DTC P0113
#1
DTC P0113
*IAT sensor above max voltage (4.6v)*
i checked my plug and it is reading 4.64V. That is 4.6V right? as in 7.8V would be high?
Does this mean my sensor is bad or do i start tracing wires from IAT plug To MAM plug?
Has anyone else had this same prob? There really isnt alot of info on how to fix this, except to replace the sensor!
i checked my plug and it is reading 4.64V. That is 4.6V right? as in 7.8V would be high?
Does this mean my sensor is bad or do i start tracing wires from IAT plug To MAM plug?
Has anyone else had this same prob? There really isnt alot of info on how to fix this, except to replace the sensor!
Last edited by The real Justino; 08-10-2011 at 06:30 PM.
#3
Click here to see what the shop manual says about P0113. The most likely cause is a bad sensor.
You can test the sensor with a multimeter, here is a chart of what the sensor's resistance should be at various temperatures:
Just unplug the electrical connector and test the resistance across its terminals, it should be near the value in the table for the current air temperature. For example, if the air temperature is 86°F the sensor's resistance should be near 24.27kΩ...
You can test the sensor with a multimeter, here is a chart of what the sensor's resistance should be at various temperatures:
Just unplug the electrical connector and test the resistance across its terminals, it should be near the value in the table for the current air temperature. For example, if the air temperature is 86°F the sensor's resistance should be near 24.27kΩ...
#4
Thanks... I actually asked an electrician at work today and explained it to me. He told me the sensor also.
I replaced the sensor about an hour ago. After 3 or 4 starts it started to idle close to normal, so i drove it to A.A. to check for codes.......no codes.
The car is still not driving 100%, it accelerates steady but feels like it has 80% of its normal power in 1st-3rd gear, 4th stumbles if its under 3000rpm.
OBD said "PASS CODES". but still drives ****ty, i drove about 4miles!
Any other thoughts?
I replaced the sensor about an hour ago. After 3 or 4 starts it started to idle close to normal, so i drove it to A.A. to check for codes.......no codes.
The car is still not driving 100%, it accelerates steady but feels like it has 80% of its normal power in 1st-3rd gear, 4th stumbles if its under 3000rpm.
OBD said "PASS CODES". but still drives ****ty, i drove about 4miles!
Any other thoughts?
#6
Can u test an O2 sensor with MIL ELIM on? if not i actually have a extra o2 that i can make up a mil elim for i just need another capacitor.
P.s. Thanks in advance, i used your mil eliminator write up earlier this year when i put my O/R pipe on.
Last edited by The real Justino; 08-11-2011 at 06:49 PM.
#7
A bad rear O2 sensor will not affect engine control--all they do is monitor catalytic converter efficiency.
The only way to properly test a narrow band O2 sensor is the bench test described here; click on Testing a Platinum/Zirconia O2 Sensor...
The only way to properly test a narrow band O2 sensor is the bench test described here; click on Testing a Platinum/Zirconia O2 Sensor...
#9
"After pondering it for awhile" the prob did start minutes after a awesome burnout and i had my filter and tube off the day b4 and never put the screw on the cone back in. I quess its pretty possible that was moving around and broke a wire loose.
I rechecked and now i have no voltage so i will get the AIT sensor plug in the morning and clean out where my AIT & MAM ties into the next connection.
Hopefully this will solve my problem!!!!!
I rechecked and now i have no voltage so i will get the AIT sensor plug in the morning and clean out where my AIT & MAM ties into the next connection.
Hopefully this will solve my problem!!!!!
Last edited by The real Justino; 08-11-2011 at 11:25 PM.
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