96 Cobra performace upgrades
08-21-2010, 09:44 PM
#1
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Location: Apison, TN
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96 Cobra performace upgrades
Ok, so apparently my first post didn't go through???
Anyway, I bought a 96 Cobra Convertible today. Its Laser red with tan top and interior. It is in fantastic shape, has a few tiny paint chips here and there, but the body is straight as an arrow. It has 88K on the odometer.
The mods to it so far (at least the ones I know about) are that it has a Prochamber/Magnaflow exhaust system, Short throw Shifter (unsure of brand), Lowered an inch with C/C plates, Chrome Cobra Rs, and a Roll Bar (no light unfortunately).
The first thing Im gonna do is install some 3.73 gears. Im going with this ratio simply b/c I already have them, and also a buddy of mine did that to his 94 Cobra and it made a big difference. Next on the list is an adjustable clutch cable bracket. If you shift really hard it grinds ever so slightly when slamming 2nd so I think the cable is stretched a little. It only does it driving it really hard, and if you wait like half a second between 1st and 2nd it doesn't do it, but what fun is that right? Should I get an aluminum quadrant too?
Other than that, not really sure what I want to do to it. I know its sluggish right now, but the DOHC 4.6 isn't exactly very torquey, so the 3.73 should help with that quite a bit. What are some other upgrades that I should look into? I was thinking maybe longtubes? But are they worth the money? And if so, which brand should I get? What about a dyno tune? I am also looking at the Kenne Bell blower system for it. I know I can't boost it too much with the stock rods and pistons (heard the crank is forged?), but I do have the good block. I am not wanting a ton of power from this thing, shooting for 320-350 RWHP, which I feel this car should be more than capable of. If not a blower, what would be the best way to get it there?
Long term plans are a T-56 swap with a good clutch, aluminum flywheel, and an aluminum driveshaft. But like I said, that is either when the Clutch goes or a few years from now... whichever is first!
This is my first mod motor stang... so you guys tell me... am I on the right track?
Anyway, I bought a 96 Cobra Convertible today. Its Laser red with tan top and interior. It is in fantastic shape, has a few tiny paint chips here and there, but the body is straight as an arrow. It has 88K on the odometer.
The mods to it so far (at least the ones I know about) are that it has a Prochamber/Magnaflow exhaust system, Short throw Shifter (unsure of brand), Lowered an inch with C/C plates, Chrome Cobra Rs, and a Roll Bar (no light unfortunately).
The first thing Im gonna do is install some 3.73 gears. Im going with this ratio simply b/c I already have them, and also a buddy of mine did that to his 94 Cobra and it made a big difference. Next on the list is an adjustable clutch cable bracket. If you shift really hard it grinds ever so slightly when slamming 2nd so I think the cable is stretched a little. It only does it driving it really hard, and if you wait like half a second between 1st and 2nd it doesn't do it, but what fun is that right? Should I get an aluminum quadrant too?
Other than that, not really sure what I want to do to it. I know its sluggish right now, but the DOHC 4.6 isn't exactly very torquey, so the 3.73 should help with that quite a bit. What are some other upgrades that I should look into? I was thinking maybe longtubes? But are they worth the money? And if so, which brand should I get? What about a dyno tune? I am also looking at the Kenne Bell blower system for it. I know I can't boost it too much with the stock rods and pistons (heard the crank is forged?), but I do have the good block. I am not wanting a ton of power from this thing, shooting for 320-350 RWHP, which I feel this car should be more than capable of. If not a blower, what would be the best way to get it there?
Long term plans are a T-56 swap with a good clutch, aluminum flywheel, and an aluminum driveshaft. But like I said, that is either when the Clutch goes or a few years from now... whichever is first!
This is my first mod motor stang... so you guys tell me... am I on the right track?
Last edited by tyler72; 08-21-2010 at 09:53 PM.
08-22-2010, 07:47 AM
#3
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Well, that thought did cross my mind, but it doesn't act like that. I have driven a few things with bad syncs, but this is different... It seriously just feels like the clutch isn't releasing quite enough. I can't recall how much free travel is in the clutch pedal, but that seems like it could be the problem.
If it does turn out to be the synchros, I will probably just drive it until I can afford a T-56 swap, because from what I hear the T-45 isn't worth messing around with. I was gonna try to keep it until it needed a clutch, but theres no real reason to try and up the power if Im not going to be able to shift it hard.
The clutch Quadrants w/ a new cable and adjuster is only about $100 from steeda. If there is too much free travel in the pedal should I get the kit and see what happens? Its not wated money b/c even if it doesn't help, that kit would still work with a T-56 right?
Also, I did some more research last night, and everybody said to go for at least a 4.10 gear with the 4.6, where as the 3.73 is recommended for a 5.0. I get it... the 4.6 has less low end and will rev a lot higher than a 5.0. I don't really want to spend the money on a new gear set, but should I look around for a 4.10 and not waste my time with a 3.73? Its quite a bit of work to set one up correctly, so I don't want to do it all only to feel like I wasted my time. Right now its pretty sluggish with the stock gear...
If it does turn out to be the synchros, I will probably just drive it until I can afford a T-56 swap, because from what I hear the T-45 isn't worth messing around with. I was gonna try to keep it until it needed a clutch, but theres no real reason to try and up the power if Im not going to be able to shift it hard.
The clutch Quadrants w/ a new cable and adjuster is only about $100 from steeda. If there is too much free travel in the pedal should I get the kit and see what happens? Its not wated money b/c even if it doesn't help, that kit would still work with a T-56 right?
Also, I did some more research last night, and everybody said to go for at least a 4.10 gear with the 4.6, where as the 3.73 is recommended for a 5.0. I get it... the 4.6 has less low end and will rev a lot higher than a 5.0. I don't really want to spend the money on a new gear set, but should I look around for a 4.10 and not waste my time with a 3.73? Its quite a bit of work to set one up correctly, so I don't want to do it all only to feel like I wasted my time. Right now its pretty sluggish with the stock gear...
Last edited by tyler72; 08-22-2010 at 07:53 AM.
08-22-2010, 09:00 AM
#4
I started with 4.10 and now have 4.30's. If you are staying N/A I would consider finding either one of those. Eventually you are going to probably do a IMRC delete and when you do this you will loose even more low end torque. But if you have the gears it will compensate for the loss.
As far as the T45 sucking goes there is allot of Internet misinformation on that. Yes the stock syncros suck but the ones you get when you rebuild them are just fine and the T45 can be a very good trans. The T45 and T56 actually share some internal parts
As far as the adj. quadrant goes yes you can use it when and if you swap to a T56. The chances it fixing your High Rev grind problem are pretty slim. but I have wrong before
As far as the T45 sucking goes there is allot of Internet misinformation on that. Yes the stock syncros suck but the ones you get when you rebuild them are just fine and the T45 can be a very good trans. The T45 and T56 actually share some internal parts
As far as the adj. quadrant goes yes you can use it when and if you swap to a T56. The chances it fixing your High Rev grind problem are pretty slim. but I have wrong before
08-22-2010, 03:55 PM
#6
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Well cool. I am hoping that the T-45 will live a while longer as I don't really have the money for a T-56 swap right at the moment. The car only has 88,000 miles on it, so there's no real reason that the trans should have any issues. Even if the previous owner did beat on it (not the guy I bought it from, but the guy before him), it is a bone stock engine so I don't really see how it could be hurt. I guess I could be wrong though.
So as far as other upgrades...
Long tubes? yes or no?
Kenne Bell?
If no blower, should I get the Long tubes and a good dyno tune? Would that help any?
Should I do the flywheel and driveshaft when I swap in a T-56? (When the clutch goes or transmission lol) And what clutch should I go with when the time comes?
One last question... If I do the Kenne Bell, doesn't it replace the part of the intake that contains the IMRC stuff? A buddy of mine owns a dyno shop so I could easily ditch them now and get it tuned, but If I do a blower I was under the impression that they get done away with then.
Sorry guys, but like I said, I am new to the Mod motor thing haha.
So as far as other upgrades...
Long tubes? yes or no?
Kenne Bell?
If no blower, should I get the Long tubes and a good dyno tune? Would that help any?
Should I do the flywheel and driveshaft when I swap in a T-56? (When the clutch goes or transmission lol) And what clutch should I go with when the time comes?
One last question... If I do the Kenne Bell, doesn't it replace the part of the intake that contains the IMRC stuff? A buddy of mine owns a dyno shop so I could easily ditch them now and get it tuned, but If I do a blower I was under the impression that they get done away with then.
Sorry guys, but like I said, I am new to the Mod motor thing haha.
08-23-2010, 09:31 PM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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Well, went and got the car today and then drove it 2 1/2 hours home. Went by the emissions inspection facility... and after explaining that my pro chamber was the cat, she went right on through with no issues at all. Luckily its a 96, if it were older then it would fail b/c the 96 up is OBD test, while the 95 and down is exhaust sniff. Basically, on 96 and newer stuff, if you have no CEL on, then you pass.
I looked at the car some more today once I got it home, and turns out they are actually MAC mufflers too... but the install was VERY crappy. It appears they used the stock cat back exhaust and just welded in the new mufflers. One of them hangs pretty low so it scrapes over speed humps. Im gonna see what I can do about that problem. I really like how it sounds and that would be less money I would have to spend, but I can't have my exhaust dragging the ground all the time. I have a welder and all of the tools I would need to fix it, so I'll have to look into that tomorrow.
After driving it 180 miles today I have come to the conclusion that the current gearing isn't all too bad at all, im not sure if it is stock or not, but it actually pulls pretty good at 5000 RPM, and I pulled off at least 25 MPGs today, which made me pretty darn happy!
Also... I noticed that one of the Cobra R's is missing a center cap... any body know where I could get another one?
Since nobody will answer my questions, I will ask again.
Long tubes? yes or no?
Kenne Bell?
If no blower, should I get the Long tubes and a good dyno tune? Would that help any?
Should I do the flywheel and driveshaft when I swap in a T-56? (When the clutch goes or transmission lol) And what clutch should I go with when the time comes?
One last question... If I do the Kenne Bell, doesn't it replace the part of the intake that contains the IMRC stuff? A buddy of mine owns a dyno shop so I could easily ditch them now and get it tuned, but If I do a blower I was under the impression that they get done away with then.
And BTW, here's a picture of her:
I looked at the car some more today once I got it home, and turns out they are actually MAC mufflers too... but the install was VERY crappy. It appears they used the stock cat back exhaust and just welded in the new mufflers. One of them hangs pretty low so it scrapes over speed humps. Im gonna see what I can do about that problem. I really like how it sounds and that would be less money I would have to spend, but I can't have my exhaust dragging the ground all the time. I have a welder and all of the tools I would need to fix it, so I'll have to look into that tomorrow.
After driving it 180 miles today I have come to the conclusion that the current gearing isn't all too bad at all, im not sure if it is stock or not, but it actually pulls pretty good at 5000 RPM, and I pulled off at least 25 MPGs today, which made me pretty darn happy!
Also... I noticed that one of the Cobra R's is missing a center cap... any body know where I could get another one?
Since nobody will answer my questions, I will ask again.
Long tubes? yes or no?
Kenne Bell?
If no blower, should I get the Long tubes and a good dyno tune? Would that help any?
Should I do the flywheel and driveshaft when I swap in a T-56? (When the clutch goes or transmission lol) And what clutch should I go with when the time comes?
One last question... If I do the Kenne Bell, doesn't it replace the part of the intake that contains the IMRC stuff? A buddy of mine owns a dyno shop so I could easily ditch them now and get it tuned, but If I do a blower I was under the impression that they get done away with then.
And BTW, here's a picture of her:
Last edited by tyler72; 08-23-2010 at 09:47 PM.
08-24-2010, 05:31 AM
#8
I vote yes for supercharger, and yes for longtubes. Be preparred if you plan on doing the headers yourself. I just put long tubes on mine over the winter and unlike the SOHC 4.6 I found it impossible to jack the motor high enough to get any of the header bolts from the top. I dropped the k member (was doing a tubular front suspension at the same time) and used an engine support bar from harborfreight and lowered the engine as far down as I could and it was still a struggle with all the bolts.
08-24-2010, 12:36 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
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Don't put the KB on there without an intercooler. The heat created by compressing the air will make your PCM pull lots of ignition timing to prevent knock and you will end up heat soaked after a couple pulls. You're better off staying N/A if all you want is 320-350RWHP.
I think everybody would say yes to LT headers. They mainly offer sound and the "cool" factor until you get into serious power levels. Your gain will be little on a relatively stock N/A setup. If you throw LTs on with the KB you're going to absolutely need a custom dyno tune because its tricky to get the A/F on and KB's supplied tune isnt made for LTs.
I think everybody would say yes to LT headers. They mainly offer sound and the "cool" factor until you get into serious power levels. Your gain will be little on a relatively stock N/A setup. If you throw LTs on with the KB you're going to absolutely need a custom dyno tune because its tricky to get the A/F on and KB's supplied tune isnt made for LTs.
08-25-2010, 09:29 PM
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Apison, TN
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Well, 350rwhp is the goal... but its just a daily driver/ street car. I doubt I will ever take it to the drag strip. I mean, I might take it once just to see how I can get it to do, but in all honesty if I wanna drag race I'll just take the 72.
That being said... I am more looking at road racing as far as the "go fast" for this car. Its already got some handling add ons, and I honestly feel like its more fun to go around turns fast than it is to go in a straight line. I know it wouldn't be a very competitive car, but that's ok. I don't need to come in first... I just wanna have fun. I would never race it on that level anyway, it would just be at shows like the mustang anniversaries where they have road race events for fun.
So would the blower be ok in a road race application where you wouldn't be doing WOT pulls consistently? Or would a road race application actually make it worse?
If no blower, what would be the best way to reach my 350hp goal? Im up for anything at this point, and I am not "set" on the blower... I do however like the cool factor haha.
I hear the long tubes are a bitch on these engines... I like how it sounds now, so honestly if Im not going to gain any power from them, its not worth the trouble or the price tag. I jut wish somebody would actually try to help answer my questions instead of saying yeah I would because its cool, or no I wouldn't because its not cool. I want some info on what would be the most bang for the buck to reach my goal... I do appreciate the replies, but I still don't feel like I've really gotten any helpful advice.
I would be OK with a CAI, but I do NOT want to get rid of the strut tower brace, and its already got a K&N so Im not sure that would be the right direction either.
My first major upgrades are going to be the clutch, aluminum flywheel, T-56, and aluminum driveshaft. I have another project that I have to finish first, but if I have some extra change laying around here and there I might do the small things like the clutch cable and quadrant. Might even look at some more handling upgrades such as a new K member and control arms. I still haven't got the car up on stands to check everything out, but I did notice that it has sub frame connectors already on it. What other upgrades should I do to make it handle better? Don't really want it wearing tires weird, but that might have to be a compromise??? Which brings up the fact that it's going to need tires here soon as well. I looked at the Michelin Pilot Sports, but I don't think they are worth $220-230 a piece. I think I am going to go with the BFG G-force tires. They are about $100 less [B]each[B] compared to the Michelins. Hopefully I can start on the bigger upgrades sometime this winter. That's why Im trying to do the research now.
That being said... I am more looking at road racing as far as the "go fast" for this car. Its already got some handling add ons, and I honestly feel like its more fun to go around turns fast than it is to go in a straight line. I know it wouldn't be a very competitive car, but that's ok. I don't need to come in first... I just wanna have fun. I would never race it on that level anyway, it would just be at shows like the mustang anniversaries where they have road race events for fun.
So would the blower be ok in a road race application where you wouldn't be doing WOT pulls consistently? Or would a road race application actually make it worse?
If no blower, what would be the best way to reach my 350hp goal? Im up for anything at this point, and I am not "set" on the blower... I do however like the cool factor haha.
I hear the long tubes are a bitch on these engines... I like how it sounds now, so honestly if Im not going to gain any power from them, its not worth the trouble or the price tag. I jut wish somebody would actually try to help answer my questions instead of saying yeah I would because its cool, or no I wouldn't because its not cool. I want some info on what would be the most bang for the buck to reach my goal... I do appreciate the replies, but I still don't feel like I've really gotten any helpful advice.
I would be OK with a CAI, but I do NOT want to get rid of the strut tower brace, and its already got a K&N so Im not sure that would be the right direction either.
My first major upgrades are going to be the clutch, aluminum flywheel, T-56, and aluminum driveshaft. I have another project that I have to finish first, but if I have some extra change laying around here and there I might do the small things like the clutch cable and quadrant. Might even look at some more handling upgrades such as a new K member and control arms. I still haven't got the car up on stands to check everything out, but I did notice that it has sub frame connectors already on it. What other upgrades should I do to make it handle better? Don't really want it wearing tires weird, but that might have to be a compromise??? Which brings up the fact that it's going to need tires here soon as well. I looked at the Michelin Pilot Sports, but I don't think they are worth $220-230 a piece. I think I am going to go with the BFG G-force tires. They are about $100 less [B]each[B] compared to the Michelins. Hopefully I can start on the bigger upgrades sometime this winter. That's why Im trying to do the research now.
Last edited by tyler72; 08-25-2010 at 09:38 PM.