Ruh-Roh Raggy... Intake Manifold cracked due to overheating?
06-10-2011, 08:09 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 77
Ruh-Roh Raggy... Intake Manifold cracked due to overheating?
2001 GT 78k
Is it possible for the intake manifold to crack (plastic piece-of-sh*t) due to low coolant overheating?
Wifes been driving the stang while I drive my Grand Marquis (I'm 6'7"). Car had since developed an apparent thermo gasket leak, fluid ran low, car ran hot up to 3/4 way on the gauge, car jerked & stalled, she pulled over, we got it towed.
Dude at the shop it was towed to, not my ASE friend that does all my work, said the following:
Car ran low on fluid, the temp gauge wasn't a "true" reading of the engine temp because the sensor was reading "air temps" not fluid temps because the fluid was too low.
Does that sound accurate?
In short dude says the intake manifold cracked from overheating and needs replacing. Dude also said there's a tap which is probably a lifter. Dude quoted a price of $225 for another plastic IM and $160 to install it. Seems reasonable by shop standards but whatev. My friend will do it for like $60, if that. But if it's gotta be replaced, I don't want another plastic IM.
I went to American Muscle but didn't see the metal IM that they used to have on sale a while back for around $225 but rather another plastic one for $170 or the next lowest price was an Edelbrock Victor Jr. for $330 which is a bit more than I want to spend. I haven't looked at Craigslist yet.
Ideas? Suggestions?
Is it possible for the intake manifold to crack (plastic piece-of-sh*t) due to low coolant overheating?
Wifes been driving the stang while I drive my Grand Marquis (I'm 6'7"). Car had since developed an apparent thermo gasket leak, fluid ran low, car ran hot up to 3/4 way on the gauge, car jerked & stalled, she pulled over, we got it towed.
Dude at the shop it was towed to, not my ASE friend that does all my work, said the following:
Car ran low on fluid, the temp gauge wasn't a "true" reading of the engine temp because the sensor was reading "air temps" not fluid temps because the fluid was too low.
Does that sound accurate?
In short dude says the intake manifold cracked from overheating and needs replacing. Dude also said there's a tap which is probably a lifter. Dude quoted a price of $225 for another plastic IM and $160 to install it. Seems reasonable by shop standards but whatev. My friend will do it for like $60, if that. But if it's gotta be replaced, I don't want another plastic IM.
I went to American Muscle but didn't see the metal IM that they used to have on sale a while back for around $225 but rather another plastic one for $170 or the next lowest price was an Edelbrock Victor Jr. for $330 which is a bit more than I want to spend. I haven't looked at Craigslist yet.
Ideas? Suggestions?
06-10-2011, 10:01 AM
#2
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
Wifes been driving the stang while I drive my Grand Marquis (I'm 6'7"). Car had since developed an apparent thermo gasket leak, fluid ran low, car ran hot up to 3/4 way on the gauge, car jerked & stalled, she pulled over, we got it towed.
Dude at the shop it was towed to, not my ASE friend that does all my work, said the following:
Car ran low on fluid, the temp gauge wasn't a "true" reading of the engine temp because the sensor was reading "air temps" not fluid temps because the fluid was too low.
Does that sound accurate?
In short dude says the intake manifold cracked from overheating and needs replacing. Dude also said there's a tap which is probably a lifter. Dude quoted a price of $225 for another plastic IM and $160 to install it. Seems reasonable by shop standards but whatev. My friend will do it for like $60, if that. But if it's gotta be replaced, I don't want another plastic IM.
Sound's to me at that price like he is planning on getting a Dorman manifold from a local FLAPS--do NOT do that it is a real piece of crap. Even NAPA sells this POS--see more below.
$160 for labor is not bad--the guy's not fixing cars as a charity...
I went to American Muscle but didn't see the metal IM that they used to have on sale a while back for around $225 but rather another plastic one for $170 or the next lowest price was an Edelbrock Victor Jr. for $330 which is a bit more than I want to spend. I haven't looked at Craigslist yet.
Ideas? Suggestions?
You will not find a good aluminum manifold for less than $500, other than the various Chinese Trick Flow clones on eBay.
The Victor Jr. will require an adapter to mount the OEM plenum ($75-$100) or a universal 4-barrel throttle body ($350-$400), and new fuel rails ($250), and I think different fuel injectors.
Also if using the stock upper plenum, and without a new tune, it will likely not perform as well as the stock intake...
06-10-2011, 12:20 PM
#4
I had to have my intake manifold replaced and it was about the same price. The fix was between $400-$500.
If you have a friend who does cheap work, I say go for it. And I don't think you need an aluminum intake manifold. Not if it's your wife's car and the first one lasted this long. I doubt you'd mind replacing it again if the car makes it to 160,000, ya know.
If you have a friend who does cheap work, I say go for it. And I don't think you need an aluminum intake manifold. Not if it's your wife's car and the first one lasted this long. I doubt you'd mind replacing it again if the car makes it to 160,000, ya know.
06-10-2011, 12:56 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 10,551
an aftermarket lower intake wont beef anything up. You need ported heads and some good cams to take full advantage of it. Your mid range torque will be noticeably distant if you get an aftermarket manifold.
Stick with OEM type lower unless you plan to spin the block to 6500+.
Stick with OEM type lower unless you plan to spin the block to 6500+.
06-10-2011, 01:58 PM
#7
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 77
Yeah I kind of figured that after thinking about it. But at a minimum I was gonna get it for durability (plastic vs metal) but once I saw American Muscle didn't have the $200+ aluminum part, I figured I would go stock. Plus, another member said he has a used one for sale at a decent price.
Thanks for your input guys.
Thanks for your input guys.
06-10-2011, 07:45 PM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: FLorida
Posts: 334
What about the tap....Id be worried about a possible bearing issue from thermal breakdown due to overheating.
Maybe ask him to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge underneath, and get a true accurate reading of the oil pressure.
I had a few vehicles that the guages were sitting pretty but I suspected low oil pressure..one was sitting on 5psi hot...and one was not moving the needle when it got hot.
Maybe ask him to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge underneath, and get a true accurate reading of the oil pressure.
I had a few vehicles that the guages were sitting pretty but I suspected low oil pressure..one was sitting on 5psi hot...and one was not moving the needle when it got hot.
06-10-2011, 08:14 PM
#9
What about the tap....Id be worried about a possible bearing issue from thermal breakdown due to overheating.
Maybe ask him to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge underneath, and get a true accurate reading of the oil pressure.
I had a few vehicles that the guages were sitting pretty but I suspected low oil pressure..one was sitting on 5psi hot...and one was not moving the needle when it got hot.
Maybe ask him to hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge underneath, and get a true accurate reading of the oil pressure.
I had a few vehicles that the guages were sitting pretty but I suspected low oil pressure..one was sitting on 5psi hot...and one was not moving the needle when it got hot.
get a GPS for the speedo and aftermarket everything else...
the stock fuel gauge MIGHT be kinda accurate...
08-17-2011, 07:57 AM
#10
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 77
*yawn*
Well I finally ordered all the parts that needs replacing. FRPI Intake Manifold from AM for $160 shipped. My discount code from 01-09 still worked. lol
Intake gaskets, thermostat & gasket, coolant. All parts came to $203. I have an ASE friend that will r&r for around $75.
Just for s&g, does anyone know of a tutorial/walk-thru on replacing the intake?
The sad thing is this intake was out and sitting on the shop floor less than a year ago because of a leaking freeze plug on the drivers side head. :\
Has anyone ever heard of an engine getting so HOT that it thins the oil to the point of where it can leak through the rear main seal? The shop said it's not leaking anymore but that's why it leaked out originally.
Well I finally ordered all the parts that needs replacing. FRPI Intake Manifold from AM for $160 shipped. My discount code from 01-09 still worked. lol
Intake gaskets, thermostat & gasket, coolant. All parts came to $203. I have an ASE friend that will r&r for around $75.
Just for s&g, does anyone know of a tutorial/walk-thru on replacing the intake?
The sad thing is this intake was out and sitting on the shop floor less than a year ago because of a leaking freeze plug on the drivers side head. :\
Has anyone ever heard of an engine getting so HOT that it thins the oil to the point of where it can leak through the rear main seal? The shop said it's not leaking anymore but that's why it leaked out originally.
Last edited by rollintechno; 08-17-2011 at 08:03 AM.