can a 2004 gt engine handle a 60 dry shot?
12-10-2010, 04:32 PM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 670
If you put the nozzle in before the MAF, yes it will be "safer". There is no way of knowing how much safer it is without putting the car on a dyno and checking the a/f ratio.
As it is, you are injecting nitrous without adding any fuel. That is a huge no no. Basically what you are doing is adding a ton of oxygen without any fuel. That creates a much hotter burn and you could really mess up your motor that way.
I would suggest getting some NGK TR6 spark plugs and gap them around 0.035. Those plugs are 1 heat range colder than stock.
Also, if you have any type of performance tune loaded from a handheld you will want to return it to the stock tune before you spray it again. Performance tunes advance the ignition timing and that is exactly opposite of what you want to do when spraying nitrous into your motor.
As it is, you are injecting nitrous without adding any fuel. That is a huge no no. Basically what you are doing is adding a ton of oxygen without any fuel. That creates a much hotter burn and you could really mess up your motor that way.
I would suggest getting some NGK TR6 spark plugs and gap them around 0.035. Those plugs are 1 heat range colder than stock.
Also, if you have any type of performance tune loaded from a handheld you will want to return it to the stock tune before you spray it again. Performance tunes advance the ignition timing and that is exactly opposite of what you want to do when spraying nitrous into your motor.
12-10-2010, 05:28 PM
#13
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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ok tim you CANNOT spray a dry kit after the maf. spraying it after the maf is how a WET kit works, spraying a dry kit (REGUARDLESS of a tune) is DANGEROUS, not safer.
ok thats what i figured with the way you were talking. you HAVE to spray the nitrous BEFORE the maf. when you spray after the maf, your computer has no idea that nitrous was sprayed, so you get no additional fuel added. when you spray nitrous into the maf, it reads colder temperature and adds more fuel (since under normal circumstances colder air = denser = more air per volume = needs more gas to accomodate more oxygen). however, it NEEDS a dyno tune to know HOW MUCH fuel to add from the colder air.
you need to get colder plugs, ngk tr6's and i cant recall what exactly to gap them it, it may be in the nitrous stickies. someone said on another thread to do it to .042.
you need to keep premium fuel in your car, theres no "running it for hte night". because your still mixing premium with low grade and that lowers overall octane ratings.
for the love of god get a microswitch and wire it to your gas pedal atleast, and get a window switch. theres several possible and LIKELY ways you will blow your motor with a fast and the furious push button on the steering wheel...thats why REAL nitrous users dont use buttons.
Damn. First of all let me say I appreciate you telling me all this.
I have not regapped the plugs. They are at .054. I did inject it after the MAF near the throttle body. I only have shorties, o/r x-pipe, 255 walbro fp, RAM clutch, 9mm Ford racing wires oand that's it. For the night I ran 91 chevron. I was actually kidding about going with a bigger shot. I clearly understand that 60 is enough.
Another thing, if I hook the jet before the MAF will it be a bit safer? I just have the ZEX bottle with a NX selenoid. I have it hooked up exactly like the dude said above with the button being pressed with my shift hand. Haha damn
I have not regapped the plugs. They are at .054. I did inject it after the MAF near the throttle body. I only have shorties, o/r x-pipe, 255 walbro fp, RAM clutch, 9mm Ford racing wires oand that's it. For the night I ran 91 chevron. I was actually kidding about going with a bigger shot. I clearly understand that 60 is enough.
Another thing, if I hook the jet before the MAF will it be a bit safer? I just have the ZEX bottle with a NX selenoid. I have it hooked up exactly like the dude said above with the button being pressed with my shift hand. Haha damn
you need to get colder plugs, ngk tr6's and i cant recall what exactly to gap them it, it may be in the nitrous stickies. someone said on another thread to do it to .042.
you need to keep premium fuel in your car, theres no "running it for hte night". because your still mixing premium with low grade and that lowers overall octane ratings.
for the love of god get a microswitch and wire it to your gas pedal atleast, and get a window switch. theres several possible and LIKELY ways you will blow your motor with a fast and the furious push button on the steering wheel...thats why REAL nitrous users dont use buttons.
12-10-2010, 05:49 PM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 670
Btw, I have a wet kit on my car so I think I understand how it works.
To the OP, if you want to talk with somebody who can help you setup a good dry kit. PM mrtstang. Here's a link to his profile. https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...-mrtstang.html
Last edited by tim2002gt; 12-10-2010 at 06:05 PM.
12-10-2010, 06:32 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Might want to re-read my post.
Btw, I have a wet kit on my car so I think I understand how it works.
To the OP, if you want to talk with somebody who can help you setup a good dry kit. PM mrtstang. Here's a link to his profile. https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...-mrtstang.html
Btw, I have a wet kit on my car so I think I understand how it works.
To the OP, if you want to talk with somebody who can help you setup a good dry kit. PM mrtstang. Here's a link to his profile. https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...-mrtstang.html
12-10-2010, 07:40 PM
#18
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 4,039
Can you explain to me why having a dry kit is just plain dangerous? The engine doesn't care where the extra fuel comes from.........as long as the extra fuel is there
12-10-2010, 08:06 PM
#19
Go Texas!!!
Join Date: Jul 2009
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