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^Thats why i'd do an MMR shortblock with that h/c/i combo. lol BTW, if you just got the mufflers boduke, I would love to buy them! I wanted them but the new catback is just too dang expensive.
I would never buy a MMR shortblock nor recommend them to anyone.
Well i'd buy it through ebay so they would kinda be forced to have good customer service. lol but i was just saying that I would forged the shortblock and turn it to 7k+ rpms.
Well i'd buy it through ebay so they would kinda be forced to have good customer service. lol but i was just saying that I would forged the shortblock and turn it to 7k+ rpms.
Your still getting the same quality block and it is assembled the same way as if you were buying it from their website. That is why I still wouldn't recommend MMR.
i was thinking around 6300. someone told me with a good fluid damper i couldnt go to 7k but i wasnt sure?
If you want to get over an honest 320RWHP NA start thinking 7000 MINIMUM shift points no matter the heads used.
The damper is the last thing to buy, the first is the rods and a proper balance of the crank. You can use the stock cast piston to 7500RPM NA and the stock cast crank to 9000RPM NA. The stock rods are done at 7000RPM no matter how low power the motor is.
I have someone who is street tuning a new style PI head that went from 90ish load values on his last healthy cammed 2V to just over 102% with these new PI heads, cams, and Eddy intake. Hp peak is looking to be around 6500-6800 and its still streetable. Once he gets the ignition bugs figured out we shall see what it does on the dyno. From what we are seeing we were able to keep the stock bottom end torque as well (~250ftlbs at 2000RPM)