$1200 Suspension Budget
#11
Or pickup this and and some FLSFC...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1247
#12
ok, here is what im going to suggest. this was actually the setup i was gonna do if i was on a budget this summer.
1. MM FLSFC's
2. Bilstein HD's
3. H&R SS springs or Race springs
4. MM C/C plates.
That should get you right around your goal of $1200 for suspension and it will handle a lot better than stock, but ride will be sacrificed but the stance will be sick!!! then after that you can add sway bars and eventually you can upgrade to coilovers and sell the lowering springs because the bilsteins are coilover ready and you already have the c/c plates needed to run coilovers. So there is my suggestion. I put a lot of time into researching and with some help from Jazzer, the suspension guru, I came up with that setup and I think that will work very very well for you. But with the suspension, you also have to do good tires to take full advantage of your new suspension. good luck man, let me or jazzer know if we can be of any assistance.
1. MM FLSFC's
2. Bilstein HD's
3. H&R SS springs or Race springs
4. MM C/C plates.
That should get you right around your goal of $1200 for suspension and it will handle a lot better than stock, but ride will be sacrificed but the stance will be sick!!! then after that you can add sway bars and eventually you can upgrade to coilovers and sell the lowering springs because the bilsteins are coilover ready and you already have the c/c plates needed to run coilovers. So there is my suggestion. I put a lot of time into researching and with some help from Jazzer, the suspension guru, I came up with that setup and I think that will work very very well for you. But with the suspension, you also have to do good tires to take full advantage of your new suspension. good luck man, let me or jazzer know if we can be of any assistance.
Hey Teej, which Shocks/Struts should I go with since I DD my car year round?
#13
Markus.... what is your ULTIMATE goal for your ride, irrespectful of your current budget?
It is VERY difficult to do suspension mods efficiently and not end up replacing something you thought was going to be good for you. UCA's are a perfect example of this and why I have pretty much stopped recommending aftermarket ones entirely. The Mustang 4-link rear suspension SUCKS... to put it bluntly, but if one is considering new UCA's, I say save your budget and be rid of them via PHB or WL and TA. As soon as you know you want performance suspension, the UCA's will ONLY detract from your goals!
For now.... I am with antiv6 and others, to say that FLSFC's are #1 for a performance mod of your ride. Second would be a good set of LCA's out back (this will allow you to completey remove the quad-shocks and help to achieve your goals). I know you want to lower it and get shocks/struts/springs, but if your ULTIMATE goals are AX and oval track work, you WILL end up replacing them with CO's one day and spend your money a second time!
I know your budget is not going to cover SFC's, LCA's and a full set of CO's, but would recommend you do only the first two items and save your money for the latter. I have replaced thousands of dollars in suspension components as I have gotten progressively more hardcore. Just yesterday, I replaced a broken PHB axle tube bracket and need to push your car extremely hard to break such a part as they were designed for race cars and the track. These replaced-mods were after 20 years of pure focus on cornering performance and STILL ended upgrading things and spending lots of money twice
If your goals are NOT soo high, that is fine, but be honest with yourself and allow your passion to be your guide
Jazzer
PS. Pretty much ALL suspension mods will create additional NVH, so be advised that your comfort level will suffer to some degree with nearly everything you mod for a performance oriented ride. See the Official Suspension Guide for just about everything you will need to know about the above and a legend to the terms commonly used.
It is VERY difficult to do suspension mods efficiently and not end up replacing something you thought was going to be good for you. UCA's are a perfect example of this and why I have pretty much stopped recommending aftermarket ones entirely. The Mustang 4-link rear suspension SUCKS... to put it bluntly, but if one is considering new UCA's, I say save your budget and be rid of them via PHB or WL and TA. As soon as you know you want performance suspension, the UCA's will ONLY detract from your goals!
For now.... I am with antiv6 and others, to say that FLSFC's are #1 for a performance mod of your ride. Second would be a good set of LCA's out back (this will allow you to completey remove the quad-shocks and help to achieve your goals). I know you want to lower it and get shocks/struts/springs, but if your ULTIMATE goals are AX and oval track work, you WILL end up replacing them with CO's one day and spend your money a second time!
I know your budget is not going to cover SFC's, LCA's and a full set of CO's, but would recommend you do only the first two items and save your money for the latter. I have replaced thousands of dollars in suspension components as I have gotten progressively more hardcore. Just yesterday, I replaced a broken PHB axle tube bracket and need to push your car extremely hard to break such a part as they were designed for race cars and the track. These replaced-mods were after 20 years of pure focus on cornering performance and STILL ended upgrading things and spending lots of money twice
If your goals are NOT soo high, that is fine, but be honest with yourself and allow your passion to be your guide
Jazzer
PS. Pretty much ALL suspension mods will create additional NVH, so be advised that your comfort level will suffer to some degree with nearly everything you mod for a performance oriented ride. See the Official Suspension Guide for just about everything you will need to know about the above and a legend to the terms commonly used.
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 06-13-2010 at 07:37 AM. Reason: speling erors
#14
Markus.... what is your ULTIMATE goal for your ride, irrespectful of your current budget?
It is VERY difficult to do suspension mods efficiently and not end up replacing something you thought was going to be good for you. UCA's are a perfect example of this and why I have pretty much stopped recommending aftermarket ones entirely. The Mustang 4-link rear suspension SUCKS... to put it bluntly, but if one is considering new UCA's, I say save your budget and be rid of them via PHB or WL and TA. As soon as you know you want performance suspension, the UCA's will ONLY detract from your goals!
For now.... I am with antiv6 and others, to say that FLSFC's are #1 for a performance mod of your ride. Second would be a good set of LCA's out back (this will allow you to completey remove the quad-shocks and help to achieve your goals). I know you want to lower it and get shocks/struts/springs, but if your ULTIMATE goals are AX and oval track work, you WILL end up replacing them with CO's one day and spend your money a second time!
I know your budget is not going to cover SFC's, LCA's and a full set of CO's, but would recommend you do only the first two items and save your money for the latter. I have replaced thousands of dollars in suspension components as I have gotten progressively more hardcore. Just yesterday, I replaced a broken PHB axle tube bracket and need to push your car extremely hard to break such a part as they were designed for race cars and the track. These replaced-mods were after 20 years of pure focus on cornering performance and STILL ended upgrading things and spending lots of money twice
If your goals are NOT soo high, that is fine, but be honest with yourself and allow your passion to be your guide
Jazzer
PS. Pretty much ALL suspension mods will create additional NVH, so be advised that your comfort level will suffer to some degree with nearly everything you mod for a performance oriented ride. See the Official Suspension Guide for just about everything you will need to know about the above and a legend to the terms commonly used.
It is VERY difficult to do suspension mods efficiently and not end up replacing something you thought was going to be good for you. UCA's are a perfect example of this and why I have pretty much stopped recommending aftermarket ones entirely. The Mustang 4-link rear suspension SUCKS... to put it bluntly, but if one is considering new UCA's, I say save your budget and be rid of them via PHB or WL and TA. As soon as you know you want performance suspension, the UCA's will ONLY detract from your goals!
For now.... I am with antiv6 and others, to say that FLSFC's are #1 for a performance mod of your ride. Second would be a good set of LCA's out back (this will allow you to completey remove the quad-shocks and help to achieve your goals). I know you want to lower it and get shocks/struts/springs, but if your ULTIMATE goals are AX and oval track work, you WILL end up replacing them with CO's one day and spend your money a second time!
I know your budget is not going to cover SFC's, LCA's and a full set of CO's, but would recommend you do only the first two items and save your money for the latter. I have replaced thousands of dollars in suspension components as I have gotten progressively more hardcore. Just yesterday, I replaced a broken PHB axle tube bracket and need to push your car extremely hard to break such a part as they were designed for race cars and the track. These replaced-mods were after 20 years of pure focus on cornering performance and STILL ended upgrading things and spending lots of money twice
If your goals are NOT soo high, that is fine, but be honest with yourself and allow your passion to be your guide
Jazzer
PS. Pretty much ALL suspension mods will create additional NVH, so be advised that your comfort level will suffer to some degree with nearly everything you mod for a performance oriented ride. See the Official Suspension Guide for just about everything you will need to know about the above and a legend to the terms commonly used.
Nice info as always and it's nice to see someone else post this on here.. everyone else swears by aftermarket uca's, then complain about ripped torque boxes and whatnot..
#15
Jazzer:
Just picked up some MM FLSFC's. Getting them put in this week I see from your above post that ^^ that FLSFC's & LCA's are the best things to do. What LCA's do you suggest and what (cliffs) does it do?
Thanks
PS: Or i really don't know what if anything i wanna do next here??? DD no plans for strip or X. Just want a quality ride mainly
And OP not trying to thread jack you here.... just wondering.
Just picked up some MM FLSFC's. Getting them put in this week I see from your above post that ^^ that FLSFC's & LCA's are the best things to do. What LCA's do you suggest and what (cliffs) does it do?
Thanks
PS: Or i really don't know what if anything i wanna do next here??? DD no plans for strip or X. Just want a quality ride mainly
And OP not trying to thread jack you here.... just wondering.
Last edited by sonicx; 06-13-2010 at 02:02 PM.
#16
Jazzer......
With the mods I have, as noted in sig, should I go ahead and remove my quad shocks? Besides losing 8lbs., what kind of difference in ride quality or characteristics should I notice with them removed? I might try this, and I guess in any worst case scenario I could just reinstall them. Btw, how did your pancakes turn out this morning?
And again, sorry for the threadjack OP; just saw an opportunity to ask a quick one.
#17
#20
As mentioned, I don't want to rip the OP's thread, but I think the issues here are very relevant to his question and within the bounds of the stated budget, so can hopefully pick up some needed info to make an informed decision:
The design of LCA's is the biggest part of the question here and I think the most important thing for those wanting them should understand. The fundamental issue with the Mustang 4-link rear suspenion is binding during articulation. This is one wheel up and one wheel down, such as body roll on a hard corner at speed or going up onto a steep incline from a level road at a 45* angle. When the axle articulates in this way, the LCA's are required to rotate along their length. The OEM ones are somewhat flexable stamped steel and the bushings are soft rubber. They make a nice ride, but don't allow a freedom of movement of the axle. The issue I have with boxed poly/poly LCA's is the even LESS freedom of movement they afford to the axle. In fact, for a DD car that sees aggressive cornering, they end up resisting soo much, the bushings will end up failing and the torque-boxes to, at some point.
The answer.... a spherical bearing on one end It is not as important on WHICH end it be, just that it has one. This bearing can be on a solid steel arm with absolutely NO flexablilty and will allow the axle to do its thing much better than an OEM and 1000 times better than a poly/poly ended one. As for which ones, this depends on the use they will see.
1. If you are a DD without any or limited 1/4 mile work with regular street tires, I like the UPR poly/spherical LCA's.
2. For DD and some 1/4 mile work on pretty sticky tires, I like MM HD LCA's.
3. For DD and VERY aggressive 1/4 mile work and serious sticky's..... go MM XD LCA's.
4. For adjustability and focus on AX or open track use, I like Griggs MCA 4500's
Jazzer......
With the mods I have, as noted in sig, should I go ahead and remove my quad shocks? Besides losing 8lbs., what kind of difference in ride quality or characteristics should I notice with them removed? I might try this, and I guess in any worst case scenario I could just reinstall them. Btw, how did your pancakes turn out this morning?
And again, sorry for the threadjack OP; just saw an opportunity to ask a quick one.
Dump the quads
Pancakes were WONDERFUL
Jazzer jackin'
Jazzer:
Just picked up some MM FLSFC's. Getting them put in this week I see from your above post that ^^ that FLSFC's & LCA's are the best things to do. What LCA's do you suggest and what (cliffs) does it do?
Thanks
PS: Or i really don't know what if anything i wanna do next here??? DD no plans for strip or X. Just want a quality ride mainly
And OP not trying to thread jack you here.... just wondering.
Just picked up some MM FLSFC's. Getting them put in this week I see from your above post that ^^ that FLSFC's & LCA's are the best things to do. What LCA's do you suggest and what (cliffs) does it do?
Thanks
PS: Or i really don't know what if anything i wanna do next here??? DD no plans for strip or X. Just want a quality ride mainly
And OP not trying to thread jack you here.... just wondering.
The answer.... a spherical bearing on one end It is not as important on WHICH end it be, just that it has one. This bearing can be on a solid steel arm with absolutely NO flexablilty and will allow the axle to do its thing much better than an OEM and 1000 times better than a poly/poly ended one. As for which ones, this depends on the use they will see.
1. If you are a DD without any or limited 1/4 mile work with regular street tires, I like the UPR poly/spherical LCA's.
2. For DD and some 1/4 mile work on pretty sticky tires, I like MM HD LCA's.
3. For DD and VERY aggressive 1/4 mile work and serious sticky's..... go MM XD LCA's.
4. For adjustability and focus on AX or open track use, I like Griggs MCA 4500's
Jazzer......
With the mods I have, as noted in sig, should I go ahead and remove my quad shocks? Besides losing 8lbs., what kind of difference in ride quality or characteristics should I notice with them removed? I might try this, and I guess in any worst case scenario I could just reinstall them. Btw, how did your pancakes turn out this morning?
And again, sorry for the threadjack OP; just saw an opportunity to ask a quick one.
Pancakes were WONDERFUL
Jazzer jackin'