lca's and uca's install
 

So me and a buddy are going to tackle this job of installing these rear control arms on my 2000 gt. He has done his Z28 suspension himself aswell, so I wanna know is their any how to's on how to uninstall and install lca's and uca's for confirmation.

Im going with MM rear lower adjustable Xduty control arms.
As far as the uppers im still unsure on which to go with. ANY ADVICE? I was thinking baseline or maybe steeda's from AM http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...arms-7904.html

Get baseline's, you won't regret it. As far as installation, the only hard part is adjusting the new ones. Talk to Kevin at baseline, he'll help you out.

2k.... PLEASE don't install those UCA's!

Those are a binding bitch of an arm and can damage your ride! Stick with an arm that has a spherical end on each one. That goes for uppers as well as lowers. For more info, read the Official Suspension Guide :D

Jazzer :)

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Aight kool, thanks fellas.

Actually, wouldn't spherical bushings make your torque boxes more prone to breaking? without reinforcing them?

yes and no.

Yes it will if you run slicks and cut 1.8 > 60's....

No it won't of you run DR's and also like the twisties....lol

Nope http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...smilies/no.gif

Take a look in the Suspension Guide and will see some pics of non-adjustable tubular UCA's, but will amount to the same issue. Lowers are not as big a deal as uppers, but still a major improvement and more so for the corners. The spherical end will allow some lateral rotation of the LCA's/UCA's and greatly reduce the strain on your body connection points (torque-boxes for lowers and drawing a blank at the moment for name of uppers).

The spherical ends eliminate a majority of the binding on a Mustang 4-link, but would be MUCH (<--- by a factor of 1000x's) to scrap the UCA's completely and consider a PHB or WL and TA.

Jazzer :)

The TB's receive strain reguardless of spherical, poly, Delrin or whatever bushings. The torque is transferred into the body of the car and only the most moddest of it is absorbed by the bushings. The rest is driven straight into the control arm mounting connections and WILL eventually fail without pre-emptive work. If one is into the launch-pad, I highly recommend he/she do some work to strengthen EVERYTHING up to avoid some issues of failure.

Jazzer :)