Cutting stock antenna
06-28-2010, 10:55 AM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: KY, was MA
Posts: 2,797
The best way would be to take some floss like Mythbusters did when breaking out of jail. Once you have done that, go to a reputable welder and have him attach the ball making sure he gets the required penetration of the weld to secure the "ball".
Goodluck in your endeavour!
(small hack saw/dremel and superglue....)
Goodluck in your endeavour!
(small hack saw/dremel and superglue....)
06-28-2010, 12:43 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: California
Posts: 277
Reduced.
A proper antenna is not some arbitrary length of wire. It is a specific length for the operating frequency it is designed for. It must be a resonate length and match the impedance of the feed line and the input impedance of the receiver. At 98 Mhz (mid point of the FM broadcast band), a 1/4 wave antenna is 28.5 inches long and is resonate which allows the conversion of electromagnetic waves into electrical currents by the antenna. The 1/4 wave vertical antenna is about 75% efficient.
If you want to be shorter, the resonance can be mostly restored by using a coil. This is what those "rubber duck" short antennas attempt to do. Under the rubber, there is a lot of coil. But they are no match for the 1/4 wave in terms of performance.
For those who must cut, a 1/8 wave will be 14.3 inches. But doing so will result in only about 26% of the available electromagnetic energy being converted into electrical currents which the receiver needs. A 50% reduction from the stock antenna.
If you live in a metro area where the signals are strong you will not notice. If you live in fringe areas or out on the interstate, you most definitely will.
The best way to cut one is with a cut off wheel. (a very narrow grinding wheel)
A proper antenna is not some arbitrary length of wire. It is a specific length for the operating frequency it is designed for. It must be a resonate length and match the impedance of the feed line and the input impedance of the receiver. At 98 Mhz (mid point of the FM broadcast band), a 1/4 wave antenna is 28.5 inches long and is resonate which allows the conversion of electromagnetic waves into electrical currents by the antenna. The 1/4 wave vertical antenna is about 75% efficient.
If you want to be shorter, the resonance can be mostly restored by using a coil. This is what those "rubber duck" short antennas attempt to do. Under the rubber, there is a lot of coil. But they are no match for the 1/4 wave in terms of performance.
For those who must cut, a 1/8 wave will be 14.3 inches. But doing so will result in only about 26% of the available electromagnetic energy being converted into electrical currents which the receiver needs. A 50% reduction from the stock antenna.
If you live in a metro area where the signals are strong you will not notice. If you live in fringe areas or out on the interstate, you most definitely will.
The best way to cut one is with a cut off wheel. (a very narrow grinding wheel)
06-28-2010, 01:49 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,994
Reduced.
A proper antenna is not some arbitrary length of wire. It is a specific length for the operating frequency it is designed for. It must be a resonate length and match the impedance of the feed line and the input impedance of the receiver. At 98 Mhz (mid point of the FM broadcast band), a 1/4 wave antenna is 28.5 inches long and is resonate which allows the conversion of electromagnetic waves into electrical currents by the antenna. The 1/4 wave vertical antenna is about 75% efficient.
If you want to be shorter, the resonance can be mostly restored by using a coil. This is what those "rubber duck" short antennas attempt to do. Under the rubber, there is a lot of coil. But they are no match for the 1/4 wave in terms of performance.
For those who must cut, a 1/8 wave will be 14.3 inches. But doing so will result in only about 26% of the available electromagnetic energy being converted into electrical currents which the receiver needs. A 50% reduction from the stock antenna.
If you live in a metro area where the signals are strong you will not notice. If you live in fringe areas or out on the interstate, you most definitely will.
The best way to cut one is with a cut off wheel. (a very narrow grinding wheel)
A proper antenna is not some arbitrary length of wire. It is a specific length for the operating frequency it is designed for. It must be a resonate length and match the impedance of the feed line and the input impedance of the receiver. At 98 Mhz (mid point of the FM broadcast band), a 1/4 wave antenna is 28.5 inches long and is resonate which allows the conversion of electromagnetic waves into electrical currents by the antenna. The 1/4 wave vertical antenna is about 75% efficient.
If you want to be shorter, the resonance can be mostly restored by using a coil. This is what those "rubber duck" short antennas attempt to do. Under the rubber, there is a lot of coil. But they are no match for the 1/4 wave in terms of performance.
For those who must cut, a 1/8 wave will be 14.3 inches. But doing so will result in only about 26% of the available electromagnetic energy being converted into electrical currents which the receiver needs. A 50% reduction from the stock antenna.
If you live in a metro area where the signals are strong you will not notice. If you live in fringe areas or out on the interstate, you most definitely will.
The best way to cut one is with a cut off wheel. (a very narrow grinding wheel)
I'll second that...
06-28-2010, 02:19 PM
#17
I'll say to those of you who still listen to radio...invest in a pack of CD's at walmart and burn yourself some CD's to listen to. LOL better sound and you dont have to continue searching for radio stations every 20 miles or so that you travel.
I mean the investment in a shorty antenna and the CD's is well worth it to get rid of that stock whip of an antenna.
I mean the investment in a shorty antenna and the CD's is well worth it to get rid of that stock whip of an antenna.
06-28-2010, 04:23 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 113
I was going to say, use some electrical heat shrink wrap like you would use on a spliced wire conection, but removal of the ball, cuting and replacing sounds more permenant, plus you would need to leave enough under the ball to use the wrap!!