Brakes
06-24-2010, 10:49 AM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 939
Go easy at first and make sure the stock rears can keep up with the larger fronts--if the front to rear "stopping power" balance is way off (I don't know that it will be) you could find the back wanting to spin around and become the "front" in a hard stop or when stopping on a slick road surface...
But, you're absolutly right about balance. The brakes are a system, not individual parts. The parts have to work together. If you make a significant change in the front, you need to do the same for the rear. I'm not sure the Bullet brakes are a significant enough change to be really noticable on the street.
06-24-2010, 11:06 AM
#12
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Actually, just the oppisite would happen. If the fronts are significantly better than the rears, the fronts will lock first. That's a good thing. That keeps the back end from becoming the front end. That's why many cars come from the factory with ABS on the rear only, with fronts as an option.
But, you're absolutly right about balance. The brakes are a system, not individual parts. The parts have to work together. If you make a significant change in the front, you need to do the same for the rear. I'm not sure the Bullet brakes are a significant enough change to be really noticable on the street.
But, you're absolutly right about balance. The brakes are a system, not individual parts. The parts have to work together. If you make a significant change in the front, you need to do the same for the rear. I'm not sure the Bullet brakes are a significant enough change to be really noticable on the street.
06-24-2010, 08:05 PM
#14
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Just get good pads, Hawk HPS is what I run and do AX, and you will be just fine on OEM rotors/pads
If you were to start hitting the oval and REALLY heating the brakes up and/or going on lots of repetitive hard stops, you would then want upgraded fluid and maybe ceramic pads.
Jazzer
If you were to start hitting the oval and REALLY heating the brakes up and/or going on lots of repetitive hard stops, you would then want upgraded fluid and maybe ceramic pads.
Jazzer
06-25-2010, 12:24 AM
#15
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,817
I have heard a lot of people regret using the stock GT/v6 upgrades such as slotted rotors with some performance pads. But i haven't really ever heard of a complaint of people going to cobra spec brakes.. Just saying..
i have the bullitt front brakes and mach rears and i LOVE the way to car brakes, but mostly, i love the way that the sponginess of the stock setup went away after changing out the brakes. Car stops MUCH harder than my buddies car with i guess stock pads and slotted rotors.. But if he got better pads, i am sure his car would stop almost as good as stock cobras...
Stock with a nice pad is probably all you need. But with 550hp, you can NEVER have enough braking power IMO
i have the bullitt front brakes and mach rears and i LOVE the way to car brakes, but mostly, i love the way that the sponginess of the stock setup went away after changing out the brakes. Car stops MUCH harder than my buddies car with i guess stock pads and slotted rotors.. But if he got better pads, i am sure his car would stop almost as good as stock cobras...
Stock with a nice pad is probably all you need. But with 550hp, you can NEVER have enough braking power IMO
06-25-2010, 11:39 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
This is what I did a while back when I needed pads replaced, in lieu of a "full on" upgrade that I didn't have the money for at the time. My car is only street driven, so other than the increased stopping power of new pads vs. scraping metal to metal on the inboard side of the old pads I can't say I noticed much difference. It is my understanding, though, that upgrading to braided lines and flushing out the old fluid (and maybe switch up to DOT-4 or 5) will give you a much more confident, less spongy pedal feel.
06-26-2010, 07:24 AM
#18
Your pushing over 550rwhp (nice) And your asking if you should have cobra brakes? YEAH! Heck, putting those brakes on any car (stock or fully modified) is gonna help you increase your stopping power. Should shorten up the number of feet it takes to stop. Plus it looks better. I mean your already gonna have to spent money on new pads & rotor 2:1 so why not upgrade to something better for a only a bit more money plus it looks good.
Calipers with brackets and pads ($249): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=689cPath=6
The capilers that say "cobra" are gonna cost: $279
Front rotors ($115): http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...roducts_id=787
Stainless brake lines for cobra brakes ($150): http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-...-lines-p-14968
Rear GT-to-Cobra conversion ($175): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=477cPath=6
Hardware set needed for install if you choose the calipers that say "Cobra" on them ($17): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=509cPath=6
Please note: Hardware set not needed for Bullitt or Mach 1 calipers.
You'll be okay just keeping your GT rear capilers, just by the rear conversion kit.
Calipers with brackets and pads ($249): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=689cPath=6
The capilers that say "cobra" are gonna cost: $279
Front rotors ($115): http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...roducts_id=787
Stainless brake lines for cobra brakes ($150): http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-...-lines-p-14968
Rear GT-to-Cobra conversion ($175): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=477cPath=6
Hardware set needed for install if you choose the calipers that say "Cobra" on them ($17): http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr..._id=509cPath=6
Please note: Hardware set not needed for Bullitt or Mach 1 calipers.
You'll be okay just keeping your GT rear capilers, just by the rear conversion kit.
06-26-2010, 04:37 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 6,817
I went for the upgrade to cobra specs bc i did it for $370 ALL AROUND w/ new pads... + it only costs a little bit more money to upgrade than to buy stock/aftermarket rotors and pads.
06-26-2010, 04:49 PM
#20
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
That is insane for me to understand lol. my stock dual pistons sucked. and you have single piston calipers up front.. I don't understand haha.
I went for the upgrade to cobra specs bc i did it for $370 ALL AROUND w/ new pads... + it only costs a little bit more money to upgrade than to buy stock/aftermarket rotors and pads.
I went for the upgrade to cobra specs bc i did it for $370 ALL AROUND w/ new pads... + it only costs a little bit more money to upgrade than to buy stock/aftermarket rotors and pads.
I.E. it takes no more braking power to stop a 550HP new-edge GT from 140MPH, that it would to stop a dead stock GT from 140MPH. In fact it could take less as the fellow with the 550HP may have also significantly lightened his car...
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¹ -The ONLY place HP enters the equation is that it could allow you to perform an increased number of repetitive stops, from perhaps higher speeds, in a given period of time--however if the driver chose not to do that the engine output becomes irrelevant.