99GTvert

...so this is what the top of the block looks like after a coolant leak from the ****ty plastic coolant crossover:




It was quite the lake. Used a turkey baster and a water bottle to clean it up...turns out it was about .75 liters. Cleaned it up enough to expose the W on the block (for windsor!!)



I assume this is a marking on the cylinder head indicating it is a PI head:



Here's the stock intake manifold:


Wonder what the 55 means..




I can see some coolant inside the head in the coolant port...that normal?

When I pulled all the spark plugs out, the three nearest the t-stat have dirty 'valleys' in the head (in other words, the deep hole that the rubber COP is found). Can I just wipe that **** with a paper towel or blast it with compressed air?

I'm gonna wipe down the mating surface for the new manifold/gaskets (hopefully it all arrives tomorrow..) then crank it a few times and hope nothing happens other than the motor turning over a few times. Then I'll put the new plugs in once I figure out how to use the torque wrench I just bought.

kj4kym

Yep that's about what mine looked like. I didn't do anything extra. I just changed the plugs??? And got new boots or wires or whatever they are called. Car fired right up after I was done... ran with a miss for a few minutes but after driving around the block everything was perfect. Drove for a bit then filled the overflow take up with coolant again... and going on 2 weeks now not a single problem. Even put down a 14.82 1/4

99GTvert

Did your spark plug holes along the driver's side also look dirty inside? Do you remember how much the rubber boots cost you? The ones I pulled out don't look bad though some have crusty crap on them which I'm going to wipe off.

I'm already in this small project 350+ bucks with buying parts and tools and etc., I'd rather not have to spend any more for a while.

Hangwire

Damn. I have my factory PI plastic intake sitting in the garage in great shape I woulda let you have it cheap but looks like you found one quick. Lucky mine never did this to me. Lasted till I swapped to the KB.

99GTvert

I kinda wish I had the funds to swap a KB on it instead....at least I'd do this assload of work and end up with ~100 more rwhp.

Hangwire

I'm honestly surprised that Kenne Bell has not lowered the price on their 2V 2.1L kit. I think it would do them a lot of good to drop it down to 3.5K-4K new. But who knows what their actual over-head is on manufacturing that kit. They might not have a lot of room to work with. But knowing Kenne Bell they probly have plenty to work with. Just not sure how cheap they can get the compressor parts machined(where all the cost is) with their contract.

kj4kym

There was dirt and crap everywhere... I just took a small flat blade and scraped as much as i could then sucked it up with the shop vac. I had to use a small long funnel duct taped to the end of the hose to reach in the small tight areas. Oh and it will be about $50 more. Id go ahead and do it now if you can
http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_10002187-P_x_x

^^^ hope that link works. If not search for the boot and coil

99GTvert

Cleaning the mating surface on the heads and discovered a divot on the outer rim of one of the coolant passageways:




What the ****? I don't think its small enough to where the gasket will cover it entirely. Any ideas on what to do? JBweld? RTV gasket the area?

Hangwire

Dude JB weld is going to crack over not too much time when heat cycled like that. That looks almost like acidity has eaten away at it thats like weird. Its borderline ruined man wow. I would use some high temp RTV on that. Maybe some of that stuff thats like ketchup? Smells, looks and feels like ketchup and is pretty stout. We use that at work on some vacuum heaters that get pretty damn hot that have to stay 100% vacuum sealed or the product doesnt work. Its also not real messy if you have to redo it some day. It stays pretty solid.

99GTvert

I'll look for some high temperature RTV at the parts store. Think it will be OK if I apply it kind of as a replacement of the chunk missing? Because as it is I doubt the gasket will cover it all but I figure if I can block off the divot so it looks and flows like it should stock, then it'll be like it wasn't a piece of **** to begin with.

Do those vacuum heaters at your work have a liquid cooling system which would show the RTV doesn't get eroded/washed away?

MAYBE IT'S SOMETHING LIKE THIS?

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81409.../dp/B000HBIB80

OR THESE?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=high+temp+rtv

The first one on the oreilly site lists a thermostat housing as one suggested use and that it resist auto and shop fluids. Temperature range goes up to ~650F, which I don't think anything in the engine bay gets that hot...so I'll probably end up with that.