Tubular K Member
 

ok fellow droogs, ive been pondering the situation of a tubular k member for a few weeks so i can try and gain some clearance with my longtubes and also drop a few pounds off my fobra. i dont plan on doing coilovers at all so im just wondering what k member you guys would suggest that is strong and has good fitment without breaking the bank.

.....oh and this is for uber.



http://fashionindie.com/wp-content/u...ttoo-shark.jpg

I don't have any problems with my QA1. Much lighter, so much more header clearance and cheap. I got mine used locally for $75. I can take off my headers in about 30 minutes.

ive been thinking about this too actually, i know MM is a good choice but major $$$

anyone have any good suggestions (thanks wannabe, ill see if i can find one up here)

Are u running ur stock a arms???

for now, but ill be swapping them out when i do the K member

im thinking about getting the UPR kit, but i keep hearing mixed reviews about them...

How much weight will be dropped off the front end with a QA1 or UPR k member?

IIRC >50lbs

its like 75+ doing the K, a arms and coil overs

is there a k member that you can use the stock a arms??? im really just looking to get clearance for these damn lts. im hoping its a direct swap with no fab work

The UPR coilover kit I have is junk IMO. They don't come with sleeve notches so they spin and make a lot of noise. I had to use an angle grinder to cut notches in them myself. After doing that they are quite. Still would NEVER buy them again.

With just the K member it will be quite a bit. The stock K member it was a struggle carrying around. The QA1 I could carry with one hand. So much lighter.

QA1, PA Racing and a few others I forget. The QA1 will need a good bit of grinder down the stock A arms to allow them to swivel up and down. A few bolt holes had to be drilled longer to fit.

From what I have seen the only way you can use a stock style a arm is to use a 4 cyl fox a arm. Now qa1 makes a perch to run stock style springs on tubular a arms.

how about the rest of the kit though, im going to run some MM coilovers, are the a arms and k member ok?

Well I have the QA1 K member with UPR's mild steel A arms. The A arms were fine but I'm guessing you were inquiring about the chromoly pieces.

I'm running a QA1 K member, UPR a arms, and upr coil overs. Everything fit perfect and was indeed an easy swap. Wannabe, sounds like u got some casting flaw because the UPR sleeves are indeed notched, I've never heard of anyone selling coil overs with out the notch for the struts to prevent them from moving, mine don't make any noise at all and definatly do not spin around.
KUGZ, the tatoo is pure win.

I run a PA racing K member
Perfect fitment and using their arms that come with spring cups

PA Racing makes a good quality kit. A few of my friends have had QA1 stuff and didnt like the quality, but could have been flukes. I'd go with PA racing personally, but thats just me. But thats only if you cant go MM ;) lol

From a weoght saving standpoint the MM k member looks big and bulky.

The MM is not as light weight as say the UPR or others, but it is much stronger than the others as well. For a street car that goes through the stresses of street driving and racing, I wouldnt want something super light and built especially for racing anyways. I want something that is strong and will endure the rigors of the sh!t roads here in south central PA as well as hard cornering and hard launches and such.

Thats just me though.

I personally think UpR and qa1 is fine for street, i know tons of people than been runnimg em for over 4 years and 40k miles of daily driving and never had issues and that in Nepa

All the UPR parts I've ever had were hit or miss and I dont want the cradle holding my motor in my car to have quality that is hit or miss from my standpoint. QA1 isnt terrible, but my friend has their dampers and he's not happy with them.

But from weight/cost standpoint, its hard to ignore the UPR.

UPR doesn't notch their coilover sleeves anymore.

Teej, there is nothing wrong with my QA1 on the street. My guess is even a cheap K member like the QA1 is stronger or as strong as the stock K. Saying you wouldn't want a super lightweight K member holding your motor in place is silly. The chromoly K members are plenty strong enough, even at their light weight.

I didnt mean that I didnt want something light, I just dont want something thats built for racing purposes in mind, and not the stresses of street driving. UPR is a racing oriented company, specifically drag racing.

And I would take a QA1 over UPR any day of the week. Believe me. But I'd just like to stick to a little bit more robust design. And if you think I'm concerned with weight...Convertible, IRS, and heavy 18x10.5 wheels come to mind to suggest otherwise. lol Car probably weighs around 3800lbs if not more. Feels a lot lighter in the turns though for sure. But its a heavy car and theres no helping that.

go with MM...you get what you pay for.

UPR k member is a relabeled QA1 peice. As far is quality goes all there is to judge by is the welds and the material, and mild steel and cromoloy is the same material wether its MM or UPR, as long as the welding is good there isn't anything about it that can be "poor quality". Just my two cents.