Got my gears installed
03-20-2010, 06:23 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 1,546
To heat cycle the metal. Ever heard of forged metal? Heat and cool, heat and cool, change your diff. fluid and friction modifier after break-in. You would'nt beat up a new motor w/ out break in would you? Let me know how it works out for u if you don't break them in. Of course I could be wrong.....
03-20-2010, 06:25 PM
#12
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,147
To heat cycle the metal. Ever heard of forged metal? Heat and cool, heat and cool, change your diff. fluid and friction modifier after break-in. You would'nt beat up a new motor w/ out break in would you? Let me know how it works out for u if you don't break them in. Of course I could be wrong.....
03-20-2010, 06:30 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 1,546
Well, there was also a thread sometime this week or last about how a new motor does not need break in time, not because its already broke in but running it hard right away is the best way to break in a motor. Something about piston rings and compression, haha, its all over my head
03-20-2010, 06:33 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,147
I am with you on being cautious. It is only 500 miles and that will be done in a few days. I would rather play it safe then have to spend more money on having it fixed.
03-20-2010, 06:36 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: louisiana
Posts: 172
I read that thread. was'nt it about a two stroke motorcycle break-in ? My last 3 motors (last year) built by my friend who works at a ford dealer recommended 2500-3000 miles before running consistent full throttle. He also has a 9 second Camaro. He told me to use Motorcraft oil in my LS1 motor. I may be paranoid, but i never broke in any vehicle I bought new off the lot..
03-20-2010, 06:46 PM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: louisiana
Posts: 172
My HEMI came with "break in oil" to be changed at 5000 miles per owners handbook. I figure it was some kind of synthetic. I really don't know, but it also recommended not driving above a certain rpm for 500 miles if I remember correctly. That was in 04'.
03-20-2010, 07:08 PM
#20
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
They should be heat cycled, this can be done on a lift or jackstands. You do 20 to 25 cycles of bringing them up to 50 or so in 4th gear and then coasting down while still in gear--spread this out over 30 to 40 minutes letting the rear end cool in between the run ups, and while monitoring the case temperature. This is not really related to heat treatment of the metal, but rather to ensure that things mesh properly when they heat up and expand--it also establishes the initial mating contact points under minimal load.
It's not 100% essential, however doing this will bring any pinion depth, ring backlash, or pinched bearing issues right to the forefront, right away, rather than 500 miles later.
It's not 100% essential, however doing this will bring any pinion depth, ring backlash, or pinched bearing issues right to the forefront, right away, rather than 500 miles later.