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Thinking about doing a head/cam install

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Old 01-27-2011, 02:16 PM
  #11  
DreamerGT
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Yeah I was wondering about that, having good usable power through out the whole range and not just up top. Now is there a real difference between MHS cams and CMS cam?
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:18 PM
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lizzyfan
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Originally Posted by DreamerGT
Yeah I was wondering about that, having good usable power through out the whole range and not just up top. Now is there a real difference between MHS cams and CMS cam?
I plead the 5th on that one
Jim (CMS) and Nick (MHS) are both good guys and have excellent products but....................
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:19 PM
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mustangmancp
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Yea i wouldn't recomend TF w/ a stock bottom end. I got a forged bottom end w/ cams and intake so i can spin the motor to get the gains.

I don't mind it driving around it didn't affect the "driveablitiy" but you will lose some bottom end but not a crazy amount. Since you have 4.10s i think that will help.
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Old 01-27-2011, 02:19 PM
  #14  
PurpleIcedGT
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I'd say the different would be PTV clearance....among a few other things.

(Regarding CMS vs. MHS)
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Old 01-27-2011, 03:18 PM
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tbirdscwd
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MHS cam profiles tend to be a little mellow compared to the same "stage" as other companies. Just keep that in mind if you decide to use their cams. My vote goes to CMS stage 2s and a nice set of ported PI heads. The stock bottom end doesn't hold together at the RPMs that the TFS heads like.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:02 PM
  #16  
teej281
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Tfs heads function with the stock intake below 6500rpm, which is fine. Mach's spin to 6800rpm with a little bit better damper. The key to the use of tfs heads is maintaining the stock intake manifold. Using that manifold will allow you to keep your rpm's down and still allow for great power to be made. This is what nick says anyways.

Taken right from mhs.com...

"*
NA 4.6 with a stock bottom end and you absolutely positively will not remove the pistons to notch them.* In this case you can get another 10-30RWHP mainly because you can fit a better cam spec, typically 220-233 of intake duration advanced well into the 106 intake centerline range.* This holds true only for the PI plastic intake as once you use these heads with any other real intake the RPM will skyrocket past what the stock shortblock can handle."
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:16 PM
  #17  
Xemeth
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Originally Posted by mustangmancp
If you're doing the install yourself id buy the whole package...that way they're degree'd and everything already...will save you A LOT of headache and time.

Plus you're getting some kicka** heads and cams from those guys.
How will the cams already be degreed? He's just getting heads and cams, it's not an assembled long block.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:16 PM
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tbirdscwd
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Don't get me wrong, if I was going to outright buy a set of heads, there is no way in hell I would spend the money on a set of ported PI heads with the TFS heads now on the market. Nick makes a good point there, advancing the ICL into the 106 range and keeping the stock plastic intake manifold will keep those heads making good power/tq in a usable range for people with stock bottom ends. Cam selection and installation makes a world of difference for a build like this as well. If you go with some of the popluar 230+ duration cams and install them at like 112-113 like their cards call for, you are going to be leaving a lot of power/tq on the table
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:19 PM
  #19  
tbirdscwd
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Originally Posted by Xemeth
How will the cams already be degreed? He's just getting heads and cams, it's not an assembled long block.
Nick degrees the cams to the cam gears and provides a set of adjustable crank gears and instructions as to where to set them.. According to him, it will get your cams "degreed" in the +/- 1 degree of each other.....which isn't perfect, but WAY better than just throwing them in there with the stock gears.
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Old 01-27-2011, 05:22 PM
  #20  
DreamerGT
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Very interesting, anyone have or seen any NA dyno sheets with any of these heads and stock bottem end?

Last edited by DreamerGT; 01-27-2011 at 05:25 PM.
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