So...I started the motor with the heads/cams
 

I have to fix some exhaust leaks and get a new pcv valve in order to get it to run right and hear the motor clearly but there is definately some noise coming from the drivers side head. I am hoping that its just the lash adjusters being really noisy since they have been dry for a few months and that it will go away. How long does it typically take for lash adjuster noise to go away?

i recently replaced all 32 (4v motor) of my lash adjusters and the sound had pretty much stopped when the engine was warm.

Lovely....pray for me lol

What heads (more importantly what intake valve was used) and what cams did you install?

Oh we're praying lol...

It was sxynerds old set up. And I had the cams degreed properly. They are patriot stages 2 heads with upgraded parts and cms 2.5 blower cams

Oh ok...well then idk...id say you should be good to go..but then im not a mechanic by any means. lol

But that should be a great set up. You should probably look into a forged bottom end...cuz you're gonna be pushin a lot more power now!

It will take few miles mine took almost like 200 until the noise went away since the cams and springs were dry fro 4 months.

Been there done that lol, bottom end is good for like 1000 hp. Teksid block, cobra crank, DSS rods and pistons.

I took it for a spin and the car is still making that kinda knock-like noise it made last time which is why I pulled the motor and got it looked at in the first place. So it must be in the trans since that is the only thing that i haven't changed. Its throwing 3 fuel related codes, one for the sending unit which is why its reading below E on the gauge. It must be stuck from sitting for so long. The other two are P0453 FTP sensor circuit and P0190 fuel rail pressure sensor so I am gonna have to fool around with those

I will be honest in that I install new lash adjusters dry and if the motor isn't totally silent in about 3 seconds after the initial start there is a problem somewhere. Either the lash adjuster is sticking or something is clearancing itself if it takes more than few seconds for any noises to go away.

Hmmm well I guess I'll just see how it plays out.

Here is a short not-so-good idle video for everyone's enjoyment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcn5_MWYEe4

Post that vid on my CMS Facebook page when ya get a chance! :)

I'll get a better video than that for you

why the hell doesn't my cms 2.5 blower cams sound like that? Is it my STEEDA Catback? That sounds much meaner than mine does night and day difference.

They were properly degreed by a buddy who is a Ford Motor Tech.

Its not tuned yet so maybe its got a little bit more of a rough idle than it will when its tuned which may make it sound meaner.

Does anyone have any ideas as to why my car is throwing those 3 codes I mentioned? Would the car sitting for a while/being jacked up for a while make the fuel level sender stick which would throw the one code?

Alot of it is in the tune. What is your idle rpm set at?

So the the P0190 code went away. Now all thats left is P0460 and P0453. For some reason my little metal flap that is spring loaded in my gas filler neck is stuck and doesn't close. The spring is actually keeping it open. I think this is what is giving me the P0453 FTP code. The flap wasn't broken before I parked my car so I can't think of how that flap would get messed up.

700 rpms

P0460 - FUEL LEVEL SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

Thank you Mr obvious. It wasn't a problem before so I had asked if the car sitting would cause the level sensor to mess up. The little fuel filler neck flap is also an issue

I was being facetious... That's why it was in caps.. ;)

My little metal flap is also stuck open with no codes/problems

Lol oh Oook. Maybe a mouse or something chewed some of my fuel hat wires ha. Lizzy: I am going down to matts 2maro to pick up my friends engine so we shall see what he thinks.