upr k-member kit
06-30-2010, 09:40 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: mississippi
Posts: 386
upr k-member kit
has anyone run this kit from late model restoration. for some reason i cant get the link to work but it is the k member,a-arms,and coil over kit with ebach springs for $700.
Looking to do the k member and coilovers and ran across this kit and also saw it installed on a mustang in this months issue on modded mustangs. Price seems very good just would like to know if it is a quality peace. Also how hard is it to replace the k member, can you support the engine and take out the k member be itself or do you have to take the motor with it?
Looking to do the k member and coilovers and ran across this kit and also saw it installed on a mustang in this months issue on modded mustangs. Price seems very good just would like to know if it is a quality peace. Also how hard is it to replace the k member, can you support the engine and take out the k member be itself or do you have to take the motor with it?
Last edited by 96meangreengt; 06-30-2010 at 09:50 PM.
06-30-2010, 09:48 PM
#2
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
[LMR website is down at the moment, so cannot check link]
The motor can be supported and does NOT have to be removed to replace the "K". I would HIGHLY recommend you replace the oil pan at the same time. This becomes VERY vulnerable once the OEM "K" has be replaced and will see why when you are done. The big thing about different aftermarket "K"s is weather it is designed for the launch-pad or the road course. The 1/4 mile ones tend to be lighter (QA1, for example) and a bit different geometry from that of a road course one (Griggs, MM for example) They are going to be stronger for the stress/strain of harder use and be heavier as well.
What are the plans for your ride?
Jazzer
The motor can be supported and does NOT have to be removed to replace the "K". I would HIGHLY recommend you replace the oil pan at the same time. This becomes VERY vulnerable once the OEM "K" has be replaced and will see why when you are done. The big thing about different aftermarket "K"s is weather it is designed for the launch-pad or the road course. The 1/4 mile ones tend to be lighter (QA1, for example) and a bit different geometry from that of a road course one (Griggs, MM for example) They are going to be stronger for the stress/strain of harder use and be heavier as well.
What are the plans for your ride?
Jazzer
07-01-2010, 05:02 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Location: mississippi
Posts: 386
[LMR website is down at the moment, so cannot check link]
The motor can be supported and does NOT have to be removed to replace the "K". I would HIGHLY recommend you replace the oil pan at the same time. This becomes VERY vulnerable once the OEM "K" has be replaced and will see why when you are done. The big thing about different aftermarket "K"s is weather it is designed for the launch-pad or the road course. The 1/4 mile ones tend to be lighter (QA1, for example) and a bit different geometry from that of a road course one (Griggs, MM for example) They are going to be stronger for the stress/strain of harder use and be heavier as well.
What are the plans for your ride?
Jazzer
The motor can be supported and does NOT have to be removed to replace the "K". I would HIGHLY recommend you replace the oil pan at the same time. This becomes VERY vulnerable once the OEM "K" has be replaced and will see why when you are done. The big thing about different aftermarket "K"s is weather it is designed for the launch-pad or the road course. The 1/4 mile ones tend to be lighter (QA1, for example) and a bit different geometry from that of a road course one (Griggs, MM for example) They are going to be stronger for the stress/strain of harder use and be heavier as well.
What are the plans for your ride?
Jazzer
My plans are to have a awesome handleing car and somthing to have fun with at some local autoross events.
07-01-2010, 06:24 PM
#6
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I run a Canton 8 quart (really about 7.5 quarts) steel pan with a re-enforced steel plate then welded onto the bottom for additional protection. It is a good thing too, as my pan has MAJOR scars all over it from hitting stuff on the roads.
If you are REALLY serious about a spectacular cornering ride, you need to read my suspension guide and PM me with questions. I am more than happy to help and will give you the upside/downside of different parts and have no agenda other than to help pepes reach their goals. There are also differing opinions, so keep your mind open to what others say as well. I am not the only guy out there who digs a corner and certainly NOT the most knowledgeable.
Jazzer
If you are REALLY serious about a spectacular cornering ride, you need to read my suspension guide and PM me with questions. I am more than happy to help and will give you the upside/downside of different parts and have no agenda other than to help pepes reach their goals. There are also differing opinions, so keep your mind open to what others say as well. I am not the only guy out there who digs a corner and certainly NOT the most knowledgeable.
Jazzer
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