2v Rebuild
10-19-2010, 04:54 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 312
2v Rebuild
I'm about to rebuild my motor and I wanted to get any lessons learned from anyone that has done this before I rip in and find something I need to buy or will have problems with. I am putting in New heads and forged internals. I am also sending the block off to be honed. I am replacing my intake manifold and the motor mounts and the rebuild kit comes with a new oil pump. Oh I'm also changing the Head bolts out for Head Studs since I'm boosted. I am buying the dished pistons so that I can put in more boost and I'm getting my Procharger sent off to have the D-1 internals installed. Any advice would be appreciated!
10-19-2010, 05:26 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 931
Get some arp main studs and arp side bolts aswell. If you're going to assemble the motor get a piston ring filer and some feeler gauges. A dial indicator with magnetic base is nice to check crank endplay. I'd also buy this book, I used it when I built my motor. http://www.jegs.com/i/S-A-Designs/84...ductId=1192831
Last edited by Chris98Gt; 10-19-2010 at 05:30 PM.
10-19-2010, 08:28 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 312
I already have the ARP studs and end bolts on order and I already have all the calibration equipment because one I want to check my crank thrust before I put it together and two I need it for final torques and installing the pistons as well. But when you did your rebuild did you run into any small snags that made you have to buy anything new or anything like that? Also I'm filing down my cylinders around the machine point to help stop hot spots in the motor and I'm also going to take apart the new heads I just bought to check for any metal shavings or anything that needs filed down. How many miles were on your mustang?
10-20-2010, 06:28 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 312
well u always have machine marks on cylinders and roods and heads. they create hot spots in the cylinder walls. this will be my 3rd engine to build and all the other engines ive built have been done perfectly and are still running to this day. another trick is to mask of the side walls of the pistons and sandblast the dish top. the chrome finish causes a bad hot spot for some reason. i learned all my tech from a drag car racer engine builder. hes an old man but his tech is on point.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
