I don't know about you guys but I think you did your converting from CI to L wrong... a 281 2v def does not convert to 4.5 L, not even from rounding. 281 CI is equivalent to 4.6004466 L ROUNDED is 4.6L.
Just thought I'd put it out there...
#15
As I understand it aftermarket catted mid-pipes are not CARB approved so you will still fail the visual inspection with them.
#16
OH GOD!!! THE WORLD AS WE KNOW IT IS GOING TO END!!! Someone(a newb) is calling Ciffyk out on a simple typo!!! Dear Lord have mercy on his soul...he didnt know any better. He just mistyped it and didnt edit the post. the 5 key and the 6 key are pretty close on the keypad.
#17
Maybe he's never been to cliffyk's web site. It has some of the best information I've ever seen.
http://www.paladinmicro.com/PalMFrame00.htm?wks=
#18
I dont think he knows he just called out probably the most knowledgeable member that actively posts on here. lol over a typo no less. It is called the 4.6 GENERAL DISCUSSION for a reason...and i think cliffy knows where he is posting.
#19
alright sorry guys i had no idea that he is one of the smartest people on here, ive never heard of him or his website lol.
from where I live, people make the wrong conversions all the time - like a guy from my town with a ws6 trans am.sure is a 350, but he tried telling me its an 8.0l.
from where I live, people make the wrong conversions all the time - like a guy from my town with a ws6 trans am.sure is a 350, but he tried telling me its an 8.0l.
#20
But not to call anyone out... but i just dont see how having no cats would affect hp? It just doesnt make sense to me, seems like by having no cats in the way u would ultimatly have a better free flowing pipe which to me seems will give more hp... But i could be wrong