cliffyk

Look them up here...

StangMojo

Damn good link, thanks CK!

Now I have a list to start with for testing. Looks like I need a good manual and a voltameter.

StangMojo

I have great news!

No sign of milky white swirls in my oil. I checked by looking at the dipstick but I plan to change the oil over the weekend for a closer look. My coolant looks the standard green also. I disconnected battery overnight to clear the computer again hoping the cleaner was causing the codes but the check engine light came back up 30 minutes into the drive to work.

The electric parts cleaner is "CRC Lectra-Motive" brand. Contains Tetreachloroethylene 127-18-4 & Carbon Dioxide 124-38-9...whaterever that means.

cliffyk

Did you spray that into the TB while the engine was running? Or do you think you may have sprayed in enough that it puddled up in the intake manifold without evaporating before you started the engine?

I ask because tetrachloroethylene, when superheated (like in a combustion chamber) heated, produces phosgene gas--used as a chemical weapon in WWI-- click here for more.

Here's a link to a tale told by a fellow that had a very bad run-in with it...

StangMojo

Whoa. When I sprayed in the car was off and engine cold. I sprayed in 1/4 the can I would say. So yes, it most likely puddled a bit inside.

Damn, no wonder people keep a distance from me on the street.

945LSTANG

for future reference, you aren't ever supposed to clean your TB. ford puts a "special coating" on them that a cleaner can damage. this is what i've heard from ford, but they may just be yanking my ding dong.

cliffyk

The shop manual does have that caution:



However I have not seen that the stock TBs on our cars have that coating, at least not the same as I have seen on other vehicles. There is also a reference in the PC/ED section that "not all models have this coating".

Also, as the throttle plates in our cars are never completely closed (there is a "closed" throttle air-bleed established by the stop screw) I am not sure what such a coating would accomplish?

teej281

You probably just fried your cats and trashed your o2's.

StangMojo

CK- I sincerely thank you for posting up those links to take caution! That is one serious reason why I am reading warning labels from now on. Hopefully I have not already breathed in anything from that stuff.

I am checking with my doctor now to be safe. The picture of the back of the can in the link is the same damn can I used. Talk about goosebumps; Geez. I feel lucky and stupid in the same sentence.

StangMojo

I had a buddy drive behind me today and he did not see any smoke or smell anything weird during normal driving or heavy footing the throttle a bit. I think i'm in the clear but I am definitely not going to work on my car in the garage for a while just to make sure.

With codes P1130 and P1131 I am looking at this list of possibles. Where should I start?

• Electrical:
• Short to VPWR in harness or HO2S
• Water in harness connector
• Open/Shorted HO2S circuit
• Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
• Damaged HO2S
• Damaged PCM
• Fuel System:
• Excessive fuel pressure
• Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
• Leaking fuel pressure regulator
• Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
• Vapor recovery system
• Induction System:
• Air leaks after the MAF
• Vacuum Leaks
• PCV system
• Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
• EGR System:
• Leaking gasket
• Stuck EGR valve
• Leaking diaphragm or EVR
• Base Engine:
• Oil overfill
• Cam timing
• Cylinder compression
• Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)