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99-04 stalled & shift kitted auto quarter mile

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Old 09-08-2010, 08:27 PM
  #21  
01snake
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What shifter did you use? Im going with the hurst pistol grip...how did you mount the shifter? Custom or buy brackets?

I found the arp flexplate bolts, but cant seem to find bolts for the converter. What did you guys use?

I have been told atleast for the c4 i will need a longer driveshaft also..did you have the same problem?

And where did you mount your trans cooler? I was thinking about painting mine black if it already isint and mounting it in the front in the hole between the front bumper and hood
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Old 09-08-2010, 08:57 PM
  #22  
WannaBeGearHead
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I used the stock auto shifter. It mounts in the place of the old manual shifter but it will need fab'd up to get the console to go back into place. I haven't yet got that far because I really don't care how it looks at this point lol

I just reused my flywheel bolts on the flexplate. I added a washer IIRC when I put the flexplate on. The converter I bought came with nuts to use. The converter itself will have "feet" that go through the flexplate and then on the back you put the nuts on and tighten them down.

Your driveshaft does need modified. My driveshaft did not. I just need to swap yokes but instead of doing that I just bought a used auto driveshaft and put that on.

I bought a B&M trans cooler. I wish I would have went with a bigger one but this one will be fine. It is the 14,400 BTU one. It was cheap and came with everything but lines to install. The best place to put the cooler, which is where I put mine, is in front of the radiator. That way when your driving you will get a lot of good air flowing on the cooler itself. Mine is actually mounted on there with 4 beefed up zip ties that came with the cooler lol

I kind of did this swap cheaply except for the converter and cooler. I basically just wanted to get everything swapped over and when money permitted, rebuild the trans, do a J-mod, RMVB, stainless steel cooler lines etc etc.

It really was a very, very easy swap. Autos are so much better than manuals IMO.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:37 PM
  #23  
01snake
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The cooler my trans guy is giving me is 35,000 GVW or somthing i guess its a bigger one...

As far as the converter bolts i txtd him and he said studs, washers, and bolts so i will have to mention it to him in person. This is all new to me lol
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:54 PM
  #24  
WannaBeGearHead
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Originally Posted by 01snake
The cooler my trans guy is giving me is 35,000 GVW or somthing i guess its a bigger one...

As far as the converter bolts i txtd him and he said studs, washers, and bolts so i will have to mention it to him in person. This is all new to me lol
Sounds like a nice cooler. Not exactly sure what the GVW means lol

Ya I should have described that better. The converter has treaded studs (I said feet lol) that are connected to the converter that slide through the flexplate. Once you have them lined up you will put the washers and nuts on the other side of the treaded studs. It's easy once you see how its setup.

Only tricky part is you have to set the converter onto the input shaft then slide the trans and converter onto the flexplate. It can be hard to see where the studs are on the converter but it is prett simple. I had very little experience with tranny stuff but I was able to do all the work by myself. That included dropping the stupid K member because of the my gay headers being in the way.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:59 PM
  #25  
tbirdscwd
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I'm swapping to a 4r70w from my stock tr3650. I got s steal on one used with everything for the swap. I am however upgrading some of the transmission's internals and of course the shift kit and stall converter. The whole swap will end up costing me around $1600 including fluid and everything. But that doesn't take into account that I will make some considerable money back by selling all my manual stuff which is almost all aftermarket.

I think I am going with the hurst quarter stick and just covering it with a manual shift boot. But I will probly just install the stock auto shifter to start out with.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:03 PM
  #26  
01snake
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Was it like a bolt head you screw in then put a nut on the other side? Or just a stud with nut and washer on back of the flexplate and no nut on front of verter feet? Does any of the stud stick out of ther verter feet?
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:05 PM
  #27  
01snake
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Originally Posted by tbirdscwd
I'm swapping to a 4r70w from my stock tr3650. I got s steal on one used with everything for the swap. I am however upgrading some of the transmission's internals and of course the shift kit and stall converter. The whole swap will end up costing me around $1600 including fluid and everything. But that doesn't take into account that I will make some considerable money back by selling all my manual stuff which is almost all aftermarket.

I think I am going with the hurst quarter stick and just covering it with a manual shift boot. But I will probly just install the stock auto shifter to start out with.
Ya i will have the exact thing done to my trans on paper when i pick it up....

But i got the trans, converter, flex plate, dip stick, and tranny cooler with fittings for $1,750

He took 250 off for taking so long i was supposed to have it 3 months ago so o well fml
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:11 PM
  #28  
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I don't think I quite understand your question 100% but I will give it a try.

The converter slides onto the input shaft of the transmission. No bolts or anything, just line up the splines and shove the converter on there until it seats all the way. On the back of the converter, at least with mine, it had 4 treaded studs that slide through the flexplate. Once they are sticking through the flexplate (they only stick out like 1/4-1/2" on the engine side of the flexplate) you will put the washers on and then screw the nuts on and tighten them down. It's easy, you just have to line up the studs with the flexplate. Once you get one on it is easy to get the rest on.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:18 PM
  #29  
01snake
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Ok that makes some sense now..

So is the stud threaded all the way through the feet of the verter flush or no? And what did you tq those nuts down too on the flexplate side?

Did you use locking washers and loctite?
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:22 PM
  #30  
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Yup that's basically it. Now I'm not sure what you mean by feet anymore lol

The converter has a somewhat rounded bottom but is smooth with nothing but (4) 1/2" treaded studs used to hold it to the flexplate.
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