Lowered on Stock Coils
07-25-2012, 10:30 AM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: East middle of no where, WV
Posts: 585
Yeah, so I've heard. C/C plates are gonna have to wait so I can't go any lower yet.
Also, I need new front control arm bushing on the pass. side...I did the drivers side 5 months ago when they crumbled and now the pass. side is doing the same. Why take it apart 2 more times? I'll do the spring and bushings at once.
I don't drive the car that much at all right now since I'm in college, and I'm not too worried about camber with the drop its got now. (okay, not really a drop...but its not lifted in the front any more.)
07-25-2012, 11:20 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: East middle of no where, WV
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07-25-2012, 11:28 AM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: GA
Posts: 261
That's my 03 V6 with 1 full coil cut off all the way around, no isolators, and 225/55/16 tires. This picture was probably 8 months after I cut them. The initial drop was noticeable, but it definitely settled in over time. Like you were saying sounds like a good idea to let them settle while you get all the bushing and everything to take them apart only one more time. The rears are SO MUCH EASIER!
What did you use to cut your springs? I had to go borrow something to get mine cut.
07-25-2012, 11:30 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: East middle of no where, WV
Posts: 585
That's my 03 V6 with 1 full coil cut off all the way around, no isolators, and 225/55/16 tires. This picture was probably 8 months after I cut them. The initial drop was noticeable, but it definitely settled in over time. Like you were saying sounds like a good idea to let them settle while you get all the bushing and everything to take them apart only one more time. The rears are SO MUCH EASIER!
What did you use to cut your springs? I had to go borrow something to get mine cut.
Your car looks good, could be a little lower though haha
07-25-2012, 12:46 PM
#16
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ky
Posts: 126
07-25-2012, 01:01 PM
#17
My thoughts exactly.
Just for reference, my Jeep's wheel gap is 4.5'' in the front and 5.5'' in the back. I'll measure my gf's 4Runner when she gets home from work.
Op, it needs moar low. Going lower and waiting on CC plates for a little won't wear your tires out.
07-25-2012, 01:35 PM
#18
Sorry for the long post, but Engineers are a little obsessive about details, we just can't help it...
When cutting stock springs, it is usually recommended only cutting 1/4 coil on some models and 1/2 coil (at a time) on other models that weigh more due to higher spring rates.
You got lucky on cutting a full coil the first time, but it still looks like you could go a little more by the pics, but be careful. The spring rate is not stiff enough to go any further without upgrading to stout shocks & struts, you are probably questionable now.
I would recommend Koni yellows, they are designed for such usage, plus they are easily adjustable to fine tune your ride.
Think of it like braking distance. Your OEM brake work well if you don't need to stop in a much shorter distance, but higher end brake systems will have no problem. It is similar that you are requiring the shocks & struts to stop a full load, but in a much shorter distance.
So by shortening the springs, you will be grossly over taxing normal/average shocks & struts. You will be into the jounce bumpers too easily and too often. You will have to be very careful when driving on bumpy surfaces, not recommended for a DD.
One more issue:
I see lots of people deleting the spring isolators on their Mustangs. This is not a good idea on a street car.
When a coil spring is compressed the spring metal actually twists on the C/L of the coil metal. This will translate into more road noise but will also gradually grind away at the mating surfaces because the spring is made of much harder steel. These ground surfaces will rust and eventually fail, but it could take many, many miles in some instances. The isolators prevent these issues.
I just upgraded to the M/M C/C plates and those things are a well designed work of art. They look good and work great. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost. I highly recommend them.
By cutting your springs, you will be in need of a new alignment. Some cars are worse than others, but you certainly do not want to burn through tires.
When cutting stock springs, it is usually recommended only cutting 1/4 coil on some models and 1/2 coil (at a time) on other models that weigh more due to higher spring rates.
You got lucky on cutting a full coil the first time, but it still looks like you could go a little more by the pics, but be careful. The spring rate is not stiff enough to go any further without upgrading to stout shocks & struts, you are probably questionable now.
I would recommend Koni yellows, they are designed for such usage, plus they are easily adjustable to fine tune your ride.
Think of it like braking distance. Your OEM brake work well if you don't need to stop in a much shorter distance, but higher end brake systems will have no problem. It is similar that you are requiring the shocks & struts to stop a full load, but in a much shorter distance.
So by shortening the springs, you will be grossly over taxing normal/average shocks & struts. You will be into the jounce bumpers too easily and too often. You will have to be very careful when driving on bumpy surfaces, not recommended for a DD.
One more issue:
I see lots of people deleting the spring isolators on their Mustangs. This is not a good idea on a street car.
When a coil spring is compressed the spring metal actually twists on the C/L of the coil metal. This will translate into more road noise but will also gradually grind away at the mating surfaces because the spring is made of much harder steel. These ground surfaces will rust and eventually fail, but it could take many, many miles in some instances. The isolators prevent these issues.
I just upgraded to the M/M C/C plates and those things are a well designed work of art. They look good and work great. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost. I highly recommend them.
By cutting your springs, you will be in need of a new alignment. Some cars are worse than others, but you certainly do not want to burn through tires.
Last edited by Old Mustanger; 07-25-2012 at 01:40 PM.
07-25-2012, 05:53 PM
#19
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: East middle of no where, WV
Posts: 585
Sorry for the long post, but Engineers are a little obsessive about details, we just can't help it...
When cutting stock springs, it is usually recommended only cutting 1/4 coil on some models and 1/2 coil (at a time) on other models that weigh more due to higher spring rates.
You got lucky on cutting a full coil the first time, but it still looks like you could go a little more by the pics, but be careful. The spring rate is not stiff enough to go any further without upgrading to stout shocks & struts, you are probably questionable now.
I would recommend Koni yellows, they are designed for such usage, plus they are easily adjustable to fine tune your ride.
Think of it like braking distance. Your OEM brake work well if you don't need to stop in a much shorter distance, but higher end brake systems will have no problem. It is similar that you are requiring the shocks & struts to stop a full load, but in a much shorter distance.
So by shortening the springs, you will be grossly over taxing normal/average shocks & struts. You will be into the jounce bumpers too easily and too often. You will have to be very careful when driving on bumpy surfaces, not recommended for a DD.
One more issue:
I see lots of people deleting the spring isolators on their Mustangs. This is not a good idea on a street car.
When a coil spring is compressed the spring metal actually twists on the C/L of the coil metal. This will translate into more road noise but will also gradually grind away at the mating surfaces because the spring is made of much harder steel. These ground surfaces will rust and eventually fail, but it could take many, many miles in some instances. The isolators prevent these issues.
I just upgraded to the M/M C/C plates and those things are a well designed work of art. They look good and work great. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost. I highly recommend them.
By cutting your springs, you will be in need of a new alignment. Some cars are worse than others, but you certainly do not want to burn through tires.
When cutting stock springs, it is usually recommended only cutting 1/4 coil on some models and 1/2 coil (at a time) on other models that weigh more due to higher spring rates.
You got lucky on cutting a full coil the first time, but it still looks like you could go a little more by the pics, but be careful. The spring rate is not stiff enough to go any further without upgrading to stout shocks & struts, you are probably questionable now.
I would recommend Koni yellows, they are designed for such usage, plus they are easily adjustable to fine tune your ride.
Think of it like braking distance. Your OEM brake work well if you don't need to stop in a much shorter distance, but higher end brake systems will have no problem. It is similar that you are requiring the shocks & struts to stop a full load, but in a much shorter distance.
So by shortening the springs, you will be grossly over taxing normal/average shocks & struts. You will be into the jounce bumpers too easily and too often. You will have to be very careful when driving on bumpy surfaces, not recommended for a DD.
One more issue:
I see lots of people deleting the spring isolators on their Mustangs. This is not a good idea on a street car.
When a coil spring is compressed the spring metal actually twists on the C/L of the coil metal. This will translate into more road noise but will also gradually grind away at the mating surfaces because the spring is made of much harder steel. These ground surfaces will rust and eventually fail, but it could take many, many miles in some instances. The isolators prevent these issues.
I just upgraded to the M/M C/C plates and those things are a well designed work of art. They look good and work great. A little more expensive, but well worth the cost. I highly recommend them.
By cutting your springs, you will be in need of a new alignment. Some cars are worse than others, but you certainly do not want to burn through tires.
However, I understand the alignment in conjunction with C/C plates as well as the need for new struts and shocks meant for lowered cars...
One problem I do have with your explanation is that from the moderate amount of research I've done, by shortening a linear rate spring you are increasing the spring rate...as long as the coils are not "overheated" so to speak, which will change the characteristics of the metal.
As for the spring perches/seats....I don't really care too much as the car will be getting a Tubular suspension long before the springs have a chance to eat away at the metal dangerously.
07-25-2012, 07:37 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MO/ Born and raised in Louisiana
Posts: 10,696
Didn't cut any springs and bought the springs needed for my drop for 70 bucks (Ebay--Drop ZONE). Had them on my car for 4 yrs and no issues...
Last edited by Soldier GT; 07-25-2012 at 08:00 PM.