Hood Scoop..
#4
As much as I hate fake anything (my first disappointment being a long time ago, a girl in my 7th grade class), and despite those who claim cooler underhood temps and believe in the "ram-air" myth (more about that here), there would be no benefit to "opening up"--and a lot of downside if you regularly drive in the rain unless you arranged some sort of drain channel or whatever.
Here's what the fasteners on the '01+ scoop look like:
Because of that I do not buy the anecdote that it would "fly off" if the front were opened up. If just the front were opened and the hood not cut, then there would be very little static pressure build up to rip it off (read the ram-air myth stuff), and if the hood were cut open as well there would be very very little to none.
Here's what the fasteners on the '01+ scoop look like:
Because of that I do not buy the anecdote that it would "fly off" if the front were opened up. If just the front were opened and the hood not cut, then there would be very little static pressure build up to rip it off (read the ram-air myth stuff), and if the hood were cut open as well there would be very very little to none.
#5
Also, All you would accomplish is a dirty engine. I have read people have gotten their COP's wet from doing this causing issues in the rain. I hate fake scoops myself...my solution: Ill be replacing the hood in the future.
#6
I wouldn't advise it. the previous owner thought that was a good idea and cut a giant hole in the hood, he even drilled out the little holes in the honeycomb.
the only thing i wound up with were flooded plug wells if it rained really heavy. I had to use duct tape as a quick fix but somebody took care of that problem when they backed into me so its all good now
the only thing i wound up with were flooded plug wells if it rained really heavy. I had to use duct tape as a quick fix but somebody took care of that problem when they backed into me so its all good now
#8
Interesting read on ram air.. i seen a mustang at the show today that had been opened up and hole threw the hood and they did a nice job as to look factory..
If ram-air doesn't work as to say then how do you feel about cold air as i remember reading years ago how the uses of dry ice packs in your air pickup would drop some off your ET's as this was known around the Buick GN days of the mid 80's.
If ram-air doesn't work as to say then how do you feel about cold air as i remember reading years ago how the uses of dry ice packs in your air pickup would drop some off your ET's as this was known around the Buick GN days of the mid 80's.
#9
Supplying an engine with cooler air¹ is always beneficial, that is why nearly every modern automobile has some form of ducted intake to draw air from someplace other than on top of the engine, under the hood...
But even back in the 70's they made some sort of attempt to pull in cooler air:
That said, the value of an aftermarket cooler air intake in practical situations is overplayed, and often accompanied by the assertion that each 10°F decrease nets 1.0% more power². While this is an acceptable rule of thumb, the aftermarket unit would have to supply air cooler than does the stock intake for there to be any gain. And as the stock intake is a "CAI" and a pretty good one at that, there is nothing the aftermarket can provide that could further reduce the intake air temperature.
Hence they cannot provide any gain, which is why they don't. Those that are just sections of straight-wall pipe can even cost you power due to the development of standing waves at certain engine speeds as the straight pips resonates with the intake air pulse frequency.
So there is how I feel about "cold" air--gotta run as the "honey-do" list for today is pretty full...
==============================================
¹ - All there is is heat, less heat, and no heat (aka absolute zero--0°K, -273°C or -459°F). Therefore there is no such thing as a "cold air intake", or for that matter "cold air", or even "cold" itself. You cannot cool something by adding cold, it can only be done by removing heat.
What we refer to as "cold air" is actually air that is cooler than air at some higher temperature, this may sound like a silly differentiation however it is an important element of understanding thermodynamics--which is after all one of the fundamentals of what makes our engines run at all.
² - The "10°F decrease nets 1.0% more power" rule of thumb is often misstated as "10°F decrease nets 1.0 HP more". Which is just plain silly, why would a 500 HP engine gain the same 1 HP as a 100 HP engine?
But even back in the 70's they made some sort of attempt to pull in cooler air:
That said, the value of an aftermarket cooler air intake in practical situations is overplayed, and often accompanied by the assertion that each 10°F decrease nets 1.0% more power². While this is an acceptable rule of thumb, the aftermarket unit would have to supply air cooler than does the stock intake for there to be any gain. And as the stock intake is a "CAI" and a pretty good one at that, there is nothing the aftermarket can provide that could further reduce the intake air temperature.
Hence they cannot provide any gain, which is why they don't. Those that are just sections of straight-wall pipe can even cost you power due to the development of standing waves at certain engine speeds as the straight pips resonates with the intake air pulse frequency.
So there is how I feel about "cold" air--gotta run as the "honey-do" list for today is pretty full...
==============================================
¹ - All there is is heat, less heat, and no heat (aka absolute zero--0°K, -273°C or -459°F). Therefore there is no such thing as a "cold air intake", or for that matter "cold air", or even "cold" itself. You cannot cool something by adding cold, it can only be done by removing heat.
What we refer to as "cold air" is actually air that is cooler than air at some higher temperature, this may sound like a silly differentiation however it is an important element of understanding thermodynamics--which is after all one of the fundamentals of what makes our engines run at all.
² - The "10°F decrease nets 1.0% more power" rule of thumb is often misstated as "10°F decrease nets 1.0 HP more". Which is just plain silly, why would a 500 HP engine gain the same 1 HP as a 100 HP engine?
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