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I failed to mention companion flange index that you covered.
I went back and added all important details I could think of.
I suppose it is common knowledge to wipe grease on seal rubber before installing. It does take some leverage to manipulate the pinion nut and lock rear wheels.
The actual seals are cheap. Jay rod you must get raped on labor charges. I bought the seal at auto zone and my transmission shop fixed me right up. I have no leaks or problems.
You don't have to use a new crush sleeve, unless you get the nut too tight while putting it all back together--here's the R ' R from the shop manual...
It even says in the shop manual page you provided to use a new nut... I am not saying it is a must to replace it, but a lot of shops will only do something the way the book says so.
It even says in the shop manual page you provided to use a new nut... I am not saying it is a must to replace it, but a lot of shops will only do something the way the book says so.
That is true--however I thought we were talking about crush sleeves?
It even says in the shop manual page you provided to use a new nut... I am not saying it is a must to replace it, but a lot of shops will only do something the way the book says so.
Does not hurt to use a new nut. New nut typically has a thread locking compound already brushed on. Can use old nut w/ loctite and ping the nut once in position.
If use new crush sleeve you should take pinion assembly out of rear end so you can properly set bearing preload. If overshoot preload specs you must discard crush sleeve and start over..