New rear brakes installed
#21
Vents certainly help, but if one wants to quickly drop 80 MPH, he/she needs to give time for the rotors to cool down multiple times during such an event. I have never gone 135 MPH, much less quickly needed to drop 80 of them! There are rotors that are designed to handle such heat and not warp, but are very heavy in weight and see them on Indy and NASCAR rides.
I believe Alcon makes super heavy-duty rotors for Stangs, but am cetain they require specific calipers and are EXTREMELY heavy.
Jazzer
I believe Alcon makes super heavy-duty rotors for Stangs, but am cetain they require specific calipers and are EXTREMELY heavy.
Jazzer
#29
And could buy a whole other car with what he put into his suspension. lol I'm approaching that level...tubular K with front a-arms next up. Thats gonna be a grand...wish I thought about doing that with the IRS cus I coulda. lol
#30
A little set-back, unfortunately
Due to the small amount of in/out travel built into the OEM rear axle of the SN95 rides, the rotors are moving within the calipers and pushing fluid back into the system. The OEM calipers are mounted on a bearing sleeve that allows the caliper to "slide" WITH the rotor to avoid this issue. I just went out and jacked a wheel off the ground and is obvious this is the issue.
When I first drove it home, and then wrote a review review, I had not taken her through a set of twisties, but did on the following day. I have found out that taking a set of left/right corners, the calipers get pryed open a bit and the brakes need to be slightly pumped to close the now open gap. But.... going through several sets of left/right turns and THEN needing to brake, leaves the pedal with a lots of travel prior before the brakes even begin to work
John and I are working on a solution and will try to get her all fixed up for AX on this Saturday.
Jazzer
Due to the small amount of in/out travel built into the OEM rear axle of the SN95 rides, the rotors are moving within the calipers and pushing fluid back into the system. The OEM calipers are mounted on a bearing sleeve that allows the caliper to "slide" WITH the rotor to avoid this issue. I just went out and jacked a wheel off the ground and is obvious this is the issue.
When I first drove it home, and then wrote a review review, I had not taken her through a set of twisties, but did on the following day. I have found out that taking a set of left/right corners, the calipers get pryed open a bit and the brakes need to be slightly pumped to close the now open gap. But.... going through several sets of left/right turns and THEN needing to brake, leaves the pedal with a lots of travel prior before the brakes even begin to work
John and I are working on a solution and will try to get her all fixed up for AX on this Saturday.
Jazzer