UPRSharad

Light to light, like you're talking about with your Hondas at the light comment, the best improvement you can do for small money is to make the car launch hard.

Is the car automatic or manual?

Basically, you're looking at upgraded suspension, sticky tires, and a (numerically) bigger gear.

Let's a take a stock 5 speed '99 GT. A lot of people will run mid 14s in them. That leaves you vulnerable to the typical turbo imports out there that run 14s or maybe even 13s. I ran 13.89 @ 99.9 with a 2.0 60-foot in my stock 5-speed '99 GT. A 4.10 gear, UPR Products control arms, and M/T ET Streets on the stock tires would've dropped me down to around 1.60 60-foot times. (been there-done that on my other Mustangs) That 1.60 would put the car right at 12.99-13.00 on stock hp levels, which is enough to cover most of the common import cars out there.

Okay, so that was a big hypothetical situation there, but I was just trying to make a point. You don't need huge mods to be competitive. If the car hooks, you can spank a lot of people. $500 installed for a gear, $300 for the tires, $179 for all four UPR control arms... that's cost effective modding!

For what it's worth, last year my dd was an old '93 Coupe with only 236rwhp. (about the same as a stock 99-04) The car had UPR control arms and 17" M/T drag radials. Other than that, it was basically stock. One of local kids around here was bragging about his turbo Scion tC that laid down 400hp to the tire. (it really did) Once I reached the point that I couldn't take his bragging any more, I called him out. We met up at the "track" and lined em up. I straight cracked his head clean open!!! It was embarrassing! I felt guilty like I was clubbing baby seals or something, so I told him I'd give him a roll race since he spun so badly from a dig. No surprise, he walked me from a 60-roll. (he had a lighter car and almost twice the hp) But the point is this- If you're looking to dispatch the fast & the furious from light to light, just make the car hook and you'll be able to take care of all but the more seriously built compact cars.




I disagree for a lot of reasons. First, that suspension setup doesn't work well on the dragstrip. Second, I've never seen a car slow down with extra traction.

turbo232

of course you disagree. if UPR made a torque are you wouldbe claiming it was the greatest. and with a stock stall auto DRs will slow you down because you will bog. i tested this out with a buddies car Friday night. the car ran slower because it dropped the car out of the powerbad on the launch. i have driven in a car (03 Cobra) that was swapped to a live axle wth all UPR stuff. no he runs an MM torque arm and it runs faster on the strip and has more grip on the road.

trailor

i will take a more civil approach then my compadre turbo before me (no offense bro!), and ask simply, why does this not work?? i have done quite a bit of research on the rear suspension of the sn95 mustang, and have found that the only thing better than that setup, road course or drag strip, would be the watts link. i mean UCA's really bind the whole workings of what the rear suspension should be; eliminating them for a device that actually allows the suspension to move the way its supposed to sounds pretty ideal in any application, don't you agree??

turbo232

actually a watts link and a panhard bar are the same thing. the watt's link is just a little more complicated and does the exact same thing. the only time it's more benefecial is when you have alot of suspension travel.

and no offense trailor. i call it like i see it. a binding 4 link for use on the street is insane and will cause more issues than it solves. the 4 link's own design is greatly flawed. you remove the UCAs and go with a torque arm you remove the bind and pick up grip because the TA lifts the car from center instead of trying to pull the front up by the UCAs. you also have less chace of destroying your UCA mounts caused by ****ty UCAs.

Ryan86272

UPR has a pretty good rep on drag racing suspension. Go to any nmra event and check out most of those cars...

Also, you can buy all adjustable rear suspension that the big dogs run, but if you don't have someone to set it up correctly your screwed.

turbo232

drag racingand street driving are completely different stresses. i have seen what happens when you put a drag racing designed suspension on a street car....it isn't designed to take the different types of stress that turning a car produces. how many road racers use UPR? none, it will break....not IF itwill break, but a when. they use MM or Griggs.

Ryan86272

Didn't know we were talking about anything other than drag racing... OP was asking light to light, im assuming a straight line....

turbo232

it's a street car. and the torque arm still provides more grip

97stanger

if you are looking to just beat those 13 second hondas, just put nitrous on the car with some sticky tires. If you want to actually go fast, you need forced induction on a 2v motor.

turbo232

I am going to try to go sub 13s with bolt-ons and full suspension. it can be with a 5 speed...not sure about an auto vert with a cage.