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spec stage 1

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Old 03-09-2010, 11:55 PM
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kobe24
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Default spec stage 1

i just had a spec clutch installed on my 02 gt and leaving from a dead stop im getting alittle chadder. any idea's
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:59 PM
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Fizzics Boy
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Let it break in first. 500 miles of easy driving meaning no john force burnouts, powershifting, or anything like that. If its still doing it after that, then there is a problem with it. Just drive it nice and easy and it should go away.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:05 AM
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teej281
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true that...but do some searching on the topic of spec stage one's and see what you find...i'll never buy one.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:08 AM
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Bman2000
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sounds about right. on that subject tho, does that mean once the clutch is engaged you can give it full throttle? im assuming the easy break in has more to do with harsh engagement and slipping the clutch?
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:09 AM
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Bman2000
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a buddy has a stage 2...he says hed never buy a stage one, but the stage 2 is great. he has a stage 2plus now i think says it chatters a bit but not much.
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Old 03-10-2010, 12:34 AM
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Z28KLR
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My Stage 1 w/ alum. flywheel chatters lightly when engaging 1st or Reverse without adding any throttle, so to me your noise sounds normal if that's how it's happening for you too. Just a light touch of the gas and it goes away. Although I spent only about 5 minutes searching related threads here one time, the only thing negative I could really find about Spec clutches was related to bad tob's they supply in their kits. There's also a couple of people bitching about the same thing in the reviews section on AM's site. If I would have known about that earlier I would have replaced it with an oem bearing instead. After a little over 3K since having the clutch done, though, my tob is holding up fine so I guess I'm lucky, for now anyway.
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:45 AM
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teej281
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Ive heard of peoples Spec stg 1's being fried by like 1k miles or so. I just dont like spec clutches to begin with with their harder, quicker engagement. And to answer bmans question, i wouldnt go WOT with a new clutch til its broken in properly. If everything in there isnt sync'd up yet, it could cause your clutch to prematurely wear. I wouldnt go WOT for at least 500 miles or so of normal street driving.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:06 PM
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Z28KLR
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+ 1 to the "break in period" on any clutch. And not that Spec isn't capable of manufacturing a defective product, but I say 9.9 times out of 10 that anybody who fries any clutch in 1,000 miles either chose a clutch not well matched to their application or (more likely) just abused the sh*t out of it. Even a Centerforce or McLeod, which both come highly regarded in terms of quality and capability, no doubt could be destroyed fairly quick at even bolt-on power levels if you're out to prove you're a bigger ******* than everyone else on the road.
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:10 PM
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Bman2000
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so then how do you do a tuning dyno run with a new clutch?
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Old 03-10-2010, 10:19 PM
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Bman2000
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mainly im just wondering about that and inital break in? and what i dont get is why when you buy a new car it doesnt matter if you hammer the crap out of it from day one?
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