stl. B

Thank you,thank you,thank you!!

I was going to take the car to a shop after reading the haynes manual, then I came across this thread and your ford factory manual and think this looks do-able.

Again thanks alot.

cliffyk

One note: You do not have to break the fuel line on the passenger side, there is plenty of slack to move the fuel rails off to the side/rear without disconnecting the line.

stl. B

Ok it's done and only took about 5-6 hrs. That guide is awfully handy so once more thanks Cliff

But if I could pick your brain a little more................It now has a miss when under load but it hasnt thrown a code.
A couple of the coils/boots took a good soaking with anti-freeze and plenty made it past the seals on the boots and down into the plug wells. I rolled up shop towels and shoved them down there to sop up the A/F but maybe not need to do a little more.

Should I remove the plugs and clean with de-greaser (mean green maybe) or plan on buying plugs and a couple coils.

What is the most logical next step ?

cliffyk

Pull the COPs and disassemble the lower end (pull off the boot and spring) and clean it all up, including the connector sockets on the COP, with WD-40--wipe dry and reassemble. This is what a COP looks like when you pull off the boot, the spring conductor just pulls off the spade lug in the COP:



The once once you have the plug wells as dry as you can get them with the plugs in (compressed air is best), pull the plugs and clean them up as well. A small bit of coolant may weep down into the cylinder but don't worry about it as is will blow out quickly.

Clean the plug wells with a rag sprayed with WD-40, but do not spray it directly into the plug wells. Put it all back together and all should be well--unless a COP was burned out by being shorted through the coolant, which is a possibility if you drove a lot at high-speed while the plugs were filled with coolant...

stl. B

I'll try that tomorrow, I've replaced two coils already and would'nt be suprised if I wont be replacing more soon.

I'm tempted to just change the plugs again and order the excel coil set that American muscle has and be done with it. But who knows I'm sure if cleaning them up a little more does it I would leave well enough alone.

You really just spray WD-40 all over and into the coil?.........seems like the oil as light as it maybe would cause you problems. Would contact cleaner/ mass air cleaner be good enough?

cliffyk

I had very poor experience with the Accel COPs. I bought a NIB set for $60 at a swap meet in Daytona 3 years ago, they ran fine for 18k miles and then three failed within a span of 10 days. On my COP Tester/Destroyer¹ (CTD) I can burn one up with fewer than 20 rapid full power dumps.

They are made by a company named Micro-Tech, as are the OEM Ford units, however as they were made to allegedly produce more power they draw more current and less heat tolerant that the stock coils.

You can get a set of these DG-508 coils on eBay for $80.


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¹-Here's the CTD in action, that a Weapon X COP connected to the unit, there are a couple of Accel COPs in back.



Here's a video of a stock COP blowing through a 16 mm (0.630") air gap.

stl. B

I would've expected better from Accel.

Thats a super price on those coils, are they good quality ?

cliffyk

It takes some relatively sophisticated machinery to wind and mold COPs, that's why everyone--Accel, Granatelli, MSD and others--buy them from Micro-Tech, if those are not made by Micro-Tech and are not just plain ol' Ford OEM product I would very surprised.

I have bought from this vendor in the past, though not COPs, they have been an eBay vendor since 1999, and have 98.2% positive feedback with 88,000+ sales. That is not too shabby. Heck, they are cheaper than/same as spark plugs for a 3V...

Kong1965

So, I've followed the instructions, and pulled the stock intake off, replaced gaskets with brand new Fel Pros, reinstalled, and after fixing a leak on the thermostat housing, had a good seal with no leaks. Let the car idle for at least 30 minutes, revved it, still no leaks, I think I'm golden.

Shut it off, put the hood back on, get up the next day to drive it to the car wash and clean it up. As soon as it starts, it's spraying coolant from just behind the alternator. I think "crap the original intake is cracked", call AM, have them overnight one with the aluminum crossover.

Same drill everything off. Everything clean. Gasket in place. Install new intake, bolt everything down to torque specs, fill with fluid. Fire it up. Coolant is leaking down the drivers side of the block for about 10 seconds, then stops. Engine warms up. No leaks. No coolant loss, no steam, nothing. I think, "maybe the gasket wasn't seated, and the pressure from the coolant pushed it into place, I'm ok.

Next day. Start it up, no leak. Drive to car wash, clean car. Park overnight.

Get up today to get it emissions tested. Same freakin' deal. Coolant runs down the driver's side of the block for 10 seconds, stops, engine heats up, runs fine, no leaks, no steam, no loss of coolant other than the first ten seconds.

WTF??!!!

Any suggestions other than taking that damn intake off again? (although, I've got it down to about 3 hours start to finish at this point).

I can't see a leak at the thermostat housing, it's right in the middle of the intake about between the first and second cylinders on the driver's side.

Repzard

Did you see any pitting on the head side where intake mounts.
My friends GT had bad pitting on coolant port (where termo stat is Drivers side) of head and leaked.

Is it wet in that area on yours?
If so my guess is this is your problem.

If its not that then could be a cracked head