New Suspension
#22
My car came equiped with the Bullitt suspension. I have spent nearly $2000 on suspension upgrades for it. I will immediately note that I still have not yet installed the MM panhard bar, but I am quite disappointed in the return I have gotten for my money! Before I bought all the suspension gear, I had simply added a pair of Eibach swaybars and frankly wish that I had stayed with that set-up. It was a pretty good compromize of handling and ride comfort (the spring rates were pretty good for a DD street car). The worst aspects of that set-up was the fender gap was still WAY too large (trimming the springs a little would have helped that a bit for free). Also the rear suspension was a bit harsh over sharp bumps.
Rather than get the Bullitt package, I would be inclined to get H&R springs/Koni STR.T shocks and FLSFC. That will be over $500, but falls closer to the $700 figure. If you go for springs with a big drop, you will also need to invest in a good pair of CC Plates (MM are nice).
As long as it fits in your budget, I'd go with whatever JAZZER recommends!!!
Rather than get the Bullitt package, I would be inclined to get H&R springs/Koni STR.T shocks and FLSFC. That will be over $500, but falls closer to the $700 figure. If you go for springs with a big drop, you will also need to invest in a good pair of CC Plates (MM are nice).
As long as it fits in your budget, I'd go with whatever JAZZER recommends!!!
#23
My car came equiped with the Bullitt suspension. I have spent nearly $2000 on suspension upgrades for it. I will immediately note that I still have not yet installed the MM panhard bar, but I am quite disappointed in the return I have gotten for my money! Before I bought all the suspension gear, I had simply added a pair of Eibach swaybars and frankly wish that I had stayed with that set-up. It was a pretty good compromize of handling and ride comfort (the spring rates were pretty good for a DD street car). The worst aspects of that set-up was the fender gap was still WAY too large (trimming the springs a little would have helped that a bit for free). Also the rear suspension was a bit harsh over sharp bumps.
Rather than get the Bullitt package, I would be inclined to get H&R springs/Koni STR.T shocks and FLSFC. That will be over $500, but falls closer to the $700 figure. If you go for springs with a big drop, you will also need to invest in a good pair of CC Plates (MM are nice).
As long as it fits in your budget, I'd go with whatever JAZZER recommends!!!
Rather than get the Bullitt package, I would be inclined to get H&R springs/Koni STR.T shocks and FLSFC. That will be over $500, but falls closer to the $700 figure. If you go for springs with a big drop, you will also need to invest in a good pair of CC Plates (MM are nice).
As long as it fits in your budget, I'd go with whatever JAZZER recommends!!!
#24
Since I live in the north and drive in winter i decided to go with a different route than i normally would. For me, I want the best bang for the buck while taking into account road/wheather conditions. (Went with the bullitt suspesnion pack because of this). I agree with TrueBlue about going with H&R springs/Koni Stuts&shocks/ Eibach swaybars/ Maxium Motorsports LCA's & FLSFC's. Thats about 800 maybe 900 bucks (IDK excatly)...its imo a worthy street suspension set-up. Because that's only x2 more expensive and you get alot more.
#25
It's not that it sucks. Rather and I agree there's better options out there that you can choose to do over the bullitt kit. To play.... ya gotta play But for the money it cost it's a good kit. But it all depends how much you want to spend and what your aiming for.
Since I live in the north and drive in winter i decided to go with a different route than i normally would. For me, I want the best bang for the buck while taking into account road/wheather conditions. (Went with the bullitt suspesnion pack because of this). I agree with TrueBlue about going with H&R springs/Koni Stuts&shocks/ Eibach swaybars/ Maxium Motorsports LCA's & FLSFC's. Thats about 800 maybe 900 bucks (IDK excatly)...its imo a worthy street suspension set-up. Because that's only x2 more expensive and you get alot more.
Since I live in the north and drive in winter i decided to go with a different route than i normally would. For me, I want the best bang for the buck while taking into account road/wheather conditions. (Went with the bullitt suspesnion pack because of this). I agree with TrueBlue about going with H&R springs/Koni Stuts&shocks/ Eibach swaybars/ Maxium Motorsports LCA's & FLSFC's. Thats about 800 maybe 900 bucks (IDK excatly)...its imo a worthy street suspension set-up. Because that's only x2 more expensive and you get alot more.
#26
We can talk more about the suspension stuff tomorrow when we all get together. I don't have any strong complaints about the Bullitt set-up, but there are some reasonably inexpensive configurations that will provide better handling.
Since you have springs already, you could think about Koni STR.T shocks (a good cost effective shock) and your choice of swaybar kits (I like the Eibach kit). I could probably be talked out of my Bullitt shocks and swaybars pretty easily. They had about 36,000 miles on them when I pulled them off the car.
Since you have springs already, you could think about Koni STR.T shocks (a good cost effective shock) and your choice of swaybar kits (I like the Eibach kit). I could probably be talked out of my Bullitt shocks and swaybars pretty easily. They had about 36,000 miles on them when I pulled them off the car.
#27
I say get the bullitt kit and trim the springs 1/4 coil up front and 1/2 coil out back... Win win it will ride great
Good catch teej. Reading your post made me wonder why you were questioning me. So I reread my post and I fudged up. Thanks buddy
P.S. - yes, I know they are the same suspensions!
Last edited by hpwrestler220; 02-12-2011 at 12:40 AM.
#28
Good. Now that we are all on the same page, we can move forward. lol
I started looking around, and thought this might intrigue you to save a little bit more...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=957
Its the MM Sport box and has shocks/struts, H&R springs, C/C plates, Panhard Bar(to take care of the side-to-side wiggle...thanks UCA'S!!!), subframe connectors, and a bunch of bracing. I think this would be perfect for you, although its more expensive than you originally wanted to go. Also, I would talk to them about upgrading to the STR.T Koni shocks and struts and that would only be another like $40.
Just some food for thought! You can always call them and get rid of some of the stuff out of the package and bring the cost down, like the strut tower brace, k-member brace, and stuff like that.
I started looking around, and thought this might intrigue you to save a little bit more...
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=957
Its the MM Sport box and has shocks/struts, H&R springs, C/C plates, Panhard Bar(to take care of the side-to-side wiggle...thanks UCA'S!!!), subframe connectors, and a bunch of bracing. I think this would be perfect for you, although its more expensive than you originally wanted to go. Also, I would talk to them about upgrading to the STR.T Koni shocks and struts and that would only be another like $40.
Just some food for thought! You can always call them and get rid of some of the stuff out of the package and bring the cost down, like the strut tower brace, k-member brace, and stuff like that.
#29
The issue I have with that kit, is the exclusion of a TA for a continued use of the UCA's
This kit would appear to need the "poor man's tri-link" to relieve most of the binding.
What this ultimately ALL comes down to, IMO, is the issue of what to do with the UCA's. To get from the OEM level to better, this or the Bullitt kit is gonna get you there. The OP sounds like the Bullitt kit is gonna be the best bet.
The issue becomes the degree in which the upgrade of additional/different parts to go beyond his described needs/wants of the OP. This is why I always say, but was "schooled" by my boy on this thread....
If the answer comes back to the first post of this thread, then the Bullitt kit is gonna be the way to go
Jazzer got schooled
This kit would appear to need the "poor man's tri-link" to relieve most of the binding.
What this ultimately ALL comes down to, IMO, is the issue of what to do with the UCA's. To get from the OEM level to better, this or the Bullitt kit is gonna get you there. The OP sounds like the Bullitt kit is gonna be the best bet.
The issue becomes the degree in which the upgrade of additional/different parts to go beyond his described needs/wants of the OP. This is why I always say, but was "schooled" by my boy on this thread....
What is the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?
If the answer comes back to the first post of this thread, then the Bullitt kit is gonna be the way to go
Jazzer got schooled
#30
As is almost always the case with going fast or cornering hard, it comes down to budget. The better you want it to be, the more it is going to cost.
If budget is tight, which I know it is for a lot of young students, an upgrade to the Bullitt kit is a decent compromise of cost, handling and ride. If a little more money is available, hand selecting different springs, shocks and adding a FLSFC is good. After that, new LCA are in order. Finally, you get into set-ups with panhard bars and torque arms. It all comes down to budget and the end goal. If the end goal is to have a very good handling car, you simply have to wait longer and save more money rather than installing cheaper parts now and trying to over come their shortcomings later.
If budget is tight, which I know it is for a lot of young students, an upgrade to the Bullitt kit is a decent compromise of cost, handling and ride. If a little more money is available, hand selecting different springs, shocks and adding a FLSFC is good. After that, new LCA are in order. Finally, you get into set-ups with panhard bars and torque arms. It all comes down to budget and the end goal. If the end goal is to have a very good handling car, you simply have to wait longer and save more money rather than installing cheaper parts now and trying to over come their shortcomings later.
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