cam and sc question
#1
cam and sc question
im itchin for some more power and was thinkin of puttin some cams in, was lookin at the CMS stage 2 cams. i really love the sound of havin a cammed car, and id appreciate the power, but my question is what if i decide to sc down the road? i see there are different cams for blower and NA builds, so if you have NA cams in and throw a blower on is there going to be a problem? or if i have blower cams and end up never puttin the blower on would it be a problem? also, im open to opinions on cams, they all seem to produce basically the same power so im not sure what one kind would be better than the other, im looking for a really aggressive sound but dont wanna sell myself short on power.
thanks in advance!
thanks in advance!
#2
CMS stage 2's are pretty agressive n/a cams. With that said you'll probably be okay if you keep the boost fairly low, but they will not be optimal. If you're strongly considering a blower, you should just buy blower cams. They will work fine n/a, but again they won't be optimal until you add the blower. You really should decide which way to go before you make a purchase.
Another thing to consider is ptv clearence. With the stock PI head motor you can't run very large cams without running the risk of ptv contact.
With that said you will running on the razors edge with those cams if installed at the advertised specs. To me it's not worth the risk. You could of course retard the intake centerline (but it will cost you power) replace the intake valve, or notch the pistons, and you'll be fine, but it's gonna cost a few bucks.
If you decide to get cams call Nick at Modular Head Shop, and he can further explain this in detail. I'll be doing cams through him when the time comes.
Another thing to consider is ptv clearence. With the stock PI head motor you can't run very large cams without running the risk of ptv contact.
With that said you will running on the razors edge with those cams if installed at the advertised specs. To me it's not worth the risk. You could of course retard the intake centerline (but it will cost you power) replace the intake valve, or notch the pistons, and you'll be fine, but it's gonna cost a few bucks.
If you decide to get cams call Nick at Modular Head Shop, and he can further explain this in detail. I'll be doing cams through him when the time comes.
#4
allllrighty...so if i decide to stay NA the CMS stage 2's may be a little large? what would a good cam be that i can just put it and have tuned and be on my way without feeling at risk, lets assume NA at this point
#5
Nick's stage 2 n/a cams would be a good choice, or you can just take your chances.
Here's the website.
http://www.modularheadshop.com/Cams.htm
Here's the website.
http://www.modularheadshop.com/Cams.htm
Last edited by mrtstang; 02-03-2010 at 06:09 PM.
#6
Stage 2 cams are a great choice if you want something streetable but still aggressive, but like said above, you're going to have to address ptv clearance. Without loosing power by retarding the cams, most people will notch the pistons. When doing a headswap, it's not that bad cuz you have to pull the heads anyway, but for you it'll cost more money to tear off and reinstall those components.
#7
damn dude, i love your car.. very clean
as for the cams, if you're uncertain about whether you'll put a s/c on your car down the road, get a good set of n/a cams. even with a blower down the road, n/a cams will make better power than the stock cams. if you know you want to go with a blower in the future, i'd just put off the cams for now and do it all at the same time.
as for the cams, if you're uncertain about whether you'll put a s/c on your car down the road, get a good set of n/a cams. even with a blower down the road, n/a cams will make better power than the stock cams. if you know you want to go with a blower in the future, i'd just put off the cams for now and do it all at the same time.
#8
Thanks!
46PI STAGE 2 - NATURALLY ASPIRATED 225/223 550/500 110/110 110
Max effort cam for stock PI heads, 5 speed or 3000 stall torque converter recommended. Crown Victoria/Marquis/Town Car, Thunderbird/Cougar, and trucks should have the torque converter changed. Rear gear of 3.73 minimum recommended.
If you have a PI head swapped vehicle with stock valves still in it, this is the cam for you!
would this imply that they would just be able to go into my stock heads, without changing valve springs, and without worrying about ptv clearance? if i would have to worry about the ptv clearance than may as well try to get new heads while im at it, or at least have work done to these factory ones...i originally figured if there was a cam i could just put in with my cousin (who has decent mechanic experience) and then drive drive slow to have tuned i would do that to save money and still get that sound, but if this is something that needs to be professionally installed, needs the valve springs changed (he said he wont do that), or it is highly recommended that i change the heads as well, than i may as well put that kinda money toward a S/C, since that seems to be the only way to get real power outta these cars...well, at least enough to keep up with these new stangs (5.0) =[
46PI STAGE 2 - NATURALLY ASPIRATED 225/223 550/500 110/110 110
Max effort cam for stock PI heads, 5 speed or 3000 stall torque converter recommended. Crown Victoria/Marquis/Town Car, Thunderbird/Cougar, and trucks should have the torque converter changed. Rear gear of 3.73 minimum recommended.
If you have a PI head swapped vehicle with stock valves still in it, this is the cam for you!
would this imply that they would just be able to go into my stock heads, without changing valve springs, and without worrying about ptv clearance? if i would have to worry about the ptv clearance than may as well try to get new heads while im at it, or at least have work done to these factory ones...i originally figured if there was a cam i could just put in with my cousin (who has decent mechanic experience) and then drive drive slow to have tuned i would do that to save money and still get that sound, but if this is something that needs to be professionally installed, needs the valve springs changed (he said he wont do that), or it is highly recommended that i change the heads as well, than i may as well put that kinda money toward a S/C, since that seems to be the only way to get real power outta these cars...well, at least enough to keep up with these new stangs (5.0) =[
#10
Thanks!
46PI STAGE 2 - NATURALLY ASPIRATED 225/223 550/500 110/110 110
Max effort cam for stock PI heads, 5 speed or 3000 stall torque converter recommended. Crown Victoria/Marquis/Town Car, Thunderbird/Cougar, and trucks should have the torque converter changed. Rear gear of 3.73 minimum recommended.
If you have a PI head swapped vehicle with stock valves still in it, this is the cam for you!
would this imply that they would just be able to go into my stock heads, without changing valve springs, and without worrying about ptv clearance? if i would have to worry about the ptv clearance than may as well try to get new heads while im at it, or at least have work done to these factory ones...i originally figured if there was a cam i could just put in with my cousin (who has decent mechanic experience) and then drive drive slow to have tuned i would do that to save money and still get that sound, but if this is something that needs to be professionally installed, needs the valve springs changed (he said he wont do that), or it is highly recommended that i change the heads as well, than i may as well put that kinda money toward a S/C, since that seems to be the only way to get real power outta these cars...well, at least enough to keep up with these new stangs (5.0) =[
46PI STAGE 2 - NATURALLY ASPIRATED 225/223 550/500 110/110 110
Max effort cam for stock PI heads, 5 speed or 3000 stall torque converter recommended. Crown Victoria/Marquis/Town Car, Thunderbird/Cougar, and trucks should have the torque converter changed. Rear gear of 3.73 minimum recommended.
If you have a PI head swapped vehicle with stock valves still in it, this is the cam for you!
would this imply that they would just be able to go into my stock heads, without changing valve springs, and without worrying about ptv clearance? if i would have to worry about the ptv clearance than may as well try to get new heads while im at it, or at least have work done to these factory ones...i originally figured if there was a cam i could just put in with my cousin (who has decent mechanic experience) and then drive drive slow to have tuned i would do that to save money and still get that sound, but if this is something that needs to be professionally installed, needs the valve springs changed (he said he wont do that), or it is highly recommended that i change the heads as well, than i may as well put that kinda money toward a S/C, since that seems to be the only way to get real power outta these cars...well, at least enough to keep up with these new stangs (5.0) =[
One thing you should strongly consider (no matter what cams you go with) is buying a set of matched cam gears from Nick. This way you'll eliminate the need for degreeing yours (which is a pita while the motor is in the car) and you'll get the absolute most out of the cams. Also this will be more cost effective (and much less tedious and time consuming) if paying someone to do it. This is the route i'll personally take when i do mine.
Last edited by mrtstang; 02-04-2010 at 09:34 AM.