Educate me on kmembers
#22
hense why im going with MM, they made thiers for DD cars, everyone else seems to have just made them to be as light as possible, i talked to MM about this, basically he told me think about going over a pot hole, which tracks dont have, he said most of these really light k members arent designed for daily driving.. . And as far as i know i thought you had to swap k member and lower control arms?
#23
chromoly is a stronger material then mild steel. thats one reason when moly is generally used is with lightweight parts. the part is lighter because the tubing for example doesnt have to be as thick
#25
That's the problem. It's strong therefore has more tinsel strength making it more rigid and less forgiving. (which is why mild steel is better for the street.)
#26
I have seen way more k-members on street cars break that were made out of CM than those of mild steel. I dont care what the manufacturer says or who says their product is stronger than the other etc... If i see more of that product failing on street cars vs the other, i think ill use the other.
Edit: thanks for helping me explain nerd
Last edited by Tim99GT; 04-24-2010 at 07:38 PM.
#28
2 - QA1's
1 - UPR
and 1 - granatelli
all were CM and all the cars were designated street cars.....
Dont get me wrong, their great for track cars, but they don't take well to abuse on the street(pot holes/rough roads, etc..).
1 - UPR
and 1 - granatelli
all were CM and all the cars were designated street cars.....
Dont get me wrong, their great for track cars, but they don't take well to abuse on the street(pot holes/rough roads, etc..).
#29
tell them to buy a quality kmember. everyone knows qa1 and granatelli stuff is junk 98% of the time. i guess i better be careful with my moly front end moly k and moly trans mount and moly roll bar when its installed
#30