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Anybody running Spec St 2 clutch with power adder?

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Old 09-30-2010, 12:31 PM
  #21  
uberstang1
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I guess to further your point, I'll ask a question. If a person's car is making 275hp and 305tq to the flywheel.... is this person anymore likely to break a component of his drivetrain with a Spec stage 3 clutch than he is with a lets say King cobra?

The question is, just because the clutch is rated to a higher capacity, does that change the force/shock to the drivetrain when the engine is at a relative hp/tq amount.
It should be the same amount of stress on the drivetrain with either clutch, 275hp is 275hp thats what I was shooting at moose, at least it sounds logical wouldn't ya think.
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:38 PM
  #22  
teej281
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More clutch=more clamping force=more pedal pressure=more graby clutch=more stress/shock on drivetrain.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:03 PM
  #23  
amoosenamedhank
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Originally Posted by teej281
More clutch=more clamping force=more pedal pressure=more graby clutch=more stress/shock on drivetrain.
I guess I'm not sure if that's right or not. The only way I can see this being true is if you have too much power and your current clutch is slipping, then if you switched up to a stronger clutch, now the entire force is being applied and now you have broken stuff.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:12 PM
  #24  
PurpleIcedGT
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This is a good debate topic. Kind of reminds me of the topic of X or H and which is better. lol
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:21 PM
  #25  
amoosenamedhank
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As I see it, the reason people would use a weaker clutch than the capability of the trans is they are accepting the fact that the clutch will slip and they are using that as their safety net. They know the clutch will burn up before the point the transmission will break. When you use a higher rated clutch, you don't have that safety net, and then it's the transmission that says uncle.

So I can see the point that you would buy an underrated clutch, but I'd personally run the better clutch and taking 'er until she blows.

Last edited by amoosenamedhank; 09-30-2010 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:47 PM
  #26  
0949er
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I am without a doubt replacing my stock clutch with a centerforce dual friction in a month or so.

I am not worried about breaking my transmission, because I wont be stupid enough to drop the clutch at 4k rpms at the track.
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:56 PM
  #27  
ddmsgtr1
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Originally Posted by amoosenamedhank
As I see it, the reason people would use a weaker clutch than the capability of the trans is they are accepting the fact that the clutch will slip and they are using that as their safety net. They know the clutch will burn up before the point the transmission will break. When you use a higher rated clutch, you don't have that safety net, and then it's the transmission that says uncle.

So I can see the point that you would buy an underrated clutch, but I'd personally run the better clutch and taking 'er until she blows.
And this is a fine option if you have the funds to buy another trans and have another car, but if you can't afford to drop the cash for a new trans, this route may not be for you. And if you look on AM.com, you'll see the spec and most of the other stage 1 clutches are with the 400ft/lb neighborhood, as well as Ox stating that it did fine for him, and I think we all know that car saw it's fair share of abuse. That and it had over 200hp more than the bolt on and power adder combinations that we're talking about on this thread. So knowing that, with now disrespect Purple, if you or someone you know had a bad experience with a stage 1 clutch on a car within the neighborhood of 400-450hp, what I would assume is that one of the following happened: Either you recieved a defective clutch, the clutch wasn't broken in properly, or it had the ***** beat off of it for almost every inch of that 500-1000 miles.
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:09 PM
  #28  
boduke0220
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a chain is only as strong as its weakest link...figure out what your weakest link is and thats whats most likely to break..
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:18 PM
  #29  
uberstang1
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This is a good debate topic. Kind of reminds me of the topic of X or H and which is better. lol
Y Pipe, ask anyone with an Iroc-z.
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Old 09-30-2010, 04:42 PM
  #30  
amoosenamedhank
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Originally Posted by ddmsgtr1
And this is a fine option if you have the funds to buy another trans and have another car, but if you can't afford to drop the cash for a new trans, this route may not be for you. And if you look on AM.com, you'll see the spec and most of the other stage 1 clutches are with the 400ft/lb neighborhood, as well as Ox stating that it did fine for him, and I think we all know that car saw it's fair share of abuse. That and it had over 200hp more than the bolt on and power adder combinations that we're talking about on this thread. So knowing that, with now disrespect Purple, if you or someone you know had a bad experience with a stage 1 clutch on a car within the neighborhood of 400-450hp, what I would assume is that one of the following happened: Either you recieved a defective clutch, the clutch wasn't broken in properly, or it had the ***** beat off of it for almost every inch of that 500-1000 miles.
The clutch might hold initially, but eventually it will start to slip, just like the OPs clutch did. And I agreed, if you're ok with knowing you're buying a clutch that will eventually fry with hopes that it will save your transmission, then more power to you. I don't launch the **** out of my car, so I got the upgraded clutch (Spec stage 2) and I'm doing just fine and so are my clutch and my T-45... we're all just a big happen bunch.

Last edited by amoosenamedhank; 09-30-2010 at 04:54 PM.
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