Bman2000

ok so im trying to figure out which clutch and flywheel will work with the t-56, dont want to f it up....so im pretty sure this flywheel will work fine...can anyone give me a clue on the 2 clutchs? Im looking for a dual friction, but i have no idea which size or shaft length? all i know about my t-56 is its 10 spline....help?



http://www.ddperformance.com/shop/pr...4cPath=109_101


http://www.jegs.com/i/Centerforce/183/DF800075/10002/-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-DF021057/

99 GT vert

it all depends on how big your fly wheel is not necessarily the transmission you have

teej281

well stock you had a 10.5" clutch, but since you got a t56, you probably should get an 11" clutch. And those two clutches above are identical i believe. And make sure for launching that you get a billet steel flywheel, not an aluminum one, unless you dont mind upping your launch rpm by 300-400.

Bman2000

i dont mind raising my launch RPM, as far as im concerned thats easy trade off for better power to the ground. And i thought between the 2 clutchs the shaft size was different? in anycase, i just didnt want to buy the wrong clutch. I know i can go either 10.5 or 11, since the flywheel will do both, but 11 has better holding power, but adds more rotating weight, at my power level i probebly dont need more than the 10.5

teej281

I'd get the 11", but thats just me. but a 1.0625" input shaft is the same as a 1 1/16" input shaft. lol But something that is a tradeoff is the fact that raising the launch rpm you might start spinning more as you raise the launch rpms. And also you can save some money going with steel over aluminum. But nice clutch choice man. Thats what i want if i keep stock power for a while.

Bman2000

oh...well that makes it easy...lol wasnt thinking about checking it, just thought there were 2 different 10 splines. As far as the flywheel, im making it light on purpose, same reason i wont go with the 11 inch. I dont really have HP to spare right now, so keeping the rotating mass down will help a lot. But you do have to launch differently. But your wrong about it causing spinning problems. You have to launch higher to make up for less inertia from the lighter flywheel, meaning that its basically an even trade off, your just as likly to spin with either clutch, but you are more likly to bog with the light one at least from what i understand.

My goal is solid mid 13s with my heavy 18s, which would put me somewhere in the 13.0 or 12.99 range with factory tires, and all with bolt ons a -t56 and 3.90s. Its a steep goal but i think if i can run a 2.0 60 that ill be close to that.

teej281

Just make sure that you know that the only motor thats going to benefit from an aluminum flywheel is an N/A motor and that blower/turbo cars run better with the steel flywheel. And if you dont already have one, you should get an aluminum driveshaft to save a hp or 2. lol

Bman2000

that is on the list, although since i have a steel DS that came with the tranny, ill be forced to use it for now. to be honest im not sure it matters what flywheel you run when you go FI but i could see how it would probebly be more comfortable to drive with that much power if you had a steel FW. but the article i read where they tested it on a drag car pretty much said everything is the same except for the launch, where you would need to in his case raise the launch rpm by 800.

Im not too worried about that since most of the time i didnt have enough traction to do much more than ease out of the hole, never could get the tires to stick over 1800ish.